mark poulson

I don't know if cavitation is the reason for the holes, but I do know that water passing over a badly reamed copper pipe end will cause the chlorine dissolved in the water to precipitate out as a gas, and that gas will eat away at the copper pipe, eventually causing a leak. That water isn't passing the badly reamed pipe at much speed, so maybe those holes in the blades do cause cavitation.

I think Frank did the original locking pin alteration to an injector. Maybe he can chime in.

Could it be that when you have the rod pointed at the lure it creates a lower angle of the line to lure contact, while to the side straight out is making a shallower angle of attack, because the rod tip is higher? I know this can affect how deep the lure runs, but I don't know why this would affect how the lure swims. It's the only difference I can figure out between the two retrieves.

I couldn't open the TU site at all yesterday. Was there some kind of site maintenance?

It seems to have cleared up on it's own. Probably just a 24 hour bug.

I think the holes are to let you retrieve it a little faster without the bait rising to the surface. That's also why the tip of some blades are bent.

Sprinker and Booyah solve the problem of getting movement in a two piece lure with a boot tail by attaching the boot tail with a swivel: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Booyah_Toad_Runner_Frogs/descpage-BYTRF.html

According to my family I'm already enough of a jerk. Hahaha

That isn't a boot tail, it's a Huddleston-like swim tail which creates vortices as water passes the sides and causes a gentle side-to-side swimming action.

Seriously, is there some set amount per day?

Getting? Hahaha

I have been trying to add a "like" to people's comments, and I get this message. Is the now a big mouth filter, or something? Sorry, you cannot add any more reactions today. OK

Dave, I love it when you explain things this way. It makes sense.

If I were going to try and store some for later, I'd leave the core shot wire in the baits while storing them.

I am guessing that the hardener is the stuff that comes out of suspension and packs at the bottom, since the unmixed stuff is so soft. Maybe the finesse floating formula needs to cooked in a different way. I'd contact Dead On Plastics and ask them.

I tried it, but I had to keep the amount of glo powder so low it took too many coats to get a good glow. Too much powder and it would clog my .35 tip. It's just too easy to add as much as I like to transparent base and brush it on.

Me, too.

I have made two piece hard baits, and the only way I found to get good action in them is to add a lip. Otherwise, I would keep the forward facing V, nested into a concave V rear face of the front section, and eliminate the boot tail completely. The two lure sections will swim in an S shaped glide bait action. In your case, the boot tail is dampening the action, like a wind sock, not enhancing it. If you want more action with no lip, make a three piece bait, with no weight in the tail section and a looser rear joint. It will flap like a flag in the wind on a fast retrieve. But keep the tail thin, with a simple vertical design. You don't need the tail to impart action in the bait, you want it to be able to move freely once the action has been passed on down to it by the two previous sections. Think Dave's vortices, passing along the sides of the bait, and really activating the tail section.

You can thin an epoxy slightly, without affecting its characteristics, other than it's film thickness, if you make sure to thoroughly mix the two separate parts before you add the denatured alcohol to thin it. The alcohol will bond with any unmixed components and prevent the epoxy from setting. If you add more alcohol, it will become a penetrating sealer, but it won't work as a strong top coat. I got this advice from a tech at Etex.

I used a cut off round toothpick to make these trout specks.

I wonder if you can cast a really stout crane swivel with that mold, so you can have a swiveled hook hanger.

I spray my injector inside between injections with spray PAM, and the O rings are still good after more than 5 years.

For the last couple of days this website has been loading slowly. I tried both Google Chrome and Firefox, and it is the same. Did you guys change something that I missed?

I use lead wire for my ballast in my PVC swimbaits, either 1/4" solid for bigger baits, or 3/16" solid for thinner baits. I use premade belly weights with hook hangers from Lurepartsonline for most of my cranks. They are so convenient, and work really well. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Plug-Belly-Weight-Inserts

Again, that looks ideal for multi-mold pours. Good working height, good clamping pressure, adjustable, and very stable. The last thing I want is a tippy mold while I'm pouring. Right now, I use a woodworking vise clamped to the end of my pouring bench. It works for me, because I only inject a couple of molds at a time, but your setup looks really good.