mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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I add accents and color with Sharpies.
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You mean even when I'm hip, I'm not? Figures... When I grow up, I'm gonna be young, good looking, rich, and hip!
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Question About Ultracal For Mold Making....
mark poulson replied to SlowFISH's topic in Soft Plastics
It might be simpler to just make some wood boxes for your POP molds, with the sprue hole in the wood. They will last forever, or until you drop one too hard on the garage floor. -
Spike It colors will bleed onto other plastics, at least the chartruese dip. I started using their pens, and they are great.
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So far, I've been using a regular Pyrex 8oz cup, and stirring with a thin screw driver, and haven't had any problems. The microwave I use is small, so I'm wondering if it might also have to do with the power of the microwave. Mine will heat 4oz of Calhoun's plastic to 325 in 2 1/2 minutes, in 1 minutes cycles, with stirring after 2 minutes.
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wnybassman, Is this the stuff you use: http://www.dickblick.com/1/1/8977-2-8-lbs-smooth-oomoo-30-silicone.html
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Do yourself a big favor, and get a hand held digital thermometer, which will let you read the temps remotely. They're cheap, and let you monitor the plastic's temperature. Hand pour temps, for me, are somewhere between 325 and 350. Just remember to stir the plastic before you take it's temp. Microwaves heat from the middle out, so the plastic in th middle of the cup will be hotter than the surface plastic. It's easy to overheat and scortch plastic, and then it turns yellow/brown, and smokes. Not a good thing.
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Those are really nice baits. They say "eat me" bigtime. -
Frank, Women are almost perfect. Their only mistake in life is their husband.
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I Wonder If This Would Work For A Presto Stirrer
mark poulson replied to bryanmc's topic in Soft Plastics
It looks so good, I may buy one, and I don't even own a pot! Seriously, that looks like it would be a lifesaver in the kitchen, too. -
Bluegill that are stunned by bass or stripers often float on their sides on top of the grass, struggling to right themselves. I found a bass floating with a bluegill stuck in it's throat. Both were still alive. The bass kept trying to go down, but couldn't. I thought it might need to be needled, so I netted it. When I saw the bluegill in it's mouth, I pulled the bluegill out and released them both. The bass dove straight down out of sight, but the bluegill struggled on it's side on the surface. I'm sure it got eaten by something before too long.
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I try to stick with fabric paints that are heat set. After heat setting, the paint is waterproof, so the clothes can be washed. If it's labeled fabric paint, and has iron-setting instructions, it should work fine. When in doubt, ask someone on the store's staff.
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I put two coats on, one after the other, using just the tip of the tube as an applicator. When it's set, in about 5 minutes usually, I hit it with my hair dryer to be sure all the solvent is gone, wet sand with 400 grit, and start painting. I don't prime, but start immediately with the airbrush paints. I carry super/crazy glue in the brush-on bottle on my boat, for on the water repairs. It is great to help close cuts and hook punctures that won't stop bleeding, too. Just try not to contaminate the glue brush with blood, or the whole bottle will set up and be wasted.
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Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner For Airbrust Parts
mark poulson replied to skeeterjeff's topic in Hard Baits
+1 Save your money. Break it down every once in a while, soak the parts, blow them off, reassemble, and run some clean water through it. You should be good to go. -
My experience with PVC glue is that it bonds to the PVC by melting the surface slightly. That's why it has such a strong solvent. I'm not sure it would penetrate wood enough to provide a mechanical bond, so peeling might be an issue. Do a test on a piece of wood, and let us know.
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Word that! (Hahaha I've always wanted to say that!) But everything Bob said is true.
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How about a very narrow off angle lip that would dig and turn the lure, but not be enough to keep it running true, so it would oscillate between it's side and it's belly being down. I'm guessing that the water would spill off the bill as soon as the force of the water from moving the lure built up a little, and it wouldn't be able to swim at speed, so it would "blow out" and go back on it's side. Dave, I really appreciate how you step up and do the hard work. Thanks.
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Are any of the unfinished lure bodies you sell made in the USA?
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Why To Go Rich! Congrats On The Pub.
mark poulson replied to MR KNOW IT ALL KIND OF's topic in Hard Baits
+1 Hard work pays off. Way to go! -
I bet you could even make a blending block out of the PVC decking used for had baits. Even Trex, which is too heavy for lures, would probably work.
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I used to rotate Etex for eight hours. Then I could add a second coat, if I wanted to.
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Thermal shock is usually what makes tempered glass like Pyrex fail. That means abrupt cold to hot, or vice versa. If you have heated your plastic/pyrex in a microwave, and then sit it on a hot plate, it's not a problem because the pyrex is already heated. Just don't sit hot pyrex on a cold surface, or it will shatter.
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BobP, That's a great point. There is a big difference between wanting to paint a bait for yourself, and painting them for sale. Any manuf. would be flattered to have you repaint their lure for yourself. Their lawyers would get involved if you're painting knockoffs for sale, and calling them by the original's name.
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Skeeter has a great idea that works for me, too. You can actually stick the post it right onto the lure where you want the line to start, and begin on it, so you have a much better sense of where the line is actually spraying, and how it looks, before you move off the post it onto the lure.
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Does the uv curing process heat the lure?