mark poulson

I drilled a hole slightly bigger than my glass container in a piece of 2X4, and use that as an anti-tip holder for my glass container.

Ask the moderators if they have it.

You can prime them with Rustoleum Self Etching primer (thank you Cadman), paint them with Createx, and then top coat them with either epoxy or clear nail polish. Or you can find a nail polish that's the right color, and just use that for your paint. A clear top coat will help the paint last until you lose them, or the hooks get too dull to use.

Thanks. I couldn't figure out how you did it, but, then again, you are a magician!

How in the world did you get the wires attached?

Great reference material. Thanks.

I've found a really flat bottom face, a slow fall, and ballast rising above the mid point of the lure (a line from the line tie to the rear hook hangers) were the keys for getting my spybaits to wobble on the slow fall.

Please tell us which epoxy you are using. That may help us help you.

I use a dovetail saw to finish the cuts on my PVC jointed lures, and then clean them up with a drywall knife.

I pick red eyes on faster moving baits, like jerkbaits and spinnerbaits, because it gives them a red flash as they swim by at high speed.

I use sandblasting glass beads https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-LBS-Glass-Bead-Medium-Grit-MIL-SPEC-8-70-100-grit-Sand-Blasting-Abrasive-/111672165459?hash=item1a002e0453:g:VocAAOxydgZTKU6c to get more weight with my senkos, but I've found that they still need salt to get bit. I've found that Kosher salt, with it's bigger crystals, affects the color much less. I add my salt before I heat my raw plastic, because it will cool plastic if it's added afterward, and add my flake before I begin adding my colorant to the heated plastic, because flake will change the finished color. Good luck.

You might try shooting a coat of clear Createx, like transparent base, over the whole bait, heat setting it, and then coating it with your epoxy, using nitril gloves to keep you finger oils off of the bait. Someone here suggested applying the epoxy with a gloved finger, instead of a brush. That would force the epoxy onto the bait with good contact to the surface, may trap less air than brushing might. Last, if you're using Devcon 30 minute, and get bare spots, after it cures out, put some epoxy on just the bare spots, let it cure, sand any irregularities smooth, wipe with alcohol, and then recoat with another batch of epoxy. I seldom use epoxy any more for just these issues.

Once you trace your bait's outline on a rectangular block of wood, including the lip slot, you can use a hand saw, or a hacksaw, to cut the slot before you shape it, so you can cut it straight and at the right angle. I sometimes use a wooden miter box and a small dovetail saw. I clamp the bait to one side of the miter box, with the lip slot aligned with one of the slots in the miter box. Just go slow, and check both sides while you're cutting, to be sure they are even.

Dip them quickly in clean acetone.

Really clever! Good job.

I use a Jorgensen wood jawed clamp.

Is there hard pack at the bottom of the jug? It is white, so it can be hard to see.

I've always mixed them by equal volume, like you get when you use the double syringes.

The sawdust and sanding dust really cling to everything, so I keep a box fan blowing past me and out the door when I'm working with AZEK. Sharp tools are the key. I shape it with an oscillating belt sander, and then with dremel sanding drums.

Here are some on TW: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Punching_Skirts/catpage-PUNCHKIRTS.html

I use ZAP, because I can get it, and their accelerant, in bigger bottles. https://robart.com/collections/zap-glue-zap-cas

I think there is a big difference between a hanging (static?) weight, and a moving (dynamic?) weight, like a fish thrashing and trying get that hook out of it's mouth. I think the thrashing fish generates a lot more load. But, having said that, I still use runny super glue to reinforce the wood around my screw eyes in balsa baits, and I haven't had one fail yet. Of course, this will be the kiss of death, and I'll lose a good fish next time out when the screw eye pulls out! Hahaha

Nice!

I use both the thin and the medium/gap filling glues, and use an accelerator to set the gap filling CA glue when I use it to position/hold hardware (thank you Rayburn Ben).