mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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Here are the three 5" gliders I made from PVC. They all weigh 30 grams, and walk really well. I made them to have a topwater that I could cast a long way, to hit boiling bass, and these cast like bullets. One is a silver shad with a yellow stripe and irridescent violet over grey back. One is a baby bass. One is a sparkle white over pearl white, for low light/off colored water. I used a black water based sharpie for the gill and mouth lines, and a regular red sharpie for the gills and blood accents, and sprayed over that with Createx clear base, heat set, to keep it from running. I guess I didn't put it on heavy enough over the sparkle white lure, but I kind of like how the red bled. Happy accident. -
Here are the three 5" gliders I made from PVC. They all weigh 30 grams, and walk really well. I made them to have a topwater that I could cast a long way, to hit boiling bass, and these cast like bullets. One is a silver shad with a yellow stripe and irridescent violet over grey back. One is a baby bass. One is a sparkle white over pearl white, for low light/off colored water. I used a black water based sharpie for the gill and mouth lines, and a regular red sharpie for the gills and blood accents, and sprayed over that with Createx clear base, heat set, to keep it from running. I guess I didn't put it on heavy enough over the sparkle white lure, but I kind of like how the red bled. Happy accident. -
Here are the three 5" gliders I made from PVC. They all weigh 30 grams, and walk really well. I made them to have a topwater that I could cast a long way, to hit boiling bass, and these cast like bullets. One is a silver shad with a yellow stripe and irridescent violet over grey back. One is a baby bass. One is a sparkle white over pearl white, for low light/off colored water. I used a black water based sharpie for the gill and mouth lines, and a regular red sharpie for the gills and blood accents, and sprayed over that with Createx clear base, heat set, to keep it from running. I guess I didn't put it on heavy enough over the sparkle white lure, but I kind of like how the red bled. Happy accident. -
?'s about winding checks
mark poulson replied to currituckbasser's topic in Rod & Reel building & repair
Could you form one from Bondo, paint it, and then epoxy it? -
Well, the sunfish swims like a champ! Whoopee!!!!! I'm going to make a couple more this week, in shad and baby bass. The gliders work well, too. I had to trim the Krystal Flash tail on the rainbow a bit to get it to walk well, but now they both work great. Funny how a 1/4" of feather or mylar can affect the bait so much. I had also made a mini punker, a 5" semi-Sammy, on Friday, I wanted a walking bait that was relatively small, but still cast a long way, to hit the boils. I tried it on Sat., with just a white primer on it, and it walks and glides great. So now I've got two more primed, and waiting for paint jobs. One will be a silver shad, one will be a sparkle white, and one will be a baby bass. Pics. as soon as they're painted.
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Well, the sunfish swims like a champ! Whoopee!!!!! I'm going to make a couple more this week, in shad and baby bass. The gliders work well, too. I had to trim the Krystal Flash tail on the rainbow a bit to get it to walk well, but now they both work great. Funny how a 1/4" of feather or mylar can affect the bait so much. I had also made a mini punker, a 5" semi-Sammy, on Friday, I wanted a walking bait that was relatively small, but still cast a long way, to hit the boils. I tried it on Sat., with just a white primer on it, and it walks and glides great. So now I've got two more primed, and waiting for paint jobs. One will be a silver shad, one will be a sparkle white, and one will be a baby bass. Pics. as soon as they're painted.
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Fun! -
Beautiful. I love how you've used the grain. Is the grain pattern consistent in that type of wood, or do you have to search to find the pieces that have it? -
:yay::worship: -
Problems with E-tex and lure rings
mark poulson replied to Crankybaits Custom Lures's topic in Hard Baits
I use a drill bit on the hook hangers, and a piece of sst wire in the line tie, if I'm not planning to use a split ring, and don't want to risk raising a burr with a drill bit. -
They look good! Real nice paint jobs and paint schemes. Good luck. -
They look great! Interesting about going to one treble. Did removeing the other hooks improve the swimming action? The Spro 4" shad has only one treble, and it catches the fire out of the bass, so that should be perfect. -
I use a Badger siphon brush for my undercoating. It has a .5 needle, so it doesn't clog easily, and I can mix up enough Wicked White to coat a few lures before I have to refill the bottle. It's not expensive. Just be sure you retract the needle when you backflush, or you'll stick yourself. For my finished paint schemes, I use an Iwata HP-C, or an Air Pro PS900, which has a MAC (micro air control) valve which makes detailing much easier.
