mark poulson
-
Posts
14,726 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
364
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
TU Classifieds
Glossary
Website Links
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by mark poulson
-
I get mine from www.texaswoodcarvers.com They sell D2T in 9oz. bottles, and ship.
-
What a game!
-
Rod, Dieter just sent me a pm saying the same thing, but I didn't think a single blade would do the trick. I really like how the blade is fared into the body section. Nice work. What do you make the blade from? Is that a trolling lure? Do you think it would work if it was ripped on top like a Wood Chopper? Now you've got me wondering if that wouldn't work for bass....Hmmmmm http://www.tackleunderground.com/pho...milies/hmm.gif -
Those really look good. I don't pour, so I have no idea what's involved in doing laminates, but it can't be easy. Is the one on the bottom a three color deal, or is it just a figment of my imagination? -
Been a while, figured I'd put on a bluegill and golden shiner!!
mark poulson commented on b75nweav's gallery image in Hard Baits
I like them both. You're right up there on my "those I hate because they have mad paint skills" list! -
Nice looking lures. The top one looks like a little froggy. The bottom one looks like a baby bird. Sounds like they both should swim well, and get bit. I'm sorry about the hard water you have to deal with. Keep making lures, and stay warm. -
Pete, Jed just made a great point. Really buoyant wood wants to float, and a section that's taller than wide will want to float on it's side, unless it's weighted. I've actually had the opposite problem with the PVC I've been using. The hook and split ring are enough to keep the tail section vertical. Since I used both pine and poplar before I switched to PVC, I was used to weighting the tail sections with the 1/8oz egg sinkers that are part of my weighted hook hanger system. When I did the same weighting in PVC lures, the tails drooped. You could probably tape some lead to the belly of the tail to see if that stops the rolling. -
Everything holds really well in PVC. I predrill for screw eyes, and they hold great. I use a small bit for the larger eyes I use for the hinges. Even though it's a tight fit and hard to turn the first time, the PVC molds to the threads. I run the screw eyes in and adjust them as needed for hinge spacing. Then I run them out for ten revolutions and I put some brush on crazy glue onto the threads before I run them back in, to lock them in place. I count the revolutions to make sure they go back to the spacing I had before. I do the same thing with smaller screw eyes, like for the line tie. All of them hold well. If I use a sinker/cotter pin combination for hook hangers, I seat that in D2T. If I use a screw eye, like on the tail sections to keep the weight down, I use the crazy glue, and make sure the top coat epoxy coats the entire eye, so it won't rotate out when a fish twists. I clean the epoxy out of the eye with a piece of sst wire. I've read here of people melting hardware into the PVC, but I haven't tried it. I've never had a muskie on, so I can't say with any authority that this will work for them. But I can say the hardware holds as well or better in PVC than in wood.
