mark poulson

Once you get the nozzle apart, and cleaned, hand tighten only when you reassemble, and only snug, not cranked down tight. Those are fine threads, and soft metals, so take it slow and easy. Remember, you'll need to take it back apart for cleaning every so often, so hand tightened is plenty.

Great looking lures, and great video! Good luck.

Can you remove the moisture from salt by putting it in a microwave, too?

One of the issues with using water as a thinner is that, at some point, the paint will lose it's film strength, and not cross link properly. Instead, it will be like a layer of stick dust, and be really weak. That's something I learned here on TU. Thanks again to everybody. Using whatever thinner/reducer is made for that particular paint is the best way to insure that the paint will still perform. I typically thin my paints, if I need to, until they are the consistency of milk.

You could try soaking the brush and nozzle in acetone overnight. Then try to unscrew it. Generally speaking, a soaking in acetone will soften any paint that's dried inside the brush. If it's still stuck the next morning, you can try putting a couple of layers of duct tape on the jaws of some small channel locks or pliers, to protect the nozzle, and use them to remove the nozzle. I seriously doubt you'll have much trouble unless you previously cross threaded the nozzle, and then forced it back on. That's what works for me on delicate stuff. Just remember that the reason it's stuck is probably dried paint, so it might not take too much force to break it loose. Take it slow and easy.

Frank, Do any of them sell injectors with locking tips, like your double injector?

Frank, you do make it look easy. Just like Kobe!

Dude, Blaming your mom is just wrong!

Funny how that works. I have broken the bills on lots of Rapala cranks, and so has everyone I know who throws them, but they are still going strong, and are my go-to deep crank.

George, When I clicked on your picture, and it finally loaded, it brought along a couple of spam sites that opened when I closed the picture, and wouldn't let me close them. You probably want to check out you web security.

Pogue, You did an excellent job matching those pait schemes.

Thanks for the heads up.

That's why you have to constantly keep them shaken, or, at least, handle them often.

The nozzle has tiny air holes that can get plugged if you don't clean everytime you finish painting, and even between colors and coats. 99% of the time, that's where I run into problems. Backflushing, by placing my finger over the nozzle and forcing the cleaning solution to bubble up in the cup, with a water/dishwashing liquid solution (two drops in a quart spray bottle of tap water) during the cleaning process helps. Be sure and wipe down the needle each time you do a backflush, and run some clean water through the brush after each cleaning. If I am having problems while I'm painting, I backflush gently with the actual paint, to see if it's just a small clog. Otherwise, I put the paint back into the paint bottle, and use Windex first, and then the water/soap solution, and backflush the heck out of the brush, until it sprays well. Usually it takes once with the Windex, and then several times with the solution. I know Iwata says don't use Windex, or ammonia, to clean your brushes because it damages the chrome, but I've found that I can use it and it helps, if I'm careful to use the water/soap solution and clean water afterward, and wipe any excess off the brush with a rag. Lastly, if I can't get the brush to spray after that, I go to Defcon 5. I disassemble the brush completely, soak everything except the trigger mechanism overnight in acetone, reassemble and backflush with clean acetone, again and again, until I'm tired of doing it. Then I run a couple of bowls full of the water/soap solution through the brush, back flushing with it, too. The Iwata brushes are thoroughbreds. All they need is good cleaning and they perform. Once you develop a cleaning routine, you'll be able to do it in less than a minute, so it will become an automatic part of your painting routine. Having a tupperware full of water next to your painting area, so you can backflush with water after each cleaning, makes the whole process even easier. Good luck

"Go big, or go home"

Very interesting idea. There are several floor care products out there that are acrylic coatings, not waxes. I may have to try one.

Even overspray from Createx can be dangerous near an open flame. Once it dries in the air, it's just a flamable dust. Try to figure out some kind of contained spray area with venting.

Whoever made that video, and the one about being on a Pro Staff, is a genius. They nailed both. Nomad, was it you? If it was....

Let me guess...instead of pints, quarts, and half gallons, your container would come in A, B, C, and D.

Pit, Here goes nothing. I hope it works. The colors are a bit hard to see, but I shot the pictures with a back light so you can see the laminate better. Two of them are with feathers in the middle. Thank you Toadfrog. http://img696.imageshack.us/g/ikafeather1.jpg/ This is the URL of the pictures.

Once you scrap off the drips, what's left should be thin enough to dry hard. Then you can sand it smooth, and redip it, making sure to let it hang vertically so the excess drips off the bottom hook hanger. The next day you should take an exacto knife, and cut around the hook hanger, to remove the thick drip that'll be there. Then let it dry, or hit it with a hair dryer to get it to dry faster.

Dude, you need some serious help with your wardrobe.

Jerry, the site host, just posted a series of pictures on how to do it. I think his stage name is redg8er. Do a site search for his posts.

Very nice!