mark poulson

Wasn't he the original drummer with the Beatles?

I like it. It holds up really well, and doesn't seem to change the paint scheme colors, except to deepen them a little. I have not tried it over a chrome lure, so I don't know how it would affect chrome. I use it for all my one piece lures that I can dip. I do wait until I have several lures painted, so I minimize the open time, but the screw top pickle jar/plastic layers/bloxygen has made storage perfect. No skinning. The next batch I dip I'll let them drip back into the dipping jar, to see how that works. I fish lures after two days, but I think it takes about four days to get really hard. For me, even after four days, it still gets hook rash, so I put a coat of clear nail polish over the path of the belly treble.

Enjoy the process. I learn something new every time I make a lure.

Use balsa. Make your bait a little larger. Use thinner wire/lighter hardware. Use smaller hooks and split rings. Use a lighter top coat.

Go to a tool repair shop, buy compressor oil, end of story.

When I switched from a mason jar with a double layer of plastic to a screw top pickle jar with a double layer of plastic, I've had no more skinning. I use bloxygen, too.

It was always an adventure, but I could find it through my profile. This time I just scrolled through the Hard Baits Gallery until I found one of my pics, clicked on it, and then I was able to open all of my gallery pictures. I saved the location in my favorites, and it looks like this: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/profile/14932-mark-poulson/?do=content&type=gallery_image&change_section=1

Thanks Nate.

Do you let the KBS drip back into your dipping jar?

I've found that the SpikIt dye markers I use on my soft plastics don't bleed, at least for me. http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Lure-Dyes/

There's a stick at the top of the Hard Baits Forum about PVC. It's not everything, but it's a good overview.

This looks like a great price for an airbrush with a MAC valve. https://spraygunner.com/airbrush/gravity-feed/?sort=featured&page=4 Have you had any experience with that brand of airbrush?

:O(

My experience with Minwax Wood Hardener was as I was trying to find a way to make wooden baits more waterproof, not for strengthening, but here's what I learned. The wood hardener penetrates deeply into the wood, reinforcing the cell walls, because it was designed to help make rotten wood strong enough to paint again. I found that when I soaked a wooden bait in the hardener for an hour, it would penetrate so deeply that it took a week for it to stop giving off solvent fumes. This made it a big delay in the painting process. If I were making a big balsa bait, I would worry that a penetrating sealer would take away the biggest plus from using balsa, it's buoyancy. The more sealer that's absorbed, the heavier the bait will become. If you're looking to strengthen the balsa enough to make a 10" musky bait, I worry that you will have to do so much strengthening that you'll lose the buoyancy and lively action that is balsa's distinguishing feature. I would suggest that you explore other woods, like poplar, or even go to a PVC decking material, which is buoyant, but still strong. I stopped building lures from wood, and switched exclusively to PVC, except for small balsa cranks which I harden with super glue on it's surface.

If it works for them that's all that really matters.

Curt, I've got the banner stuff now, on the left side. Thanks. Is there a way I can go straight to my gallery photos? Mark

I removed all the 2500 cookies from my computer. When I logged in again to TU, I lost the BROWSE option that used to be in the black banner above the forums. Can I restore it, and, if so, how?

I haven't found a way to repair a chipped or broken lip that will hold up to grinding it against the rocks.

This is only way I found to do it, and it still requires some cosmetic touch up and repair of the topcoat. I remove the line tie, and then carefully use a bandsaw to cut a slot down the center of the broken lip, staying away from the actual surfaces where the lip is glued to the bait. I'm just trying to create some working space, not do a final removal. Then I use a drywall knife (box cutter) to carefully pry the left over lip from the bait slot. Once I get the old lip material out, I fit a new lip in, wedge it to the top surface to be sure it fits right, and then glue it in. I reinstall the line tie, and proceed with any cosmetic repairs and recoating. It is slow and time consuming, and still requires lots of repairs prior to being able to fish the lure again. I stopped doing it years ago because I'm lazy.

Try one of the concrete sealers. Just be sure to keep the finished bait away from soft plastics.

https://www.jigskinz.com/

Contact them through their website and ask them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-LBS-Glass-Bead-Medium-Grit-MIL-SPEC-8-70-100-grit-Sand-Blasting-Abrasive-/111672165459?hash=item1a002e0453:g:VocAAOxydgZTKU6c

Really nice!

I would look at a regular wood working vise.