mark poulson

Matt, it seems to me that you are going to a lot of trouble to try and use MCU. I haven't had any trouble with most other, easier to use, topcoats, like epoxy, clear acrylic rattle can spray, or even clear fingernail polish. Maybe consider something cheaper and easier to use before you invest a ton of time and effort tryin to make your MCU work.

These are the ones I use for my crankbait belly hook hangers.

Try adding more heat stabilizer.

I would not try and pour molten lead into PVC. The fumes would be terrible, and probably toxic. Instead, I drill 1/4" holes up from the belly, and use 1/4" lead wire for ballast. By using lead wire I can quickly and easily change the amount of ballast to get the bait's action and rate of fall right.

I achieved success building glide baits thanks for the most part to the generous help of people here on TU. For me, I carve the bait to it's finished shape, cut it into two section, and add my screw eye and pin hinges. I ballast the two sections separately to get them to fall level, and at the same rate. I do this with all the hardware and hooks installed, but not painted, so I can alter stuff without ruining the finished bait. I use Azek PVC trim board to build my baits, because it is totally waterproof, which lets me test the bait as much as I need to, and the trim board is as buoyant as medium balsa. Once I've gotten the bait to that point, I take it apart again. I drop the two sections, side by side, in a bucket of water, and add ballast as needed to get them to fall at the same rate. I add additional ballast equally to both sections to get the rate of fall I want once the two sections fall correctly. I use 1/4" lead wire in 1/4" holes in the belly to add or subtract weight. Then I reassemble, and make sure the hinges are totally loose and free of friction. I adjust the gap between the sections to achieve the amount of glide. The larger the gap, the shorter the side to side glide. Typically, for baits 5" and less, I want that shorter glide, so I can work them more in place without moving them away from my target area. 6" and over are smoother gliding, so the gap is tighter. I try to make sure the bait tapers from thinner at the nose to the belly/hinge point, and then back down to narrow at the tail. I also try to make my baits thicker at the top than at the bottom, so they are more top buoyant. Once you get a bait that glides, play around with the joint gap until you get the glide you want. Lastly, I never use an O ring or snap. I tie directly to my horizontal line tie. Here's my first glide bait, and it still catches fish:

Which protec chrome are you talking about, and where do you buy it?

You can also use a drill press to extend the hook eye spot so the larger hooks fit.

Close by eye counts. I haven't had the plating fail yet, and some of my baits are 5+ years old.

I just twist the prop in the opposite direction when I want counter rotating. I get my props here: https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Lure-Making/Shop-By-Product-Category/Crankbaits-Plugs-Hardware/Plug-Hardware

Wouldn't that weaken the hook?

If you need to seal/coat it before you pour your silicone, maybe try another coating that doesn't have a solvent base, like epoxy.

Try hitting the bait with a hairdryer, once the wet look has gone away. I usually wait two hours after the final coat, and then hit it several times after that on the same day. Two days later it's ready to fish.

My do-it essentials 5" senko mold doesn't dent. I shoot at 325+-, and hold pressure for a five count.

Do you use a connector link? If so, what size?

What hooks do you use?

They're at it again.

https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Plastic-Oval-Beads

Preheating your injector should give you a little more time to shoot.

Kurt, Someone's at it again.

Contact KBS and ask them.

You can stiffen almost any wood enough for detail carving, after getting it down to finish shape, by coating it with runny super glue. Just be sure to use sharp tools.

Please post here if you find something that works.

Check with Barlow's.

I've never heard of it. Do you have a link to a source or specs?

If your machine has Teflon seals, acetone should dissolve any crud.