mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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brc, Do you mean you glued the mesh onto the surface of the bait? If so, what/how did you do it?
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I really like your paint scheme. I'm going to steal your lateral line idea. I made a stencil and tried to do it with a transparent violet, but I think doing a black or dark grey line may be the way to go. -
They look great! I bet you'll get bit on them before you have a chance to lose them. -
The most important thing to remember is what I used to tell my kids whenever they were worried about doing something new. "Don't have fun!" For some reason, they'd always laugh and make sure they enjoyed whatever it was they were doing just to spite me. Welcome aboard.
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I scale cranks with soft mesh that I pull over the crank, and hold together at the bottom with clothes pins. That way I can hold the bill or the cloths pins while I'm painting the scale pattern. For my jointed lures, I use a different method. I hang my cheese cloth mesh fabric, a piece 18" square, over a piece of plywood. It's mounted with duct tape (git 'er dun!) on the top as a hinge. I attached a piece of dense foam about the same size to the plywood face (duct tape again), and have vertical rows of screws on both sides of the spray area. That lets me suspend a lure between two opposing screws, push it tight to the foam, and lay the mesh down over it. Then I use bulletin board pins to pull the mesh tight to the lure face. If one part of the mesh gets too gunked up, I just use a different pair of opposing screws. That way, I can spray the scale pattern on with the lure horizontal and facing me. I do one side, dry it, and then reverse the lure and do the other. It's an inelegant method, but it works. And it's easy to change mesh once it gets too ratty.
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I happens to me, too. I hold my lures in my left hand and paint them with my right. When I first noticed it, I looked at the brush, and I was holding it kind of at an angle to the lure, not at right angles. I try to watch it as I paint, but it still happens. If it's enough to annoy me, I repaint it. It typically happens after I've scaled the lure, and I'm doing the back and shoulders. That's one reason I spray the lures with pastel fixative after they're scaled, so I can wash off my screwups and only have to redo the back and shoulders.
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Yum. Does it come in pickled and in cream sauce? Seriously, it's another great bait. Congrats. I love the scale pattern. Is that a photo finish? -
Really nice, and original, too -
David, Thanks for the kind words, and the tails. I'm just sorry the photos don't show how the glitter in Polyacrylic jumps out without obscuring the paint scheme. I never dreamed it could be so effective. Again, a big thanks to Nathan B. for sharing such a great technique. -
Thanks David. -
John, I missed the pics. Please post them in the gallery.
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Great paint job!!! I want one. -
Very ingenious. Good job.
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Thanks guys. Dieter, The scale pattern is achieved by spraying several heavy coats of the scale color over the mesh, which has to be tightly pressed onto the lure face. The paint builds up at the mesh/lure connection. If you dry it and then lift the mesh carefully, it leaves a 3D pattern. Snax, Thanks. I think I'm going to stick with the conventional white/green/brown trout with spots for now, for the 7" lures I'm going to sell, at least at first. It's a color scheme everyone likes, and is used to, and I don't want to start getting fancy until I know I have a marketable product. One thing that didn't photograph well is a thin lateral line I stenciled onto the sides. I used iridescent violet, and it shows when the lure tilts and catches the light. I thought about trying to carve a line in, but painting seemed a lot simpler. It was really frustrating not to have access to my own computer. Funny how technology has crept so far into my life. My brother-in-law said he found over 50 different spy ware things on my computer, along with enough porn to start my own X rated business. I asked him if he saved them for me, because I never got to see any of that stuff. He deleted them all. Story of my life. I don't understand this whole spy ware/trojan horse thing. If they're putting something like porno on you machine, wouldn't you think they'd want you to see it? At this point, I'm just glad he was able to clean it off. Took him hours. Good thing he works for free. I fix his house, and he fixes my computers.
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The other two lures are a BBZ shad that I added some glitter to with finger nail polish, and another older wood lure I made for a friend. The finish had failed, part of my aluminum rattle can undercoat fiasco batch, so he requested a silver/black back scheme. -
I finished and painted the latest 7" trout with the screw eyes in the back of each section, and the pins in the front. I used a silver/blueblack color scheme like a stocker trout. The lure swims really well, and swims but is very subtle at slow speeds, which is a good thing. I also included a picture of the 6" black crappie I repainted earlier.
