mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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It's truly unique. And the paint job is top notch. It should get hammered, for sure. How does it swim? -
I really like the baby bass paint job and skirt choice. That should get hammered in the post spawn. Nice work. -
It looks great. Have you tried it with just the curly tail? I think the body of the grub may be damping down the swimming action. -
Trying to buy or replicate Lucky Craft AYU color
mark poulson replied to CL Rods's topic in Hard Baits
Your wife has a sharp eye! I don't layer, as a rule. Instead, I try to mix it before I shoot it. Apple Barrel sells an opaque mossy green. I actually add a few drops of Createx trans. dark brown to get a little deeper green for my trout backs and shoulders. I thin with Windex or Createx trans base, because the Apple Barrel paint is thick. For an Ayu color, baby bass to me, I do pearl white belly and sides, moss green upper sides, shoulders and back, then use straight trans dark brown on the back, and over the shoulders lightly. I don't know how to get that hue in a truly transparent color, but I'd play around with a trans med green, trans yellow, trans brown, and maybe just a drop of black, if it's still too light. I think avocado when I'm mixing, and then, once I've gotten that color, I darken with the dark trans brown. Let us know what you finally come up with. -
+1
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To get that ghost finish, I scrape the lure down to bare clear, wipe it with acetone to remove the last of the original paint, then hit it with several coats of Wasco irridescent violet. It's almost transparent, and shifts colors, too, when the lure turns, from clear to violet. Then I coat with #99 NYC nail polish, $.99 at Savon, or whatever it's called now, to add some blue/green glitter. Last is a clear coat of epoxy. The epoxy is optional, since the nail polish dries really tough.
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Mart, You may have to reduce it to 640 X 480 in order for it to be posted in the gallery. There's a sticky at the top of the home page that tells how, sort of. I'm a computer idiot, so my youngest daughter had to show me how to resize my pictures in paint, then save them in my documents,so I could browse and find and upload them. -
Jamie, Are there any basics as to shape and weighting? I would be making one that simulates a shad, about 4", and one like a juvenile trout, about 7". I am also thinking about a silver one, for low light conditions. I've looked at the gliders in the gallery, and they don't seem too hard to shape. Of course, nothing is hard until you try it.
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This series of lures, meaning the others I made the same size, shape,and weighting, swim really well. I had to ship this one out before I could swim test it, other than float testing it, but it should be fine. On a really slow retrieve, the bait "tails", that is, the plastic tail is partly above the water, and moves back and forth with the slightest breeze or current. To me it looks like a bone fish or a trout at the surface. I'm hoping it pisses off the pike, or, at least, makes them think "here's an easy meal". I don't know if dead sticking is done for pike, but, if it is, this lure should shine. The belly is a trans. yellow over high gloss white, so it should stand out well. And on a medium or fast retrieve, it swims well. If that's what pike like, they got it! To burn it really fast, you need to put the rod tip into the water to keep it from rolling over, because it's buoyant. Of course, I've never fished for pike, but I understand you need a wire leader for their teeth, and that may keep the nose down enough on a fast retrieve. -
Outstanding! -
Jamie, That's interestiong. I've been thinking of making a sub-surface glider out of PVC. It's buoyant, but not as buoyant as poplar, so it might be a good choice for one. I'll let you know if I get one started, so you can help me with the ballast placement.
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Ha, ha, I doubt that seriously. Unless, of course, some rich person in Milwaukee wants me to come there and build them a house!
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"A bass is a bass". I guess that applies to wood, too. Thanks for the info and tip.
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I would try moving the line tie to the underside of the mouth, like a carp's mouth. That way, the force of the jerk on the line will start the head up, not down. Line tie location is critical on surface gliders, which I make, so it might be on sub surface gliders, which I do not make.
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76gator, Here's where I got mine: Flexcoat 3CC Color-Coded Syringes (Set of 2)
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Sorry, I've never heard of it.
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76gator, I use the Flexcoat 3cc syringes (thanks BorderBass), and have no problems at all. I've read here that some other syringes use silicone as a lubricant, but the Flexcoat syringes are for epoxy, so they have no silicone. I haven't had a problem batch since I started using the Flexcoat syringe system.
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Me too, me too..... Seriously, that sounds like a really fascinating study. Anyone who's ever looked down at a ball of bait in the water has seen how bait fish can become "invisible" just by turning in one direction, and then be blindingly (is that a word?) bright when they turn in another. That's why I try and use Wasco irridescent paint somewhere on all my lures. Makes 'em harder to photograph, but they really turn off and on in the water.
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Gene, Do you have to worry about Case Hardening with a microwave, like you do with a regular kiln? I mean, where the outer layer dries out too fast, and the insides are still wet.
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Yes it will. I use an old 4hp compressor with a 30 gallon tank that I used to use on the jobsite, before I bought an Emglo. I've used pancake compressors, and they work, too, but are noisier. The pressure regulator and water separator are key. And an inline air shut off valve just before the airbrush regulator, so you can do maintenance on your brushes or chaing airbrush hoses without having to drain the entire feed line and tank, or without having to readjust your regulator.
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Thanks Jeep. Do you have yellow perch in your neck of the woods? -
Avat (in Romania) or asp in USA ( i think that is the right name over there)
mark poulson commented on HellRAISER's gallery image in Trophy Room
That sounds and looks like a mini tarpon, except for the mouth! -
Thanks for the kind words. A tip. I bought some of the "invisible" braid and found out, of course, that it's not invisible, just white. So I put it on a sight fishing setup. I had some left over, so I used it to retie my skirts just in front of the rubber band. I do two wraps, pull them tight, tie a square knot, and then do another four wraps and another know. Then I put a drop of crazy glue on the braid, and let it dry. Finally, I clip off the tag ends. Then, when the rubber band breaks from the sun, the skirt is still solidly attached. Once you've done a couple, it goes pretty quickly. I've redone all my spinner bait and chatterbait skirts that way, too, and even added tinsel "tails", like the Strike King Perfect Skirt. The thinner tinsel keeps the chatterbait from rising up on a fast retrieve, so I can burn it lower in the water. column. -
They look good, and the paint jobs are fine. -
Terrific! Nothing beats catching a fish on your own lure. Did you post a picture of the glider in the gallery?