mark poulson

Go online, and check which big box stores, like Lowe's and Home Depot, carry Azek. I order mine online from Home Depot, and they deliver it to my local store free. The sizes are limited on their site, so I get the smooth surfaced trim board, and laminate two pieces if I want thicker matl. PVC pipe glue and clamps make a really good bond, as long as you make sure the two surfaces are flat by sanding them first.

When I had that problem, this is what the tech at Etex told me to do. Mix up another batch, exactly 1/1 by volume, and recoat the tacky bait. It will solve the problem, and save the bait.

Maybe turn up the pressure little by little until it flows.

Hahaha. I guess it's hard to see me smiling through the keyboard.

Obviously they were all just waiting for you to stop! Hahaha

And, if you add big flake, it shows up as dark spots.

Flake can change/tint colors, so this is what I've found works for me. I find that adding the flake to the plastic it first, after it's hit the 350 degree point, and then adding color, lets me see how the finished plastic will look.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-LBS-Glass-Bead-Medium-Grit-MIL-SPEC-8-70-100-grit-Sand-Blasting-Abrasive-/111672165459?hash=item1a002e0453:g:VocAAOxydgZTKU6c

I spray the inside of my injector with PAM after each load, after I've removed the cooled plastic. I pull the injector's plunger all the way to the back of the cylinder, so the entire inner surface is expose, shoot in a burst of PAM, and then reinstall the nozzle and push the plunger back down so it is ready to draw up the next batch of plastic. When I notice plastic around the O rings, I clean it off with my fingers, and my injector is ready to go again.

Bear in mind I'm a hobby builder, so this is just what works for me. If you do a quick (really quick) dip in clean acetone, that will remove the surface layer of the plastic, and make is shiny again. I do that before I paint clear plastic baits. Too slow, and the bait will come apart or melt. Once I've dipped a bait, I can paint right over the newly exposed plastic with my paint scheme, and it will stick, but not bond. My top coat protects the paint, so it doesn't need to bond to the plastic, just stick long enough to get top coated. I've got cranks I painted this way that are years old. The finishes are worn, but the paint stayed on them fine. When they get too worn, I just redip them in my top coat, or respray them with it.

Doesn't the sort of cast suspicion on him right from the start?

It's like a spybait with no props.

Here are three things that work for me separately, or in combination: Turn down the pressure. Thin the paint. Hold the air brush farther away from the bait. I use this most, because I don't have to adjust the air brush to get a thinner coat, but it wastes paint. I'm just a hobby painter. If I were a production guy, I'd find a combination of all three that worked best.

Just remember that the spray can rustoleum will react and soften if it is left in contact with plastisol baits.

I don't know if the Choice Deck is light enough to be buoyant. Maybe you could ask them for a small cutoff to use for testing.

Please post a picture, for us "hard to visualize" folks.

Separate the sections, and coat the insides of the joints with D2T, lapping it 1/4" onto the face of the lure. That way, you can rotate the lure by hand until the epoxy sets, making sure the epoxy doesn't pool, and then hang the sections to cure. Then assemble the lure, hang it between two points on your turner, so that the joints are held open, and coat the faces with your Etex, or whatever epoxy you use. D2T is thick, so you only need one coat for good protection on the inside of the joints. You can do two coats on the faces, once the joints are done.

Does that mean that liquid plastisol is a suspension, and not a solution?

You install it after powder coating. Use a weedless head, and superglue the strand in after the heads are cured. I don't think this would work for production, but I just build for myself, and it works for me.

I only rework my own jigs and spinnerbaits that have seen better days for myself. I would never try and sell them to anyone else. I've been doing it for years. Otherwise, my old baits would go in the recycling.

You can do the same thin with 100 lb fluoro, or weed wacker replacement fiber. Just thread it into the worm/craw, and it holds just fine.

The fatter the head, the more contact you'll get. I typically use Arkie/Sparkie jig heads, but I also use swim jig heads, and spinnerbaits that have been bent out of shape too often.

I use the smallest size on my spybaits. Since they only come one handed, I hammer them flat(to get rid of the cupped edges), and twist them the other way to get the opposite spin direction. They spin very easily, and I can control the amount of spin by how far I bend the blades back. For twitch baits, I bend the blades forward, so they spin, but give more water resistance and stay in one place on the twitch.

I am a hobby pourer, so this is from that perspective, not production. I use the 80 grit glass beads, and I hear it in the injector, but mine still works fine, with the original O rings, after 5 years.

Plus Leonard, of Bait Junky's, posts on this site, and will answer emails with good information.