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mark poulson

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Everything posted by mark poulson

  1. I need the O ring that goes on the needle extension handle and provides tension, so the handle doesn't self adjust. The entire assembly is #17, but I can't find the O ring listed or sold separately. Does anyone here know if it can be bought separately? If not, do I need to send it in to Iwata, or is there another company that does airbrush service?
  2. Once again, the easy answer isn't necessarily the right one. Thanks. What you said makes sense.
  3. Is the super float as durable as there regular plastisol?
  4. A small bottle won't glue up many pipe joints, and that's what it's sold for, not welding soft plastics.
  5. Forgive a non-lead pourers question, but couldn't you just use a small triangular file to deepen the lower part of the hook slot, so the double keeper could still be used?
  6. I found that I had to add hardener to my med BJ plastisol for my Keitech-like swimbaits, or else they were too wiggly. The stem of the tail is thin, and needs the stiffening. I just bought the ES ripper mold, and I plan to do that to the plastisol I use for that mold.
  7. I can't open your photo. I think you need to save it to your computer, and then post it to the appropriate gallery here first. Then include a link to that gallery photo here.
  8. I've found posting my pics in the Gallery, and then adding a link here, works for me.
  9. I get really good silver with this: https://www.amazon.com/Sally-Hansen-Nails-Xtreme-Celeb/dp/B004KRXDXK
  10. This is my 7" Senko mold. Any more cavities, and I get incomplete fills. The duct tape is to fill voids in the mold halves when they're clamped shut, because the POP and epoxy sealer are a little thicker than the 3/4" mold frame, and the tape keeps the plastic from squirting out into the next cavity when I hold pressure for a ten count.
  11. 7" senkos are one of the easiest baits to make a POP mold for. Make matching mold boxes that have an inside dimension of 8", and a depth of 3/4". Make the width wide enough for your masters to have 3/8" between them and on either end. I am a hobby pourer, and use an injector without a warmer, so my plastic cools pretty quickly. I've found that three cavities is the maximum I can inject at one time before the plastic cools and I get partial fills. I made my mold with individual cavities. I'm sure someone more clever than I could make a mold with a single fill sprue and multiple cavities, but not me.
  12. Pete, those are all great links! Thanks.
  13. Thanks for the help guys. I'll do a search tomorrow.
  14. That was my PB, 8.5, and it came from the Castaic Lagoon, when I lived down in SoCal. I moved up to the Delta 2 1/2 years ago, and my best so far up here is 7+.
  15. I am looking for how to get an emerald green worm, as opposed to junebug, which is more blue/purple. A friend asked me to pour some worms that color, and I have no idea what it even looks like. Is there such a color available, or do I need to mix my own?
  16. Very nice work. I use sharpies, too, but you clearly have it really dialed in.
  17. Don't they call that the Trilene Knot, too?
  18. Gliders, Is it true that single malt Scotch will also add years to your life?
  19. Try Mend It soft plastic glue: http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Mend-It_Glue/descpage-MIG.html
  20. That's why I stopped selling baits. It took the fun out of making them.
  21. Jesse. one way I found to get my plastisol to the right temp. consistently without burning it is to always heat the same amount, so I can eliminate the variable of quantity.
  22. If you can, try a degassed plastisol, to eliminate having to degas it yourself.
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