mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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CA Delta, I just uploaded two pictures of my hinges. -
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8" four piece silver/shite trout and smallie
mark poulson commented on mark poulson's gallery image in Hard Baits
I use an Okuma 7'6" med light swimbait rod, and 20lb Bass Pro mono, on a Shimano Cardiff reel. I use the 7'6" rod for casting to the walls, where I want accuracy, and also for my Punker-type gliders, since it's easier for me to work a lure with the 7'6" length. For my floaters, I use the Okuma 8' med. heavy, because I want longer casts. I generally throw the floaters over points, or back into cuts, and let them sit, then twitch, then sit. A really slow retrieve, unless I see a follower, and then I do a rip/pause to try to get them to commit. Paul Bailey, of the Casitas Posse, suggested the reel, and it's a pleasure. $99+-, and they warranty it. The Okuma rods are also in the $100 range, light, and have a good action for me. I'm 5'9", 160 lbs, and I like a rod with a little softer tip, to help make casting easier. These rods still have plenty of back bone to horse in the fish. No playing around with a swimbait fish when it has a 3+ oz lure hanging out of it's mouth. If they get to jump, they have too much leverage with that lure to throw it. The numbers on the back are 100 grams, the weight of the lure, and SS, for slow sink. The water was gin clear everywhere except at where the main channel joins the lake. There it was stirred up by the wind, and had a mud line, so I switched to the silver/white slow sink, and bingo. Gotta love those aggressive smallies. My buddy caught a 12.76lb. largemouth up there the next day. Great weekend. -
Beautiful. -
They look great! You are an artist with a rattle can. If you come to LA, you have a great future as a tagger! As I was looking at your lures, my 14 year old daughter was on her computer next to mine. I asked her what she was doing, and she said she was looking at her friend's art. I told that was what I was doing, too. Made me smile. -
Man, you've been busy! I really like the perch shape. Let us know how the new topcoat works, especially with those toothy pike you catch. -
They all look interesting. Let us know how they work. "Life is like a roll of toilet paper. The closer you get to the end, the faster it goes".
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Happy Birthday!!
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Thanks you Sapper. -
Your paint schemes sure bring those old lures back to life. Good job. -
Here's my first swimbait fish of the year, from Lake Pyramid in SoCal. It's a 3lb smallie. Fun
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Why not try solid bodies with a screw eye/sst hinge pin hinge? I know JR Hopkins has discovered a great hinging method, but this method works, is adjustable, and makes the pins removeable, so you can get the spacing just right on the joints before you paint, or even after, if you want to.
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Etex is a two part epoxy. It is a decoupage epoxy, designed for coating large areas, with some differential movement, so it's more flexible than D2T, which is a glue (thank you Downriver). Because it's more flexible, it takes impacts with rocks better, denting instead of cracking. I think that company also makes a UV protected formula, but I switched to Nu Lustre 55 with UV protection, and am happy. One tip...the harder the material you make your lure from, the better the finish will hold up, since the epoxy isn't stressed as much from impacts or teeth. That's one of the reasons I like AZEK PVC decking.
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Thanks Dave. Everyone comments on you tails. -
Great job! -
Dave, The bristles are actually steel, the same steel as the shank. I was surprised at how little "drift" there is when I use it, especially compared to a drill bit. I do take my time, but it's pretty easy. As for melting, I haven't tried that yet, but it sounds interesting. Just bear in mind that you're working with PVC, a plastic, which generates toxic fumes when burned. Do it outside, or with a respirator.
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I also use PVC, and this is what works for me. I went to a local wood working store, and found a Dremel bit that wood carvers use. It looks like a cylinder, covered in hard bristles. I ground off the bristles on the very end, and kind of rounded over the tip bristles, because, otherwise, the bit tends to dig a deeper hole than I want. I'm sorry, but I don't know the actual name of the dremel bit, but it's used by wood carvers. The advantage to using it, instead of a drill bit, to widen the slots, is that it doesn't tend to grab and drift like a drill bit. You still have to be careful, but it's much more "controlable". I drill a 1/4" hole, centered where I want the slot to go, and then use the dremel and bit to make the slot wider, by gently leaning the bit toward each side. I am not that concerned about too perfect a slot, or too tight a slot. I use D2T to coat the slots and joint faces after I've painted the lures, but before I do the final assembly and epoxy top coat, so I want enough play in the slot to allow for the buildup of epoxy when I coat it.
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Try using a straight edge to get the two wheels parallel. That will insure the best tracking. Then tension the blade, and recheck. The wheels need to be parallel for the blade to track correctly. My blade rides on the outer half of both wheels. The wheels are covered with a rubber "band", a hard rubber wheel covering, that's crowned, so it's higher in the center, and tends to draw the blade inward to the crown.
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Amazing carving skills! -
Thanks John. Practice makes "perfect", or, at least, very similar.
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Thanks guys. I've already taken them swimming, and they swim great. I've sold three so far, and have orders for more. I'm just finishing the last 8 in this series. I made floaters and ROF 10 (1' per second) sinkers. The 7" body limits how much ballast I can add without affecting the swimming action. I try to keep all the ballast in the head. With PVC and heavier .92 screw eyes and bicycle spoke hinge pins, the tail section is just buoyant by itself. I'm afraid that adding too much weight to the second section to get a faster ROF (rate of fall per 10 seconds) might dampen the swimming action too much. There are a lot of other lures for deeper applications, including my 10" QT's.
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You've got a nice looking lineup there. What paint schemes are you going to use? -
I always thought Windex had ammonia in it. Never knew it had silicone. Maybe that's why I get some fish eyes in my epoxy. I'll be coating the lures with pastel fixative from now on before I epoxy.
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Nice. And funny!