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I finished and painted the latest 7" trout with the screw eyes in the back of each section, and the pins in the front. I used a silver/blueblack color scheme like a stocker trout. The lure swims really well, and swims but is very subtle at slow speeds, which is a good thing. I also included a picture of the 6" black crappie I repainted earlier.
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I finished and painted the latest 7" trout with the screw eyes in the back of each section, and the pins in the front. I used a silver/blueblack color scheme like a stocker trout. The lure swims really well, and swims but is very subtle at slow speeds, which is a good thing. I also included a picture of the 6" black crappie I repainted earlier. -
This is an 8" four piece lure I made from poplar two years ago. The topcoat got chipped, and I repaired it, but it looked sloppy, so I decided to redo it. I reshaped the body to have the same kind of V shaped section as the BBZ shad, wide at the top and narrower at the bottom. I had a hunch this would make the lure more stable at fast retrieves. I also added two glass rattles. Finally, I repainted it in the same black crappie scheme I used on my last 6" black crappie. I added glitter by mixing some fine glitter with Minwax Polyacrylic and brushing it on the way Nathan suggested. It worked great. I finished it with two coats of Nu Lustre 55. I took it for a swim Sunday, and it was stable no matter how fast I burned it back to the boat. It weighs 136 grams, the wood part is 6 1/2", the Captsully soft plastic tail is 1 1/2". It swims like a snake at all speeds, and the color scheme really comes alive in the water. -
This is an 8" four piece lure I made from poplar two years ago. The topcoat got chipped, and I repaired it, but it looked sloppy, so I decided to redo it. I reshaped the body to have the same kind of V shaped section as the BBZ shad, wide at the top and narrower at the bottom. I had a hunch this would make the lure more stable at fast retrieves. I also added two glass rattles. Finally, I repainted it in the same black crappie scheme I used on my last 6" black crappie. I added glitter by mixing some fine glitter with Minwax Polyacrylic and brushing it on the way Nathan suggested. It worked great. I finished it with two coats of Nu Lustre 55. I took it for a swim Sunday, and it was stable no matter how fast I burned it back to the boat. It weighs 136 grams, the wood part is 6 1/2", the Captsully soft plastic tail is 1 1/2". It swims like a snake at all speeds, and the color scheme really comes alive in the water.
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This is an 8" four piece lure I made from poplar two years ago. The topcoat got chipped, and I repaired it, but it looked sloppy, so I decided to redo it. I reshaped the body to have the same kind of V shaped section as the BBZ shad, wide at the top and narrower at the bottom. I had a hunch this would make the lure more stable at fast retrieves. I also added two glass rattles. Finally, I repainted it in the same black crappie scheme I used on my last 6" black crappie. I added glitter by mixing some fine glitter with Minwax Polyacrylic and brushing it on the way Nathan suggested. It worked great. I finished it with two coats of Nu Lustre 55. I took it for a swim Sunday, and it was stable no matter how fast I burned it back to the boat. It weighs 136 grams, the wood part is 6 1/2", the Captsully soft plastic tail is 1 1/2". It swims like a snake at all speeds, and the color scheme really comes alive in the water. -
Rookie, Congratulations. Out west here Tackle Tour is the bible when it comes to tackle reviews. Be ready to be busy!!!!! Your ears must be burning. I was fishing Castaic yesterday, and pulled up on another boat throwing swim baits. Turns out it was two guys I knew who fish the AC Castaic circut. The taller one, Eddie the Costco chef, was throwing a homemade swimbait he said you helped him with. It was beautiful. You did a good deed there, and this publicity is the karma for it. WGT!!!
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I see you got your answer on the soft bait forum. Someone here added hi lite to his top coat and said it gave a neat scale effect. Sorry, I don't remember who it was.
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With her tongue sticking out like that, she's all set to be the Michael Jordan of airbrushing! Great!!!!! Dude, Your shop is too clean and well organized. -
JBlaze, Dave Orso's Split Tail swim baits have a crazy tail action, and he uses a single hinge pin in the tail. Actually, it's two cotter pins, one tight on top of the other, and that limits the rotation of the tail just enough. His tail sections are almost round, so the action is very erratic. If you use a plastic tail attached to your wood tail section, and it's tall and thin, it will act like the vertical stabilizer on an airplane, and the tail will be stable enough, even with only one hinge.
