mark poulson

Bob, Thanks for the tips. I'll let you know how I do.

Bob, I used Createx colors to detail a wood bait I made, which was sealed with polyurethane, and primed white with rattle can oil based paint. The Createx dried to a tacky finish. I put it in the oven at low for ten minutes to see if that would make the Createx "cure", but all it did was blister the finish. After it cooled, the blisters shrank, but they're still there. Looks like I'll have to strip it down and start over. What did I do wrong?

Bob, Your mention of a water cured polyurethane clicked. I have some Traffic, a tough, clear, high gloss water cured polyurethane that we use for hardwood floor finishing. I'm going to give that a try. Thanks for the idea.

Bob, I just reread your answer and see that you addressed the 5 min epoxy issue. Sorry for the first answer. I'll try the two ton epoxy.

Thanks Bob. I've always used oil based primers in construction, but I wasn't sure about lures. I'm curious about the smell issue. If the clear coat is cured, will it still have a smell? I have quite a few swimbaits I've already done with oil based clear coats, and I wonder if I need to recoat them with epoxy. Which epoxy do you recommmend? I've found that 5 minute epoxy yellows. Would a plastic decopage clear coat work?

I'm new to airbrushing, and I need some advice. Up to now, I've been using cheap spray paint from the lumber yard, and it works okay, but detail is a problem. So I bought an Iwata HP-C+. I chose that model because it had Teflon seals, and can spray oil based paints, and lacquers. I was wondering if I can mix types of paints. Can I prime with an oil based paint, and then do colors with Createx, or some other acrylic paint? Will the water based paint adhere to the oil based primer? If not, can I use a lesser grade of acrylic paint as a primer, and then airbrush my colors and details over that? Lastly, what type of clear finish should I use? I make mostly larger swimbaits, with walk the dog actions, so the hooks are constantly swinging against the sides of the wood. Currently, I have been using vertical grain douglas fir, kiln dried, that I had left over from some jobs I've done over the years. The wood is strong, and, if you pick the lighter pieces, plenty buoyant for the baits I make. I know, that's a lot of questions. If there is another thread, or another site, I should visit instead of bugging you guys, please feel free to steer me there. Thanks in advance, Mark Poulson