mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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Thanks ff. The gill she spit up had an almost beige tone to her. The original lure had a dark green back, fading on the shoulders, and a light violet belly. I used Createx light trans brown for the scales, to try and get that effect, and went over it again for the stripes. And some Createx irridescent orange, with trans orange over that, for the throat. I'm not that good with an airbrush, so I did the gill flaps and gill accents with an artist's brush and irridescent turquoise. I'm 62 years old, and that's the first time in my life I ever tried to spell turquoise! -
Man, I love your work!
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I caught a nice bass at Castaic that spit up a 2" bluegill, so I painted up an old Bass Pro crank. Createx, SC9000 -
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That makes perfect sense.
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You can also try using a round rod to mix, instead of a paddle shaped stirrer. It will trap less air.
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I get mine here: http://www.sunshineglass.com/rcol/i-proj/mosaic-access-vent.htm
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I got my Venture Foil here: http://www.sunshineglass.com/rcol/i-proj/mosaic-access-vent.htm It's not cheap, but it is easy to use, and looks and works great.
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Bob, Someone here, probably you, recommended Venture Tape for foiling. I bought some, and it is a breeze to use. Silly easy.
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"Kinda like why the Cubs haven't won the World Series in over a century." Global warming.
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I don't know for sure, but I suspect factories use an automobile-type paint for their chrome. I found that using Target Coatings SC9000 as a top coat doesn't dull the shine on chrome/metalic paints. You have to heat set both the paint and the top coat with a hair dryer on high, and it will work.
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I use both the plastic dividers from Plano boxes, and the clear plastic tops from tubs of guacamole I buy at the market. If you want bristle tails and fins, you can use paint brushes. They come in both natural bristles, and nylon, and, with patience, you can make them work.
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It's fun to have something to contribute.
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Try the hard baits forum, too. Pete/Hazmail lurks there.
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Do a web search for Mann's Tail Dragger, and you should be able to find a picture. Just watch out. I did a search, and my anti-virus found one of the sites that was unsafe. Here's where I found it: www.gameandfishmag.com It's the sixth item down. Basically, it's a spook with a small pointed tail facing down at a 45 degree angle, +-. Doesn't look too hard to make, but I'm sure it will take some testing to come out with the correct ballasting/weight distribution.
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Two bluegills I painted using Createx, Apple Barrel, and Auto Air, and top coated with SC 9000. They've both caught fish, and the finish is holding up fine. -
That is a very unique design. Well done. Does it make as much noise as it looks like it should? -
I think that depends on what kind of lure you're making. A hard plastic lure, or one made of PVC or resin, doesn't need a bullet proof hard coating, since it is already hard enough to stop tooth penetration. But, generally speaking, a softer wood needs a harder top coat for tooth protection, unless it's sealed really well.
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Wild Ass Guess works for me!
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Bending the line tie down makes sense, because it lowers the centerline of the lure, effectively raising the center of gravity.
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Trondak U-40 Ls Supreme High Build Review- Part I
mark poulson replied to Fishwhittler's topic in Hard Baits
If it doesn't yellow, it sounds like the perfect compromise between D2T and Etex, or Flexcoat. -
Maybe you need to heat set the Createx at a higher temp. to get it not to scratch. And maybe try thinner, mutliple coats, so each coat is thoroughly dry. I know, for me, if I get lazy and put on too much paint at one time, it leads to drying problems.
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+1 Please.
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I used to use a small drill bit, and dip the butt in a black paint cap. Now I use a fine black sharpie. I just have to be sure and "heat set" the sharpie with a hair dryer, to be sure all the solvent is gone, before I top coat it.
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Sounds like you have fishing partner. Congrats, Dad!