mark poulson

I've found that any acrylic top coat, whether it is a concrete sealer or Rustoleum's X2 Gloss Acrylic finish, is affected by the softeners in soft plastics. Maybe they are too closely related, chemically. Whatever you find to try, do a test first to make sure it's not affected by soft plastics before you buy a large quantity.

I guess we're all lucky we still work+-.

Bob, you're exactly right when it comes to darker paint schemes, but I don't really notice it on lighter stuff. I'm still using the original Dual Cure Polyester Resin that was designed for surfboard repairs. I only build for myself and a couple of buddies, so I'm not so worried about the cloudy issue. The baits hold up and catch fish.

In the past I used AC1315 concrete sealer for top coating cranks. It works, but you can't let it lie in direct contact with a soft plastic bait for more than 30 minutes. Longer than that, and the softener in the plastic bait will soften and melt the concrete sealer. I would suggest doing a test first with a small test blank, to see if that is true for your concrete sealer. I still fish some of those cranks with concrete sealer top coat. I am just careful not to let them lay against any soft plastic baits.

I use runny CA glue to seal my balsa baits, two coats. Then I sand, paint, and top coat with Solarez. I like the balsa because it is so light and buoyant, but it is still not as durable, even after two coats of the CA glue, so I top coat with Solarez, for additional hardness.

When I first tried the Minwax wood hardener, I tried soaking my wood bait overnight, to really let it penetrate. It worked too well. The hardener bubbled out of the end grain every time I hit it with the hair dryer for a week! I settled on just a quick dip and hang, and that worked much better.

Maybe he could make the mold with the larger tails, and also make an insert to let you cut down to the smaller tails.

That is so nice!

I ordered #5 and #6. I'll use them for 1/2 tandem spinnerbaits, where I'm using a big Indiana (#5 or #6) on a swivel now. I love the thump and flash I get with the big Indiana, especially in the tulles. I think it represents a bluegill, because of the bigger, slower vibration. I know they find it, even in the thick stuff, or in low light.

For me, it was so much simpler than boiling, and easier to control.

Since Bait Plastics was so helpful when you bought the clear, why not call/email them and ask for some help. Maybe there's a secret word or handshake you need to use. Seriously, they sound really helpful, so I think it's worth a shot.

I've bent Lexan over a wood form, using a heat gun. Just take your time, or you can scorch the Lexan, and it will discolor and become brittle.

Clever idea! Bub Tosh sells something similar he calls the Nose Job, that goes in front of swimbaits to impart a more erratic action.

I hope you're right. I just ordered some to try. If I don't catch fish, it's all your fault! Hahaha

I subscribed to his You Tube channel (thanks to the link you posted), so, hopefully, I'll get to see and here him more.

I really appreciate you sharing what you've learned. Everything I know about lure making I learned here on TU, from lure makers, like you, who were also willing to share their hard earned knowledge.

Thanks. Let us know if you figure out how to add color and/or texture.

Thank you so much for sharing Dieter's video. I have missed his voice, and his lure making skills.

Thanks. That's really helpful. Have you found anything that will color the mat tails, like a sharpie?

It's been a while since I threw one, but I'm guessing they'd sit pretty level, or slightly tail down, since pulling on the line would make the nose dive a little anyway.

No, I haven't tried yet. If I had stuck a 5 on one, you can bet I'd be all over it, but that hasn't happened yet. The basic shapes are pretty simple, and the hardware is available, so I'm sure it's doable. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Lure-Making/Shop-By-Product-Category/Crankbaits-Plugs-Hardware/Plug-Hardware/Lure-Lips?page=1

It looks to me, just from your pictures, that the wire on the large size left hand side is too short. Since both ends are open, and the right side wire seems to be the right length, it may be that the large size is only meant to be closed on the one side. I would contact LurePartsOnline, and ask them about it.

The only lure I've ever fished with that type of bib is a jitterbug. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/searchresults.html#search=products&searchtext=jitterbug&opt_page=1&opt_sort=alphaAtoZ&opt_perpage=20 I know there are also mid-bait winged lures that walk along the surface on the retrieve. Here's one that I've fished: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Jackall_Pompadour_Walking_Bait/descpage-JPOMP.html There are others on the TW website, but I've never tried to make one. I've caught small bass with them in the spring, but nothing big, so far.

I've found that even the $25 Japanese jerkbaits, which are supposed to suspend, actually sink or rise slowly, depending on water temp, and line type and size, but not fast enough to matter. I've also found it's impossible for me to get a lure to suspend perfectly, so I settle for close. I get it to float really slowly, then paint it and top coat it, and hope the paint/top coat make it suspend in cold tap water in my float testing 5 gallon bucket. Then I can use the type and size of line, and the size of both split rings and treble hooks, to get them to either sink slowly, or float slowly. Worst case scenario, if the lure still floats once I'm finished making and rigging it, I'll add suspend dots/strips to the belly, or a little lead wire to the belly hook shank. But I don't think the fish care if it sinks or rises, as long as it is a really slow movement. Dying baitfish aren't neutrally buoyant, either.

Do you have any pictures of the type of baits you're talking about?