mark poulson

Is that the paint that Spike-It sells?

Just to be safe, check it out online. A fire is very unforgiving.

That's okay. I'm kind of hard of hearing, so it doesn't bother me.

Kitchen exhaust hoods have to have explosion proof motors, by law, to prevent grease fires. They have been fire rated for at least forty years that I know of. You should be able to take the name and model number off the hood, and then go online and find out if it's fire rated.

If I'm using a soft plastic worm or grub on a bait that I've coated with X2 Gloss, I put a coat of clear nail polish where the plastic connects, and a little beyond, to act as a barrier.

I use solvent based sharpies.

Really good information. Thank you. I have been able to spray the Glonation powder through my airbrush, but it must be so thinned that it takes a lot of coats to get a decent glow. I added to some Createx clear base. I've had much better success adding the powder to clear nail polish. It settles out after it sits a while, but can be mixed back into suspension with a straightened paper clip wire, and it's ready to go again.

The cheap version of these pliers will work, and there are no sharp edges to cause scratches: http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Wire-Forming-Tools/Round-Nose-Pliers.html

That's a good idea. Thanks.

Do a search for vortex here. Vodkaman Dave has some good thoughts, based on his own testing and engineering experience.

I don't use epoxy, so I can't answer that question. Sorry.

Every type of paint has it's pros and cons. For me, the most trouble free colors are water-based airbrush paint, like Createx. They are made to be shot through an airbrush, so the paint particles are already fine, and, because it's a water-based paint, there are no fumes to worry about. It's the only type of paint I use, other that rattle can white for a primer.

Dude, who are you running from??? Hahaha

Did you ever get that whole upside down thing figured out? And the driving on the wrong side of the road?

Thanks Bob. That's my plan for Monday morning.

You should have heard me try to explain hookup ratio to her.

I use a 2 parts plastisol to 1 part salt ratio, by volume. I use Bait Junkys soft, and add a teaspoon of softener to a cup of plastisol. I've found that using glass blasting media in place of salt makes a much stronger bait, so now I add 3/4 parts media, 1/4 part salt, and 2 parts plastisol, and mix in the teaspoon of softener before I cook the plastisol initiallhy.

Thanks, and right back at you. I hope you, and everyone here, has a happy holiday season, and that the coming year is even better for all.

No, I have not had this happen if I dry each coat of my baits completely with my hair dryer. But I have had it happen when my coats were too thick to dry properly.

I know what you mean about hard to deal with! Before I got the larger Knipe pliers, it was almost impossible to get a decent loop bend in that wire by hand. I use the .051 wire for the pivot shaft on the whopper ploppers I make. The ones I buy from LPO are 12" long, with a loop on one end. After I thread the shaft through the body and tail, and add a cup and a bead for pivots, I move down the wire a bit and form a loop with my large Knipe wire forming pliers, leaving some space between the loop and the last bead. Then I lock the loop in the padded jaws of my vise, grab the tag end with a pair of visegrips, and twist the wire back toward the pivot ball. Once I get it close enough, I cut the end off with a dremel and cutoff wheel. I found, by happy accident, that my poorly shaped loop, facing down, actually helped with keeping the body from rotating.

No, that's not the O ring I need. I actually lost that one a long time ago, and have been using the airbrush for five years without it. If you look at the very back of the airbrush schematic you'll see assembly 17. There's a thin O ring that sits just above the threads on the last section, the one that gets screwed in and out to control how far the needle pulls back. It doesn't show on the schematic, but it's there, to provide enough friction to keep the needle adjustment piece from moving, once it's screwed in as far as you want it to go. I need to find that O ring.

My youngest saw the subject line of this thread, and read it through social media eyes. I had to explain to her that MF is a brand of plastisol.

Thanks for the link. I found the same schematic on the Iwata website, but it doesn't show the O ring I need. I did take it down to the local auto parts store today, but they didn't have any that were thin enough. I'll try Ace tomorrow. If i can't find a match, I'm thinking of sending it in to Coast to service.

I need the O ring that goes on the needle extension handle and provides tension, so the handle doesn't self adjust. The entire assembly is #17, but I can't find the O ring listed or sold separately. Does anyone here know if it can be bought separately? If not, do I need to send it in to Iwata, or is there another company that does airbrush service?

Once again, the easy answer isn't necessarily the right one. Thanks. What you said makes sense.