-
Here are two versions of my 6" black crappie, one in PVC and the original in poplar. The milky white appearance of the wooden version is the result of water getting under the topcoat after it cracked. They are both slow sink, weighing 74 grams each, but I added 4 grams less ballast in the PVC lure, due to the material being a little heavier than the poplar. I left the weight out of the rear hook hanger, which is normally a 1/8oz egg sinker with a sst cotter pin. The tails on both are clear plastic cut from margarine tub tops. The trout is a wooden 7" trout that I repainted as an Ayu version. It is the last wood lure I hope to repaint. It is also a slow sink, and weighs 78 grams. The plastic tail is courtesy of Captsully. Nothing but PVC for me from now on. Many less headaches. -
Here are two versions of my 6" black crappie, one in PVC and the original in poplar. The milky white appearance of the wooden version is the result of water getting under the topcoat after it cracked. They are both slow sink, weighing 74 grams each, but I added 4 grams less ballast in the PVC lure, due to the material being a little heavier than the poplar. I left the weight out of the rear hook hanger, which is normally a 1/8oz egg sinker with a sst cotter pin. The tails on both are clear plastic cut from margarine tub tops. The trout is a wooden 7" trout that I repainted as an Ayu version. It is the last wood lure I hope to repaint. It is also a slow sink, and weighs 78 grams. The plastic tail is courtesy of Captsully. Nothing but PVC for me from now on. Many less headaches. -
Here are two versions of my 6" black crappie, one in PVC and the original in poplar. The milky white appearance of the wooden version is the result of water getting under the topcoat after it cracked. They are both slow sink, weighing 74 grams each, but I added 4 grams less ballast in the PVC lure, due to the material being a little heavier than the poplar. I left the weight out of the rear hook hanger, which is normally a 1/8oz egg sinker with a sst cotter pin. The tails on both are clear plastic cut from margarine tub tops. The trout is a wooden 7" trout that I repainted as an Ayu version. It is the last wood lure I hope to repaint. It is also a slow sink, and weighs 78 grams. The plastic tail is courtesy of Captsully. Nothing but PVC for me from now on. Many less headaches. -
New to tackleunderground and lure making
mark poulson commented on bassman1974's gallery image in Hard Baits
You're hooked now! Welcome to the jungle. -
I'm not sure if there is a right or wrong sexy shad paint scheme, but yours certainly looks right to me. I like your gills. -
Unique and beautiful! I love your design, paint scheme, and hinges. And the tail attachment is truly unique. You clever devil! Do you drill the pin holes after you cast the sections, or are the pin holes part of the molds? -
For me, I'd have trouble throwing something that beautiful into the water that has muskies in it! Forgive my ignorance, but I've never seen a lure with the vertical extension down from the second section like this one. Is it a common muskie lure detail, or is it your own? And how does it affect the lure's action?
-
Walleye cranks and some asp one's
mark poulson commented on HellRAISER's gallery image in Hard Baits
Interesting gill design. I don't think I've ever seen it before. Way to think like an Australian, outside the box (that one's for you, Pete). -
That looks great! Paint job, shaping, hinging, everything! Hope you get your arm broken on the first big fish you hang. -
Looks like someone liked it! Great job. Nice fish. -
Interesting. I've always shied away from oak for top waters because I thought it was too heavy. Let us know how they swim. -
That bait is PUUURDIE! Clean and beautiful. As far as swimming action, here's what I've found works for me. I don't know how much you can adjust that hinging system, but, as a rule of thumb for me, I've found that my lures need to be able to bend into a U shape, with a looser tail joint, in order for them to swim really well. Just keep your ballast low, and toward the head section, and you'll be fine. Some things related to the height to width ratio of the lure affect swimming, as far as roll and wobble, and with some shapes they can't be overcome, so keep that in mind. You need a lure that's taller than wide to keep rolling down. In my experience, having a nose that's thinner and taller, relatively speaking, seems to initiate the swimming better at low speeds. As opposed to more round. I always think of the bow of a WW2 battleship. Now, I know the subs have rounded noses, and the big super tankers have that bulb on their bows under the water, but I think that's because they found the round shape cuts down on drag. And I want enough drag on my lures to start Vodkaman's vortexes immediately! Having said all that, your lure looks great. I'd hit it!
-
When I've stored the left overs from a batch of paint I mixed and thinned with Windex, the paint seemed to separate and had to be remixed when I went to use it again. No matter what colors involved, there always seems to be a redish brown color that comes to the top after it sits for a while. But the paint is fine after remixing.
-
Yeah, it definately is different from wood in that way. And the sanding "dust" clings to your hands and the workpiece. And is slippery. When I finish sanding a batch, or if my hands get too slippery, I just go to the open garage door and blow the dust off both my hands and the work pieces toward the outside. And I blow it off my clothes when I'm done.
-
A good quality full size lathe will turn small stuff just fine.
-
Capt., How would you rate the strength of the two against, for example, poplar or pine?
-
Very clever. Nice job. And, if they don't hit the lure, there's always the 12 gauge.