barry batchelor

Has anyone tried the appliance epoxy sray paint to seal a POP mold? I saw it at Wal-mart and it got the wheels turning.

Got my new tattoo and can't to get out on the lake and show off our colors.

I'm sure this has been dicussed but how do you aplly powder paint to spinner baits with the wire and all. You can't dip e'm.

thanks tubinator. I'll give it a try tonight.

How do I eliminate air bubbles in a POP mold? They seem to migrate to the edge of the bait I'm using for the master. I tryed sliding the mold back and forth while the POP is still wet. Got lots of bubbles to rise to the top, but still had air trapped around the bait in the finished product.

Paint is made from three components. Pigment, binder, and a liquifier. The binder is any number of things such as latex, enamel, acrilyc, viynl. Certain binders only solidify in solvent and not water. Some solidify in both. From the sounds of your post ,you are looking to slow the dry rate ,evaporation, of the liquifier to prevent it from clogging your needle. Extenders are basically wetting agents and slow down evap. times. One of the best wetting agents that every one has easy access to is detergent. examples are windex, dish soap and a variety of other detergent based products. The best bet in my opinion for you would be to hobby acrilyc thinned with clear windex for your fine lines. There are no magic formulas for keeping paint from clotting up however. When you use hobby acrilycs you will need a good clear coat. Ideallly epoxy. Hope this helps.

Thanks for all all the suggestions and laughs guys. The bait cleaned up well and has joined the ranks of the "aresenal". All bass beware:lol:

I think I managed to get most of the hair and crumbs off of it. I spent all day carving sanding and painting only to drop it on the carpet.

I made a top water plug last night. Before painting I dipped the plug in clear viynl. Worked like a charm. Thanks for all the input. Barry

I just switched from viynl paint to acrylic. I seal my bodies with Laquer before the acrylic but the grain still rises up and gives a very rough look and feel. How can I combat this problem. Ireally enjoy the ease of use and cleanup of the acrylics.

Where does one find this lure building tool?

oldlure.com also has them

Line man. I use mirror finish epoxy from fiberglass supply.

Most all top clear coats besides epoxy are solvent based which would make your acrylic paint job run. You can thin epoxy with alcohol. This will give you a thinner coat. Get your your self a blow dryer and heat the finish coat slightly to eliminate air bubbles. Keep working the epoxy towards the back fo the bait in deliberate smooth stokes this will also help get rid rid of air bubbles. You might also want to look at how you mix the epoxy. The more air you introduce during mixing the more air you have to deal with on the bait. Hope this helps you.

What are your guy's thoughts on appling just a tiny touch of color to the devon top coat. Not to be used as a primary color Just a faint hue over the existing pattern. Kind if an irredecent effect. Will the Devcon hold color? If it does hold color will it wash off at the lake. Would apple barrel work for this. I was even thinking of adding a half drop of lurecraft worm coloring. Let me know what you guys think about this.

what kind of material is used to create scales. i was thinking about using some of that needle point stuff at the craft department of walmart. i assume you just wrap around your bait and shoot the paint thru it ?

I dont' own the book but have read it. If my memory serves me he mentions something about boiling wood bodies in linseed oil to seal them. Has anybody who owns or recently read the remember this? Any help clearing this up would be greatly appreciated. I'm kind of riding the fence on ways to treat the wood before painting. I know there has to be a silverbullet no fail way of treating the bodies.

What's up dude. Check out Stamina quality components. And Lure craft. The best book on tackle building is The complete book of tackle making. It can be purchased at the afore mentioned companys. Welcome aboard you could'nt have picked a more rewarding hobby. Remember hang around this forum often, it is literally a gold mine of how-to information Barry

thanks for clearing that up for me guys. I thought maybe I was missing something when it came to airbrushes. Wouldn't it be great if you could have that much control with a airbrush.

What type of airbrush do you guys use to sign your baits. That is an awsome touch.

Is there a general rule of thumb I can follow for determining how deep a crank will run.

Lurecraft just introduced a tube mold which I now own and it works very well. The only problem is that it is not a high production mold. I'd with a good rythm you could produce 1 tube every 5 min. Several molds all lined up might be what your looking for however.

You'll have to get a couple extra for the sake of practicing. Dremmel tools come with a cut off wheel and drill bits that are invaluable for this task. By the way I've had nothing but bad expeirences with Jann's. In my opinon Stamina and Lurecraft are the best companys to deal with.

Has anybody ever used the lures for free .com website? they claim if you fill out their questionaires the'll send you free lures.

Those dial color wheels are also very helpful in determining mixing values.