mark poulson

Clemmy, Post a pic of both the motor, and your wheel, and maybe we can help.

Snax, If I made enough lures to use a shot glass worth of epoxy, I'd probably need a shot afterward! I only do a couple of lures at a time, sometimes just one repainted crank, or a swim bait repair, so this micro fine measuring system is perfect for me. I use to give my Mother-in-law insulin shots, and so I draw the epoxy the same way, overfilling each syringe, and the pushing the excess back into the big bottle while it's still upside down, until I have the amount I want to mix left. Then I turn it all right side up, remove the syringe, and empty it into a small plastic mixing cup. I do each part this way. And this method, which allowed me to be sure there were no bubbles in the insulin, works for the epoxy, too. Aside from a great method, I makes me think of a great lady who is no longer with us, each time I do it. A side benefit. And, if I don't mix up enough, it's nothing to just pull a little more from each bottle, mix it up, and go on. I seldom have more than the amount it takes to coat the bottom of the cup left now, and, before, I would be scrambling to figure out something to coat with all the left over epoxy. At this rate, my Nu Lustre 55 will last for years, unless I give in to my friends constant pressure, and make a whole lot more swimbaits for them. And the last thing is, I only have the brush to clean up. I was it with alcohol, and then MEK, and it's good to go for next time. Less time than cleaning an airbrush.

Coating the bait evenly and geting it smooth would be difficult, and it would make the bait heavier. Otherwise, it will work, but it's a lot more work.

I've never put a lip on a TT copy, so this is only a guess. I think the reason the TT turns is that the head is rear weighted, and has very little front weight, so the back of the head, and the rest of the lure, can easily "push" past the head on the pause because they're heavier. If you put a lip on one, it would probably make the front of the head want to stop more quickly, and harder to turn on the pause. But, if you have the time and the energy, make up a prototype and see if it works. Then let me know, so I don't have to do it myself!

Will using the oil based first, and then adding a second coat of water based, avoid the yellowing and give you the best of both worlds?

TJ, Those syringes are the bomb! They're the hottest thing since sliced bread! What a difference, mixing as much as I need exactly, and knowing the ratio is right. I mix it, coat, turn on the wheel, and come out the next morning knowing it will be right, instead of wondering if something went wrong. I don't even go out to check on it at night anymore. How did I ever mix epoxy before? DUH!!!!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

That sounds perfect for a big pike. How does it cast? Or troll?

I've not tried DN, because I tend to shy away from solvent based stuff. I've used D2T, Etex, and now Nu Luster 55 UV inhibited. There are several things I've found that really distinguish one from another. I've found the D2T is a very hard, brittle finish. When I used it on sectional wooden swimbaits, any rock contact (by others, of course, not by me ) would result in flaking off of the top coat in large sections. I think the wood is flexible enough to bend under impact, and that the D2T doesn't, so it cracks. I use D2T now exclusively for plastic bait repaints and for coating the inside of wood swimbait joints. The plastic is rigid, so the top coat is never flexed. On the swimbait joints, I wanted an epoxy that wouldn't sag, so I could coat all the little areas while the baits were unassembled, without having to put them on a drying wheel. I've found the D2T is just right for this, as long as I don't put it on too thick, and I can assemble and top coat the lure two hours after I've coated the joints. I've found Etex to be excellent for wooden baits. It is a tougher, more flexible epoxy, so it handles impacts far better, and doesn't delaminate, like the D2T. The only thing I don't like about Etex, and it's true for D2T also, is that it yellows with exposure to sunlight. Which brings me to Nu Lustre 55 UV inhibited. It has all of the characteristics of Etex, but it doesn't yellow. One common complaint about epoxy is that it doesn't like sharp edges, and tends to pull away from them as it sets, leaving exposed areas. I sand my edges on my swimbait joints so they're soft, and then coat with the D2T, which I lap up onto the face of the lure about 1/4", so there's a continuous film from the inside of the joint onto the surface. Then I assemble the lure, put it on the wheel, and coat it with the Nu Lustre, and there is a good overlap of one epoxy to the other without having to get wet epoxy into the joints again, which is a nightmare. Lastly, someone on this site, who trolls lures back east, suggested "T"ing my trebles to prevent hook rash. It has cut down on my hook rash 95%, even on jerkbaits and cranks. I hope this helps.

Forgive a question from left field, but where in the world did "Spotted Ape" come from? I can't see an ape in that lure.

This is a question for Downriver. Do a search for him on this site's search feature, and ask him.

I agree with rjbass. Goes on like Etex, but won't yellow, and tough and flexible, so it won't chip like D2T.

Luretrekker, Just how big is that lighted lure?

BJ, Thanks for the link. I went on their site, and found that Pep Boys carries it, and they are 1/2 mile from my house. I'll check them out. I'm a little leery of solvent based paints, since I don't have a full spray booth, and my solvent respirator is so old, I'm having trouble finding the filter cartridges for it. But it looks like a good product, so I'll investigate it further. Thanks again. Mark

Is there a website for that dupli-color paint? I googled it, and nothing came up.

That has to be the ultimate night fishing lure, a work of both pure science and art. The Nautilus, from 20 Thousand Leagues. I know it would be deadly in the salt around the kelp at night. I bet it would also work for largemouth bass, especially the big girls, who hunt and feed at night. How long did it take you to make it, and is it stable when you fish it?

MT, I have friends who fish the salt who catch barracuda and calicos with them, so I can't see why they wouldn't work for pike. You may need to upgrade the snap, since pike get big. EWG, Thanks. That's where I got mine, but it was a couple of years ago. I hadn't seen that rounded shape before.

I thnk they look great! Where did you get your blades?