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Sealer and primer do two different things. Sealer makes the lure waterproof/water resistant. Primer makes the paint bond to the lure. Sanding sealer tries to do both, but, with wood lures, a good seal coat, sanded smooth, and then resealed, followed by a good primer, again sanded smooth if needed, is how I would do it. The primer coat doesn't have to be thick. Just enough to cover the lure, so there's a good bonding surface for your paint. In the past, I've made the mistake of over priming, trying to get a completely opaque coat, and the primer has sagged, requiring additional sanding and recoating to get it smooth. Now I just hit the entire lure once lightly, and let it dry. Then paint.
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If you figure out how much ballast you need, you can use egg sinkers or split shot, and pinch or thread them onto your lower wire before you glue up.
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Bob, A tip I got here from a trolling guy is to T your trebles, and you cut hook rash down to almost zero. He fishes for walleye, and said, if he doesn't T his trebles, he will wear right thought a plastic lure in a few days.
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I've been using another urethane. I got the name from another poster on the forum, who said, "I don't want to post it because I don't want to open a can of worms, like which one is best, etc."
I feel the same way. Too many people get way too defensive about which system they use, instead of focusing on what works. Kind of like the great Daiwa/Shimano debates, or which rod is best.
The stuff I use is easy to use, and I store it in a salsa jar, with no worries about drying out. I've heard that DN is very oxygen sensitive. The stuff I'm using isn't. It's a dream.
So far, it needs 72 hours to cure enough that I'm comfortable fishing a lure. I used it on my last glide baits and both the jointed bluegills I posted in the gallery.
I dip three times, two hours apart, and the finish seems to be about as thick as a coat of Etex. the more coats/dips, the longer it takes to get hard.
It is soft enough when cured that hook points can stick it slightly, just like epoxy, but it holds up fine, so far, on the joints when swimming.
I'm about to make some more trout swimbaits, and I plan to give it a try on them.
Let me know how the DN holds up on your lures.
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I've not use DN yet, but I've read that other urethanes take 72-100 hours to cure.
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Thanks guys. I have always shied away from small jointed lures, because it's hard for me to get all the hardware and weighting into small segments. I hope the Delta/Rookie tail and different weighting improves the action of the bluegill. I like how the first one turned 180 on the rip/pause, but it didn't have much action on a straight swim retrieve. Just a gentle S, almost back to back Cs, with the head moving all the way to one side, and then the other, and the tail section following. I think I need to play around with different retrieves and speeds more to figure out how to get the most out of it. In the mean time, Saturday I'll find out how the new bluegill swims. Fingers crossed.
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Very nice! -
I liked the way the white glider worked so much I made two more, a baby bass and a trout. I tied the tails from Krystal Flash, which really shines in low light. I was disappointed how my first 4" two piece bluegill swam, so I made another bluegill, this time with a separate tail, and with all the ballast weighting in the front of the first section. It floats head down, but it should swim better. The tail is from a Plano divider. I'll find out how it swims Saturday, and let you know.
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I liked the way the white glider worked so much I made two more, a baby bass and a trout. I tied the tails from Krystal Flash, which really shines in low light. I was disappointed how my first 4" two piece bluegill swam, so I made another bluegill, this time with a separate tail, and with all the ballast weighting in the front of the first section. It floats head down, but it should swim better. The tail is from a Plano divider. I'll find out how it swims Saturday, and let you know. -
Tim, Thanks for the ideas, and the pics. When I float test and and add ballast, I hang my trebles with screw eyes, and then hang egg sinkers on the hook tines until I get the floatation I want. I never mess with my daughters' hair ties, or they would kill me! Mark
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That's fantastic! Congratulations! One question. Who went into that pike's mouth to get your lure back? -
Great first lure! Looking forward to more.
