mark poulson

I ordered #5 and #6. I'll use them for 1/2 tandem spinnerbaits, where I'm using a big Indiana (#5 or #6) on a swivel now. I love the thump and flash I get with the big Indiana, especially in the tulles. I think it represents a bluegill, because of the bigger, slower vibration. I know they find it, even in the thick stuff, or in low light.

For me, it was so much simpler than boiling, and easier to control.

Since Bait Plastics was so helpful when you bought the clear, why not call/email them and ask for some help. Maybe there's a secret word or handshake you need to use. Seriously, they sound really helpful, so I think it's worth a shot.

I've bent Lexan over a wood form, using a heat gun. Just take your time, or you can scorch the Lexan, and it will discolor and become brittle.

Clever idea! Bub Tosh sells something similar he calls the Nose Job, that goes in front of swimbaits to impart a more erratic action.

I hope you're right. I just ordered some to try. If I don't catch fish, it's all your fault! Hahaha

I subscribed to his You Tube channel (thanks to the link you posted), so, hopefully, I'll get to see and here him more.

I really appreciate you sharing what you've learned. Everything I know about lure making I learned here on TU, from lure makers, like you, who were also willing to share their hard earned knowledge.

Thanks. Let us know if you figure out how to add color and/or texture.

Thank you so much for sharing Dieter's video. I have missed his voice, and his lure making skills.

Thanks. That's really helpful. Have you found anything that will color the mat tails, like a sharpie?

It's been a while since I threw one, but I'm guessing they'd sit pretty level, or slightly tail down, since pulling on the line would make the nose dive a little anyway.

No, I haven't tried yet. If I had stuck a 5 on one, you can bet I'd be all over it, but that hasn't happened yet. The basic shapes are pretty simple, and the hardware is available, so I'm sure it's doable. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Lure-Making/Shop-By-Product-Category/Crankbaits-Plugs-Hardware/Plug-Hardware/Lure-Lips?page=1

It looks to me, just from your pictures, that the wire on the large size left hand side is too short. Since both ends are open, and the right side wire seems to be the right length, it may be that the large size is only meant to be closed on the one side. I would contact LurePartsOnline, and ask them about it.

The only lure I've ever fished with that type of bib is a jitterbug. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/searchresults.html#search=products&searchtext=jitterbug&opt_page=1&opt_sort=alphaAtoZ&opt_perpage=20 I know there are also mid-bait winged lures that walk along the surface on the retrieve. Here's one that I've fished: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Jackall_Pompadour_Walking_Bait/descpage-JPOMP.html There are others on the TW website, but I've never tried to make one. I've caught small bass with them in the spring, but nothing big, so far.

I've found that even the $25 Japanese jerkbaits, which are supposed to suspend, actually sink or rise slowly, depending on water temp, and line type and size, but not fast enough to matter. I've also found it's impossible for me to get a lure to suspend perfectly, so I settle for close. I get it to float really slowly, then paint it and top coat it, and hope the paint/top coat make it suspend in cold tap water in my float testing 5 gallon bucket. Then I can use the type and size of line, and the size of both split rings and treble hooks, to get them to either sink slowly, or float slowly. Worst case scenario, if the lure still floats once I'm finished making and rigging it, I'll add suspend dots/strips to the belly, or a little lead wire to the belly hook shank. But I don't think the fish care if it sinks or rises, as long as it is a really slow movement. Dying baitfish aren't neutrally buoyant, either.

Do you have any pictures of the type of baits you're talking about?

I'm really interested in using these mats for tails. Where did you buy your silicone placemats, and what brand did you buy?

I don't think what the tail's made from has much influence on hooking a fish, or keeping it hooked. I've used tails from clear margarine tubs for years, sanded to add fin lines and colored with sharpies, and they don't seem to hinder the fish getting the bait. Most fish attack from the bottom or side, and a fish that's big enough to eat a bait from the rear will be big enough to swallow the tail whole. I do think the idea of a colored silicone place mat tail is interesting. I will be checking this out.

Do you have to glue the legos down to a base before you pour the silicone?

I do not, but I'm sure there are some here who do. Maybe ask in a new thread with Trigger Type Airbrushes as the title/topic. You can also Google your question, and someone will have an answer for you.

Happy to help, if I can. Everything I know about lure making I learned here on TU, from generous members who shared wotj me, so I think sharing that knowledge with others is the least I can do.

Just remember you can use your Campbell Hausfeld compressor to do really fine work if you have an adjustable air pressure regulator, and a good detail airbrush. I'd spend the compressor money on a good Iwata detail airbrush instead.

I've made masters with Sculpey Clay, fired them hard, and then poured silicone around them to make molds. It is something you could do with just one hand.

It's probably a smart idea to start with hand pouring. Like you said, almost everything is cheaper, and you can learn how to handle plastics and pouring without spending a fortune.