mark poulson

KF, I hate you. The last time I saw the floor of my garage shop was 28 years ago, when I bought the house. You might want to invest in some drawers with full extension glides for your paints, so you don't have to unload the front stuff to get to the back. Mark

Great promo. I'm envious of you abilities. You should name the film, "Shake Your Booty".

The last batch of screw eyes I bought was from Cabela's, at $12/100. Let us know it you find a better volume deal. Good luck.

Speaking stricktly as a fierman, not a bait maker, I think the extra texture is a good thing. It will give you baits an entirely different hydralic profile in the water. Send me the ones you think are too rough.

I just picked up a piece of the brown decking, to see if the white material was, indeed, trim board. The brown stuff has the same coarse texture inside, and finishes out with voids, too. I think they figured out they could use less of the PVC in the manuf. process, and still make it work for decking. I just made two 10" QT trouts out of the last piece of the old stuff I had, and two from the new. I'm going out to the garage to redip the new ones, since they look like they have teenage acne. I'm going to make a run to the lumber yard where I got the first AZEK, to see if they have any of the original stuff left. Fingers crossed.

You really need to use a respirator when you spray.

You might also try Minwax Wood Hardener. It's designed to penetrate, and seal out water. Just be sure to let it dry for at least 24 hours before you prime it.

Kelp Kritter, I put my pins back in before I top coat, so the holes are semi-closed. Maek sure you pin hole is tight, as in drill undersized, and then use a piece of the pin wire to ream out the hole to size. I leave the pins in when I paint, but don't push them all the way in, so the top of the pins always has some paint on it when I do finally assemble the lure. If I have a pin that's loose, I bend the top 1/4" a little, so it has to be force into the hole. I use bicycle spokes, and .072 and .092 screw eyes for my hinges. BobP, One of the things using the hinge pin system does is move the pivot point back into the front of each section, which seems to enhance the swimming action at lower speeds. For me, screw eyes are easier to adjust for gap, and faster than having to epoxy set twist wire. Also, I'm able to use heavier guage wire for both parts of the hinges. I started out using twisted sst wire, but moved to the screw eye/hinge pin system, and am much happier with the results.

They used to make the same kind of thing for drafting, an erasure guard, out of thin stainless steel. You should be able to find one at a stationary store, like Staples or Office Depot.

Do you mean with an angled front face, to help the lure dive without a bill, like a Slammer?

They're posted. I hope they're clear. I happened to have a lure on my desk with a T-ed treble, so that's what I photographed.

If you hold the treble by the eye, with the backs of the hooks facing toward you, like they were a bouquet of flowers, and you were going to smell them, you will see the three hooks radiating out from the middle spaced equally. Now, if you grab two of those hooks by the bend (with pliers) and bend them away from each other, you'll reach a point when the bouquet of hooks, again looking down on it, will look like a T, with the top of the T formed by the two hooks which have been bent parallel, but opposite. I'll post two pictures in the gallery now. Give me 5 minutes.