mark poulson

I always thin whatever I'm shooting until it's like skim milk. I can shoot most Createx transparents straight, but I have to thin their opaques and fluorescents. I use their 4011 to thin their paint.

I bet they'd work on both trout and salmon. Those fish eat other fish, bigtime.

That thing is so big it made my monitor sag! Hahaha

Thanks. Doh!!! Hahaha

I don't understand what a 1k clear coat is. What does the k stand for?

That is a neat idea!

I get my wire from Lurepartsonline: https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Looped-End-Wire-Shafts I use the .051" wire for bass lures. For musky, I'd use at least the .062" wire. From what I've seen from folks catching muskies on the internet, even that might be too light.

I found that the joint on my glide baits needed to be tighter than for my swimbaits. I also found, with help from everyone here at TU, that having the two sections fall horizontally, and at the same rate, eliminates friction in the hinge joint, so my baits glide more easily. Here's a picture:

I found this on the internet: https://epoxycraft.com/westsystem/amine-blush-what-you-need-to-know/

I'm considering it.

I brush my transparent base/fine glitter mix onto my painted baits, so I can control where it goes.

I began building my own lures by copying a successful commercial bait that I liked, but building mine out of PVC. There were challenges in using different material, but I learned the basic relationships between lip angle and size, line tie location, and how a bait floats at rest in relation to its intended swimming depth (angle of attack). I would suggest you not be afraid to try that, too.

Better late than never!

You're probably right, but it looks like it would be fun to build/

Yeah, and doable.

I am just a hobby builder/painter, so I can be more picky than people who are buying to repaint and sell. Problems with knock off plastic blanks, for me, have included leaks at hook hangers, cracked bills, and blanks that were supposed to float that sank. I think the quality control for commercial baits is better, so there is a much better chance their baits will work, right of the package. Some plastic blank suppliers have better quality control, some worse. So it's more of a crap shot if you buy from a supplier who doesn't have good quality control, and some have a higher percentage of blanks with problems. You won't get that with commercial baits. Their blanks are pretty close to 100% good.

Check this out: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Chasebaits_PropDuster_Glider_Swimbait/descpage-CBPD.html

I hope they work out as well for you as they have for me.

I also build my own baits, but I also paint and fish baits from Predator and Dinger. I always have a few of their baits tied on. I am primarily interested in catching fish, and their baits do that better and more consistently than others.

I felt the same way, back in the 60's, when I'd roll my own. Hahaha

For my eyes I also put some runny super glue on a piece of blue painter's tape on my bench, and then use a piece of spinnerbait wire to add a drop to the center of the eye cavity.

Who won the Super Bowl yesterday?

Me, too.

Just remember that the AC1315 will melt if left in contact with a soft plastic lure for more than 30 minutes. I think the softener in the plastic is also a solvent for the AC1315. I keep them separate on my boat's deck. If I want to use a soft plastic worm as a tail on a rat bait I've made and coated with AC1315, I put a layer of clear nail polish around the point of attachment, and it prevents any problems.

I mix my fine glitter into some Createx transparent base, and then brush it on where I want it. Dry with the hair dryer and dip.