mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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I give my clear blanks a quick dip in acetone to clean the surface and make it ready for paint. Then I just start with very light coat of my Createx white base, to get a good bond, and proceed from there. Heat set after each coat. Quick is important, since acetone seems to be a solvent for most lure plastics, and their glues. Do a test first to be sure it doesn't cloud up the lure blank. That's not a problem if you're doing an opaque paint scheme anyway, but you don't want to cloud up the bills. I made that mistake with a repaint of a DT 10 Rapala, and it now has a milky white bill. Grrrr....
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I would google Wildlife Paints, and see what they have available.
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Dave, Every time I see your duplicater I am reminded of your genius. Do you have a vacuum fitting at the bottom of the machine? That saw must generate a ton of sawdust.
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But making and fishing new lures is such fun! Between hardbaits and plastics, I have enough projects to insure poverty for the foreseeable future.
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Pete, Up until Kevin VanDam came along and began his total domination of professional bass fishing here in the US, Rick Clunn was considered to be the best, or one of the best, bass fishermen alive. He still competes on the pro circut, but Kevin is just in another league than anyone else fishing today. Clunn has been described as a Zen fisherman, camping at tournament sites to be more in touch with the environment at the tourney, and he helped develop the Lucky Craft crankbait series that bear his name. The RC in RC 1.5 stands for Rick Clunn. I fish with a guy who was the original big tube (Tora Tube) fisherman. He actually took a salt water tube, and adapted it to bass fishing. He still throws the original Gizit tubes, and still gets bit, so there's probably a lot of truth is what you said. We all probably get caught up in the latest and greatest, the new bait, the new technique, and forget what worked for us in the past. I know Texas rigged and split shot worms still catch fish here, and those techniques have been around forever. I always have either a Texas rig or a split shot tied on whenever I go fishing.
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Nice looking bait. How did you make the scales? -
woodenfeather, I use the brush on crazy glue. I drill a pilot hole that's just a little larger than the shaft under the threads, run the screw eyes in to cut the threads into the PVC, run them back out and coat the threads and shaft with crazy glue, and run them back in. The crazy glue does stay on the threads enough to kind of reinforce the threads in the hole, and there is a slight build up where the eye meets the bait that I use to lock them in place, so they can't unscrew. Other than that, the PVC is strong enough to hold hardware. I've epoxied stuff into it in the past, like ballast and even hook hangers with the weight already poured around them. The PVC is strong enough that I've caught fish on the rear hook of my 4 piece swimbaits, which are hinged with sst screw eyes and pins, and never had a problem or failure. I did move up a size for my pilot holes when one of my baits that split after I smashed it four times against a concrete pier (Doh!!!!) spit along the screw eye hinge line. I had just stuck a 3lber under the pier, and I kept trying to side arm the lure back under it, but my casting skills failed me. Grrr.... My buddy thought it was hysterical, and said my pattern for the day was concrete 4' above the water. But it failed because I had originally made it to fish with no bill, and had put a rattle in a through hole between the eyes. When I added a bill to get it to swim better, that made the nose, where the line tie, rattle, and bill were all in the same small area, very weak. So all I got back was half the front portion, with the screw eye line tie still attached. I found another piece of the front of the bait floating, and saw how the section had cleaved along the line of the hinge screw eyes. So that's when I went up slightly in my pilot bit size. When I told my younger daughter what had happened, she said, "Dad, why did you keep throwing your lure into the concrete pier?" Damn kids! -
Just stay upwind. -
Ben, If you were as old as me, you'd be in a hurry, too.
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John, I don't think epoxy is suited to casting hollow body lures. Many years ago I tried to pour a chisel handle out of D2T, and found out quickly that it is brittle if it's thicker than a glue joint. Now the formula may have changed in the 30+ years since I first tried to use it that way, but it is still a glue, first and foremost. It is hard and strong, but it is brittle if it's unsupported. That's why I stopped using it for a top coat on my jointed wood lures.
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Husky, Just giving back a little compared to what I've received from this site and it's members, like you. As for a photo finish over foil, I am just barely able to post the pics. Photo finish over foil is a long way off for me, unless one of my kids helps me bigtime. Mark -
I don't think that's the same stuff. You need silcone sealer, not siliconized caulking. The original was G.E. Clearseal, and it was developed by G.E. for NASA, for the space program in the '60s.
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I just want to say thank you again for a great tip, and a great tool. I wear a leather glove on my left hand to hold the bottom of the cup, and use my right hand to pinch the side to make a small pour nozzle, and to guide the plastic. The silicone keeps the plastic hot so much longer, I I injected 10 flick shake worms and was able to hand pour 20 4" worms from the same batch, without reheating. The best I could do before, with pyrex and metal pouring cups, was eight without reheating. The difference is night and day. You have made my plastic pouring so much easier and faster. Hats off to you.
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I just posted a couple of pictures in the Hardbaits gallery of the RC 2.5 copies that I made and test swam yesterday, and painted and topcoated with three dip coats today. They are made from the white AZEK PVC Decking. I also posted some pics of crackle craws I repainted following Gunnie's and Ben's directions. Thanks again for all the help.
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There are several websites listed earlier in this thread.
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I mixed Createx pearl white and transparent violet, in a 30 to 1 mix ratio, and I was amazed at how much the one drop of violet colored the pearl. But when I sprayed it over a pearl white base, it was very subtle. I like the results. Thanks for the new technique.
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Use multiple thin coats, heat set with a hair dryer between coats, and you should be fine.
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Another view of the same baits.
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These are made from AZEK PVC white decking. They all weigh 21 grams. Createx paints, some Wildlife paints, sharpies, SC 9000
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This is a repaint of a DD 22 -
I repainted some lures, using Createx for a base coat, Elmer's glue as a crackle medium, and Createx over that while it was still wet. -
Azek Pvc Cranks, Made One Day And Fished The Next
mark poulson replied to mark poulson's topic in Hard Baits
Matt, I was surprised that the white AZEK is even more buoyant than the brown. Must have something to do with the type of PVC they use when they make it. I understand it's made from waste from the manuf. of other PVC products, and some kind of cellulose fibers. I've never used the trim board, so I don't know how buoyant it is in relation to AZEK. -
Ben, What did you make the lip out of, lexan? -
Azek Pvc Cranks, Made One Day And Fished The Next
mark poulson replied to mark poulson's topic in Hard Baits
I made three RC 2.5 copies yesterday afternoon, and took them up to the local pond for a test swim. They swim great. Because I use Plano dividers for my bills, I was able to tune the bills on two of them to get them to run straight right there at the pond. The third one didn't need anything. I used some white AZEK decking for them, because it is even more buoyant than the brown. The lures wound up weighing 21 grams, with 3 grams of lead between the front hook hanger and the bill. They run down to 5-6', and don't roll at high speeds. They have no rattles, so they will be more like the old balsa baits I used to throw a lot. I post this stuff because I'm just amazed at how easy the PVC decking makes luremaking, and I think it's important to share whatever I've learned. And I need to say thank you to all of you guys here at TU. Everything I know about making lures I learned here. So thank you one and all! -
I just bought an LC RTV open pour 5" swimbait mold. Is there any way I can keep the top from cupping as it cools, or is this just the nature of the beast?
