mark poulson

I use the smallest size on my spybaits. Since they only come one handed, I hammer them flat(to get rid of the cupped edges), and twist them the other way to get the opposite spin direction. They spin very easily, and I can control the amount of spin by how far I bend the blades back. For twitch baits, I bend the blades forward, so they spin, but give more water resistance and stay in one place on the twitch.

I am a hobby pourer, so this is from that perspective, not production. I use the 80 grit glass beads, and I hear it in the injector, but mine still works fine, with the original O rings, after 5 years.

Plus Leonard, of Bait Junky's, posts on this site, and will answer emails with good information.

You can do it by taking a compass with a pencil in one end, setting it for approx. the radius of the dowel, and then swinging arcs from different points around the perimeter. You'll get enough overlapping arcs to show you the center.

That will get bit!

I bought a pair of epoxy syringes like these from Barlow's: https://www.barlowstackle.com/Flex-Coat-Color-Coded-Syringes-P1905.aspx Their tip is tapered, so I drilled a snug fitting hole in the top of each component of the epoxy, and leave the syringes in the tops of the bottles. When I want to mix some, I hold the syringe tight against the bottle, turn the bottle upside down, and pull out as much as I need. Then I turn the bottle back over, and remove the syringe from the bottle top. Once I squeeze the first component into my mixing cup, I put the syringe back into it's bottle, and do the same thing with the second component. That way I never mix up resin and catalyst syringes, and they last forever. It makes getting the exact same volume of components easy, and allows me to buy the bigger bottles of epoxy.

Use a syringe, and measure by volume, 1:1.

Yellow with brown to taste.

This is what I add to my plastisol: https://www.glonation.com/glow-in-the-dark-products/neutral-glow-powders.html

Would enlarging the gate into the cavity help?

When I bought my powder there was only one size available, and it wasn't labeled. I bet you could ask them what size they offered 5+- years ago.

When that happens to me, I put a drop of needle lube into the bottom of the trigger part, so the air passing through it pushes the lube up around the O ring. It helps.

I hadn't notice the UV glow, but I haven't looked for it. I will now. I began using the Glo powder to make my baits more visible in off colored water, or in low light/night. I don't throw Glo baits in clear water during the day. I have noticed that the Glo powder in Createx makes the paint scheme less crisp, but I can still see it clearly. My guess is that the glow takes over in low light conditions, when the paint scheme isn't easily seen.

I add the green/white Glonation glow powder to a bottle of Createx transparent medium, and it sprays just fine with my .03 needle. I spray it over my paint scheme, just before I top coat. It doesn't kill the paint scheme in more lighted conditions, but it adds a glow in low light or dirty water.

I would take advantage of the slot for the original hook eye to place a removable pin, so I could add a single strand weed guard made from weed wacker refill filament. I do that with lots of weedless heads that I buy and finish.

They might have been able to use ingredients that are no longer available.

I would post this question in both the Soft Baits and Hard Baits Forums, too. Lots of people there with lots of experience with making molds and alternative materials.

Try Clausen dill pickle jars. They have a gasketed lid that holds up to acetone fumes.

Try posting this question in the Wire Baits Forum.

8 hours to recoat, 12 hours to handle, 24 hours to fish.

I use two jars of acetone, clean and dirty, and then blow dry the brush with my compressor and air nozzle. I do it once in each jar, dirty to clean, and the brush is clean and dry when I'm done. I think the compressed air helps remove any particles that might might be trapped in the bristles.

Reread Cadman's post.

I never thought about that. I typically use a Keitech or ES Ripper swimbait as a trailer, and I don't think it would be a problem with them. I do worry that the tow point might be too low, but a 30 or 60 degree hook should put the eye up above the nose enough to make it work.

Learn to clean your brush quickly, so you won't be tempted to skip it and wind up with a frozen/blocked brush. Also most air brush paint shoots better when thinned to the consistency of skim milk. Many lighter coats, heat dried with a hair dryer before you spray the next coat, will let you build up to a color you like quickly. One thick coat won't dry completely, and you'll wind up with moisture trapped under your paint, which will cause problems when you add your top coat. Take your time, practice on some white paper, and some white PVC pipe, to learn what your air brush can do, and how the paint is applied. Good luck, and good painting!