mark poulson
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Everything posted by mark poulson
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Off the subject, but do you need a license to drive aps?
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Remember that the same long chain polymers that give a top coat gloss also make it stronger. More gloss equals more strength. Have you tried scuffing the gloss top coat with a Scotch Brite pad to knock down the shine? That way you get the strength of the gloss, but not as much shine.
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Buy their Bloxygen and their thinner, too.
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I read your post, and my monitor froze up!
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Ted, I've used several different super glues on my powder coated swim jig and spinnerbait heads, and had no issues. I use Pro Tec powder paint. I bake my baits in my toaster oven for 30 minutes at 350, and then let them hang inside with the oven off and the door ajar until they're cool enough to touch. After I glue on the eyes, once the glue has set, I use a coat or two of clear nail polish to lock them in, depending on how smoothly they seat.
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I've found that, with using super glue for eyes, less is more. I just wet the center part of eye recess with the tip of my wire applicator and then position the eye. Too much glue is far worse than too little. For me, the glue just holds the eyes in position until the topcoat can cover and anchor them, and it doesn't take much to do that. If I am using a thin topcoat, like a spray acrylic, I'll go over the eyes with clear nail polish, once the topcoat has cured out.
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Look for a coupling nut. They are extra long. We used them to extend anchor bolts when they were too close to the concrete.
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In my experience, a hard tail doesn't interfere with the hookset, but a hard tail will break if it hits a rock (or a steel grate). Don't ask me how I know. Hahaha
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Try switching your outlet with a 20 amp switch on the hot leg, so it is easier to turn on and off.
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See if whichever epoxy you use has a contact number, call/contact them, and get the information straight from the horse's mouth. Years ago, I called Etex, and spoke to one of their techs. She answered all of my questions, and I never had any issues with Etex from that point on.
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I've only dipped a couple of plastic KO crankbaits in KBS, and I didn't have a problem with bubbles. I dipped slowly, so all the details got filled, and removed them slowly, checking to see if air was trapped anywhere. I hung them to drip over my workbench, and removed the bottom drip with a paper towel until it couldn't be removed anymore. If there were bubbles, they must have been down in the bottom drip, and that got removed with the paper towel. Of course, it is entirely possible that I just didn't see them, even though I had my glasses on. Hahaha
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I like the weedless Arkie jig mold. I'm sorry, but I don't know the number.
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I cut my old plastics into 1"+- square chunks, add a bit of new plastic and heat stabilizer, and then cook it in the microwave until the new plastic kicks over. If, when I take it out to stir the colorant into it, there are still lumps, I put it back in for another 30 seconds, and it's usually ready to inject.
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Cadman turned me on to Rustoleum Etching Primer for lead. I spray whatever I want to paint the day before, so it has a day to cure, and then I can paint the lead (spinnerbaits in my case) with Createx, and then top coat with clear nail polish. Spray it outside, or with a fan behind you toward an open door, because the fumes are nasty.
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If you put a strip of masking tape down on your work surface, you can put a drop of super glue down on it, and then use an opened paper clip to dip into the glue, and then spread a little in the eye socket. I usually do two baits at a time. The glue won't set that fast, so I have time to place the eyes. My topcoat holds them in place, and clear nail polish adds an additional layer of protection. Once you've used up all the clean parts of the masking tape, just peel it off and lay down a fresh strip.
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Try posting your question here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1281784588575840/?fref=nf
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Dave, The Yozuri rattle traps I used to fish had a "scooped" forehead, so I did the same thing when I made some shallow cranks, using a rat tail file to carve a channel up from the line tie to the back. I did it because I thought it would make the bait more stable, and give it a tighter wiggle. Is this right, or did I get it all wrong?
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There are some in the gallery. I'll see if I can find them. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/profile/14932-mark-poulson/content/?type=gallery_image&page=4 This doesn't show the convex top, but it shows the glow. I hope you can see it. I'm obviously not a computer person. Hahaha
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I think the bristles in plastic brushes are glued in, so they don't shed nearly as much.
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Anyone know what happened to bearsbaits?
mark poulson replied to Fish_N_Fool's topic in Soft Plastics
I hope he isn't suffering, and that his family can deal with it. I had two relatives go through that, and the strain on our families was terrible. -
I use .065 weed wacker replacement string for my weed guards, and to make my chatterbaits and swimjigs weedless, too. I try to get the clear 5 sided string replacement spools. I get them from Ace Hdwe.
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Larry Hoag, of Soft Plastic Bait Mold Makers, suggested using a metal whisk, chucked in a cordless drill, to mix plastic that has separated or hard packed. The key is a long enough whiskto reach the bottom of the gallon bottle, being able to push it down through the bottle's opening, and then being able to get it back out. He actually cut the whisk wires at the very bottom of their loop, so they would fit down the bottle's neck.
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My hat's off to you. I struggle to spell CNC, let alone understand how to work with one.
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When I found out that Solarez has enough surface tension to make a dome over a hole, I drilled a 1/4" diameter hole, 1/8" deep, in my PVC frogs, painted the inside of the hole with glo paint, and then dripped Solarez into the hole until it had made a raised dome. Then I held it under my nail light box for five minutes, because it was thick, and I wound up with glow in the dark eyes with a convex top, almost like an eyeball. It really looks neat at night, and the fish like it, too.
