mark poulson

Hahaha....genius. My kids say I'm half way to being a genieass....you pick the half. Seriously, that's very nice of you to say. I've just lived long enough, and worked with my hands long enough, to have seen a lot of stuff, and so I have a big library to choose from. And I learn something new here every day. The allen head set screws I use are readily available at my lumber yard. If the rust issue becomes a real problem, I'll get some sst threaded stock, and cut a slot in one end, as you suggested. Good idea. I use PVC, so water intrusion isn't an issue, and the set screw cuts it's own threads in my pilot hole. I probably exaggerated the rust issue. Once I find the right position for the set screw, I'll just bondo the hole closed, and it will seal the set screw in permanently.

I think Dave hit it on the head. Start with flat stock, and turn the curves onto it. Centering a rectangular blank is easy, and it will be much easier to get a symetrical lure that way.

Tackle Tour has begun a lure dissection series: http://www.tackletour.com/ It's not too far along, so there aren't too many entrys yet, but it's a start.

Good ideas. I'll keep my eye out for something like that.

It may be that the cold temperatures prevent them from offgassing all the solvents before you dip, and those solvents are brought back up to the surface by the dipping process. Try hitting the frogs with a hair dryer a couple of times before you dip.

Steve, That's a neat idea, but your mold method is something I'm totally unfamiliar with, so I don't have a clue how to help you. I'm glad Frank chimed in. Good luck.

After seeing the crackle finish that Gunnie and Ben put on their cranks, and seeing the video on the link Gunnie sent me, I tried to do a blue craw pattern on a crank today. The results are in the gallery. Short story long, it worked. I'm sure it will get easier the more I do it. But it is really not that hard. Of course, getting it to look like their crackle finish will take me some time, but I am really happy to have another technique to use. So thanks to both of you. I hope these are the links. If not, they're in the hardbait gallery. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/media/1296680746/med_gallery_14932_8_18483.jpg http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/media/1296680746/med_gallery_14932_8_21975.jpg

Steve, I see there have been a lot of people looking at your post, but no answers so far. If the others are like me, they need to see you mold, and learn what type of plastic you're using, in order to try and help. This is not to copy you, it's to understand your process better, so we can actually help, instead of fumbling around and suggesting the same things you've already tried. Are your mice solid pours, or hollow, like the original Snag Proof-type frogs?

Are the filters on that mask replaceable, and how long do they last, typically? I would store the mask in a plastic bag.

Dave, Thanks for that explanation. I actually understood it! Not the math, but the concept. As you know, I'm more of a "do it and see if it works" builder, with a heavy dose of "copy what already works". But I am trying to make my cranks hunt, and I'm hoping you can help me. In my experience, raising the ballast in a crank can make a crank "hunt" because it's right on the edge of instability. I've toyed with using a threaded set screw to use as an adjustable weight, moving it up and down with an allen wrench, but the screws rust and sieze up too quickly. Have you found a formula or method of achieving the instability point, so I can back off from it just a hair and have a hunting lure? Mark

It was Gone Froggin. Thanks again.

Walk the dog lures are slightly tail heavy, with the center of gravity just past the center point of the lure. The bigger ones sit almost horizontal, with 1/3 of the head section out of the water. At least, that's how I weight my 6-8" walking baits. And my Pupfish knockoffs, which are 8-10" (which is, I think, Musy size) are weighted the same. The smaller the walking bait, the deeper the tail can sit in the water, since there is less lure inertia to overcome to get a small lure up and walking. A smaller lure that sits in the more horizontal attitude will glide like a punker or a Pupfish, as well as walking like a spook or sammie. But it won't be as easy to walk. Having the center of gravity past the center of the lure toward the tail helps the back of the lure want to keep moving on the pause more than the front, which gets the lure turning sideways. Then each successive stroke move the head forward and swings the tail around to the other side. I float test my walking lures in a bucket of water, and look for the tail down as an indicater of proper ballasting. If the lure floats that way, and I've shaped it properly, I know it will walk without test driving it on the lake, and I can go on and paint and finish it.

I am using the Mustad Triple grip short shank hooks now, and love them. I wish they made them in bigger sizes. With the short shank I can use bigger hooks on my cranks without fouling, they seem to make less hook rash, and I think the inward facing points keep the fish on better.

Or cut it and fold the end closed, and smooth it with JB Weld. You can get any shape on the end you want, and you can do a bunch of different shapes.

+1 Stuff happens. Product on shelves can get overlooked, and sit a lot longer than it is supposed to, or it may have had a bad seal, and dried out. Either way, they will take care of you if you contact them directly.

Well, my silicone cup came yesterday, and I poured some 4" flukes today. What a difference! The plastic took a little longer to heat, but it stayed pourable a lot longer. I wound up having to wear a glove because the cup does get hot, but I was able to pour directly from the cup instead of using separate pouring cups. I don't have as much control as with the metal pouring cups, but I think it may just be a learning curve deal. All in all, I'm thrilled. Thanks to whoever posted the link to the Ebay store.

Try using 80 grit sand paper after you do the score lines, parallel to the lines. It gives the lexan even more bite for paint. If you sand it after you do your first paint in the score lines, you might be able to add some contrasting colors. I do that with sharpies.