mark poulson

I really appreciate you sharing what you've learned. Everything I know about lure making I learned here on TU, from lure makers, like you, who were also willing to share their hard earned knowledge.

Thanks. Let us know if you figure out how to add color and/or texture.

Thank you so much for sharing Dieter's video. I have missed his voice, and his lure making skills.

Thanks. That's really helpful. Have you found anything that will color the mat tails, like a sharpie?

It's been a while since I threw one, but I'm guessing they'd sit pretty level, or slightly tail down, since pulling on the line would make the nose dive a little anyway.

No, I haven't tried yet. If I had stuck a 5 on one, you can bet I'd be all over it, but that hasn't happened yet. The basic shapes are pretty simple, and the hardware is available, so I'm sure it's doable. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Lure-Making/Shop-By-Product-Category/Crankbaits-Plugs-Hardware/Plug-Hardware/Lure-Lips?page=1

It looks to me, just from your pictures, that the wire on the large size left hand side is too short. Since both ends are open, and the right side wire seems to be the right length, it may be that the large size is only meant to be closed on the one side. I would contact LurePartsOnline, and ask them about it.

The only lure I've ever fished with that type of bib is a jitterbug. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/searchresults.html#search=products&searchtext=jitterbug&opt_page=1&opt_sort=alphaAtoZ&opt_perpage=20 I know there are also mid-bait winged lures that walk along the surface on the retrieve. Here's one that I've fished: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Jackall_Pompadour_Walking_Bait/descpage-JPOMP.html There are others on the TW website, but I've never tried to make one. I've caught small bass with them in the spring, but nothing big, so far.

I've found that even the $25 Japanese jerkbaits, which are supposed to suspend, actually sink or rise slowly, depending on water temp, and line type and size, but not fast enough to matter. I've also found it's impossible for me to get a lure to suspend perfectly, so I settle for close. I get it to float really slowly, then paint it and top coat it, and hope the paint/top coat make it suspend in cold tap water in my float testing 5 gallon bucket. Then I can use the type and size of line, and the size of both split rings and treble hooks, to get them to either sink slowly, or float slowly. Worst case scenario, if the lure still floats once I'm finished making and rigging it, I'll add suspend dots/strips to the belly, or a little lead wire to the belly hook shank. But I don't think the fish care if it sinks or rises, as long as it is a really slow movement. Dying baitfish aren't neutrally buoyant, either.

Do you have any pictures of the type of baits you're talking about?

I'm really interested in using these mats for tails. Where did you buy your silicone placemats, and what brand did you buy?

I don't think what the tail's made from has much influence on hooking a fish, or keeping it hooked. I've used tails from clear margarine tubs for years, sanded to add fin lines and colored with sharpies, and they don't seem to hinder the fish getting the bait. Most fish attack from the bottom or side, and a fish that's big enough to eat a bait from the rear will be big enough to swallow the tail whole. I do think the idea of a colored silicone place mat tail is interesting. I will be checking this out.

Do you have to glue the legos down to a base before you pour the silicone?

I do not, but I'm sure there are some here who do. Maybe ask in a new thread with Trigger Type Airbrushes as the title/topic. You can also Google your question, and someone will have an answer for you.

Happy to help, if I can. Everything I know about lure making I learned here on TU, from generous members who shared wotj me, so I think sharing that knowledge with others is the least I can do.

Just remember you can use your Campbell Hausfeld compressor to do really fine work if you have an adjustable air pressure regulator, and a good detail airbrush. I'd spend the compressor money on a good Iwata detail airbrush instead.

I've made masters with Sculpey Clay, fired them hard, and then poured silicone around them to make molds. It is something you could do with just one hand.

It's probably a smart idea to start with hand pouring. Like you said, almost everything is cheaper, and you can learn how to handle plastics and pouring without spending a fortune.

Really nice!

That's great. He is an amazing bait maker, so take everything he says to heart.

Each mold is different, and how each person pours is different, so this is just what I do, as a hobby pourer. I use the 6 oz injector. I have a smaller one, but it doesn't hold enough plastic, and I've found that the 6 oz will fill two Do-It ES ripper, 5" senko, or 3" grub molds, before the plastic gets too cool to inject. Sometimes one cavity won't fill all the way. I also know I can fill either three 7" senko cavities, or five 6" senko cavities, or six creature bait cavities. Those are home made POP molds. I know there are folks here who have figured out how to heat their injectors so the plastic doesn't cool as quickly, but I haven't. I have hand pour molds from Lurecraft, and I use them, too. I would say the 6 oz injector is a good starter. If you eventually find you need a bigger one, you can always get another 6 oz and the brackets and blending block that is used to do laminates. There is no rule against filling both injectors with the same color, so you wind up with a 12 oz capacity, plus you can make some really cool laminates, if you want.

When I used to epoxy my jointed swimbaits, I'd suspend them between the two wheels of my turner and then brush on the epoxy.

The guy who made that video, Frank, is a member here. Maybe he'll see this and be able to help you.

I found this site that might help: https://sciencing.com/make-sea-water-home-6368912.html

Check this out: