mark poulson

I've been fishing cranks coated with Rustoleum X2 Gloss for a year now, and never had it fail, except when I let a plastic worm lay over one overnight.

I've never tried WD 40, so I don't know if it will work, too. On the other hand, I don't know why it wouldn't. I add some yellow (waterproof) carpenter's glue to my plaster of Paris, after it's mixed, to make the casting stronger. It seems to make the details hold their edges a little better. I just have to make sure my mold release on the face of the first, sealed half is good, so the second half doesn't glue itself to the first half. After each half is cured, I brush on two coats of D2T epoxy, thinned with denatured alcohol. Any iffy spots get reinforced with some super glue.

I attach my hooks with split rings so I can change them out if they get dull, or damaged.

I've heard that, too, but it hasn't bothered my injector, and I've been using the glass beads for four years now. Granted, I am a hobby pourer. A production pourer might have a different experience. I do shoot spray PAM down my injector cylinder after every pour.

Just remember that I measure by volume. The media is a little heavier than salt, but not by much. I also add salt, because I think it helps the fish hold onto the bait longer, but it also makes the baits more fragile. So that's why I switched to the glass bead media for 3/4 of my "ballast" in my 2 parts plastisol to 3/4 parts glass media to 1/4 salt formula.

Dude, you don't know what you're missing! Hahaha Just don't ever taste a Chompers bait. I haven't, but it smells so strong I can only imagine how nasty it would taste. Of course, the fish don't seem to mind, but what do they know?

I use Createx paints and a small artist's brush to paint my spinnerbait heads, and then coat them with clear nail polish. It holds up just fine.

Just don't let it rest against a soft plastic bait for any length of time, or it will soften.

I was going to try a pasta machine, but I lost mine in my last move, thank goodness!

I am just a hobby builder, so these are not production ideas, just stuff I do at home. If you're adding a skirt, just wire it on, and leave the wire tag ends long enough to twist 3/4" extra and lay it back down the belly of the hook so you can insert it into the trailer. If you don't add a skirt, try twisting some wire onto the hook shank behind the keeper, bend the tag end back along the hook shank toward the head, and add a drop or two of super glue to hold it in place. The rougher hook shank will hold the trailer better.

That salt is strong! I spit a lot if I lick one of my senkos to check if it has salt. I sometimes have to check, because I make some senkos with no salt or blast media to use on 1/4 oz jig with no skirt, so the bait is more buoyant. Kind of a turd rig with a 5" senko.

I like a smaller hook, like a 1 or 1/0, but in a short shank X2. The stronger hook is heavier, so the action isn't affected, and the bigger fish can bend out a X1 treble. I use Mustad KVD short shank trebles: http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Mustad_KVD_1x_Strong_2x_Short_Triple_Grip_Treble_Hook/descpage-MKVDEST.html

I use an oscillating belt sander to do most of my shaping. It is fast and still controllable. This is what I use, except mine is 20 years old: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Oscillating-Edge-Belt-Spindle-Sander-EB4424/100061671

It weighs just a tad more than the salt I use (Kosher or fine grind) and it seems to make the baits more durable. Here's where I got mine: https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-LBS-Glass-Bead-Medium-Grit-MIL-SPEC-8-70-100-grit-Sand-Blasting-Abrasive-/111672165459?hash=item1a002e0453:g:VocAAOxydgZTKU6c

From what I've read online, salt with iodine isn't harmful for fish in baits. If you guys know better, please share.

I use a 2 parts plastisol, 3/4 parts silica, 1/4 part salt, by volume. To a cup of soft BJ plastic I add a tablespoon of softener. My senko knockoffs are slighty heavier than the originals, but just as flexible and more durable, because of the silica.

I have my fingers crossed for you!

I use a bad clip to pinch the top of my NorPro cups shut between pours, and it keeps the plastisol hotter, longer too. I use the same clips to form a smaller pouring spout on one end for hand pours.

Here's where it's sold: https://www.barlowstackle.com/Twistech-Wire-Former--P1040.aspx

Frank, a member here, uses a hot plate with temperature controls on his work area to keep his Pyrex-like containers up to pouring temp, once he's gotten them hot in the microwave.

Do you upgrade your snap? The stock ones I've used are not strong enough for big fish. I use the 40 lb snaps from LurePartsOnline.

Let us know how your frog progresses.

That's what I found when I tried it on a swimbait, but I've never made a frog like yours (really nice job), so I don't know for sure if that's true with it, too. I just know a tail like that has a more subtle action. If you look at the Huddle Jack in the water, you can see how the tail moves. If it were my bait, the first thing I'd try, before making different pieces, is turning the tail/feet 90 degrees, so they can maybe have a side to side action.

I found that the Huddlestone tail works because the entire body in front of it was rigid. That tail is not an action tail. It is driven by the water flowing off of the rigid body in front of it. Maybe a swivel attachment of the last segment would enhance any movement, but I think, with your bait's current joint system, some kind of a boot tail would give it more action. Even then, it's hard to imagine what action it would have without testing.

Try posting this question in the Wire Baits Forum. They know a lot about tying materials.