mark poulson

You can also put the two plastic bottles in the microwave for a few seconds to get them warm. When the components are more fluid, they are ready to use. Because they aren't mixed yet, the heat won't affect the final product.

Bear in mind I am just a hobby pourer, so this might not work for you. I bought a small paint mixer for my colors. It works. You can Google small paint mixer and see a lot of options.

Dang! Please return the four dozen swimbaits I just sent you to foil for me. Hahaha

I found a way to make my spinnerbaits hold up better, without having to resort to titanium wire. I bend my spinnerbait wire closed at the R bend to get a 60 degree+- angle, instead of 90 degrees. I use #6 Indiana blades on the back, with smaller Colorado blades on the clevis, and they keep the blade up so I can fish them at lower speeds. That way, I can use the 60 degree bend and keep the blades closer to the hook and trailer, which I think makes for better hookups. Then I lock the spinnerbait body in my fly tying vise, so I can work on it more easily. I use 28 gauge gardening wire to close and reinforce the bend, putting three or four wraps around the blade wire, then four loop wraps around the back of the R bend, and finally another three or four wraps around the wire leading to the head. I reinforce and lock the wire in place with crazy glue, being careful not to let it run down either wire too far. I can fish the same spinnerbait for 20 fish or more without having the wire open up or break. I also put a bead right up against the loop at the end of the blade wire, and lock it in place with crazy glue, to keep the split ring for the swivel from accidentally slipping through any opening in my wire loop. This whole process adds five minutes to my building time, but it avoids the frustration of having a spinnerbait open up or break on a fish, and of bringing a spinnerbait back to the boat with the rear swivel and blade gone.

At the top of this forum page, on the left hand side of the black banner, use the More tad to find the Contact option.

The Spike It dip and dye that I use is a dye, with really fine pigment particles, and all of their colors run /bleed onto whatever soft plastic baits they lay against. I think you would have to go to some kind of a soft plastic paint, which has larger pigment particles. I think Spike It sells that paint, too, but I've never used it.

You might ask the site host here.

I think I'll go that way next gallon I buy.

Is there a link to your recipe cookbook?

Do you sell the same degassed plastic that Bait Junky used to sell?

I'm looking for a supplier who sells Calhoun's plastic by the gallon.

That looks similar to Bub Tosh's Nose Job, but at the other end. Maybe it should be called The Booty Call.

Here's a picture of the bait I repainted, trying to match the Strike King version of Table Rock Shad. I am no artist, but it looks close. The shimmer from the hilite doesn't show in the pic.

I've had good luck bending out the eye in the Mustad 32786 jig hooks with an awl, but only in the larger sizes, 3/0 and 4/0. I tried it with the 2/0 on a 1/4 oz. jig, and broke every hook eye.

I slide the "mandrel" (the part that gets the skirt tied around) onto one end of a straightened paper clip. Hopefully it's a tight enough fit to keep the mandrel from turning, but, if it's not, I put a slight bend in the clip wire to act as a kind of a spring, to hold the mandrel. Then I clamp the other, unstraightened end of the paper clip in my fly tying vise. Then I just tie my skirt material on the same way I tie skirts on jigs. It works for me, so it must be pretty simple to do. Hahaha

This is something I just tried, and it worked. I added some of my soft plastic violet hilite to some Createx transparent base, and shot it over a jerkbait repaint with my .035 Iwata airbrush. It shot perfectly, and, through multiple coats, I was able to get a really need effect that shows at some angles, but not at others. I'm sure other hilite powders will work, too.

Try here: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Punching_Skirts/catpage-PUNCHKIRTS.html and here: http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Collars/Rubber-Skirt-Cone-Collars.html

Those are too nice to let anywhere near a fish with teeth! Very nice job!

Dinger Baits has some 2.5 bodies with a weight transfer system. I think he calls them w/t baits. https://dingerbaits.com/lure-bodies/

Kurt posted this at the top of the Hard Baits Forum: Personally, I've had good luck with Predator Baits and Dinger Baits.

I use a hair dryer, because it isn't as hot as a heat gun, so I don't run the risk of ruining a bait. I know there are some here who do use a heat gun, but I'm not that talented.

Could they be "thinned" by adding some clear powder?

I think motor speed needed depends on the type of turner you use. I bought a 1 rpm motor in a rotisserie kit for a BBQ, and used the motor to turn my ferris wheel-type turner. It worked fine.

Dave, It was me (surprise, surprise), and this made everything clear. Thanks. Mark