gunnie3035

I dont even spray a primer coat anymore. I dip the bait in white paint and let it run off and air dry. I also don't heat set until the painting is completely done. UNLESS I wrapping mesh around the bait for scales. Then it needs heat or the mesh will scratch the paint off. If you heat set after every coat eventually your going to split a plastic bait. Re-paints arent easy to split, but those cheap copy lures will come a part pretty easy if your not careful with the heat.

Those were the answers I was looking for, thanks fellers. I oiled the plunger and it seems to work fine now, but still doesn't seem to be as smooth as it should be. Feels like metal on metal when the trigger is depresed [worn o-ring?]. I used machine oil and I will order the O rings as suggested.

The brush is paint free. I thought about putting some machine oil on the little brass piston, but I was afraid it would mist some of the oil on baits. Seems strange to me the parts for these brushes are so expensive its cheaper to replace than repair. I wanted to make sure I was over looking an easy fix before I purchased a new brush.

I have a Iwata hp-c gun that has been giving me problems. I've used it pretty hard over the last couple of years and I figure its about time for something to wear out. The only thing I've replaced is the needle because I accidently bent the old one while cleaning it. Now when I depress the trigger the airflow is slow to stop and sometimes won't stop at all. After messing around with it I discovered the air plunger or whatever its called [maybe valve stem?] is slow to react after letting off the trigger. I cleaned it several times, but it didn't help much. I figured I would buy a replacement part and be back in business. Thought I would replace the nozzle while I was at it. That was until I discovered the two parts alone would cost me over $80. Any ideas how to fix this problem or should I just junk it and buy a new brush for $100??

Yes, the paint is drying before it leaves the gun. That is why your getting the spider webs. The retarder will slow down the drying time. The paint may need to be cut with some type of thinner.

What Bob said, except I use silver and gold and pathlo or sailfish blue.

I put it in a clear sqeeze bottle like they use for ketchup/mustard and give it a shot before heating and re-heating. It helps a ton on lighter colors.

Instead of filling the mold all the way to the top of the sprue stop as soon as you get to the opening of the spuce. The plastic will suck down faster and deeper into the bait. Then pour in the 2nd color quickly and fill to the top of the sprue. I use this all the time on swimbaits to give the head a different color. It can be used on any mold poured from the nose.

What are you using for scent?? I use upper hand scents and add two drops per bag with no oil. It will never wash off the bait or your fingers....LOL

You can also use this to your advantage by pouring a different color of plastic before it sucks down to far. It can give you a totally different look on a translucent base color.

I absolutely hate priming a lure so I acquired a 1 gallon jug of white for a great price. I pour the white paint in a cut off 20oz soda bottle and dip the lure. Let the excess run off while carefully shaking the lure. Then I throw the bait on the lure turner so the paint wont run. Darker colors take 2 dips but you can prime a lure in seconds.

Flip the pins around and put them in the mold backwards so they touch each other. This will give you a clear open hole to slide in a mojo style weight. Glue it in and your good to go. Bullet Weights Inc sell some 5/16" hollow lead wire that works nice. I use custom 5/8oz weights, but I like them to run 8-10ft. I still use the nickle plated brass insert if I want them to wake. A short shank #2 works the best. Still has some teeth but doesnt pick up excess weeds.

I've had a few from Jann's come that way. After light sanding I mixed up some e-tex brushed it on and then wiped off with a rag. It doesn't make it perfect, but it will fill in all the scratches and make it more clear.

I think there is a company on ebay who sells the ps900 and parts. If not let me know I may have a extra nozzle.

Bobs baby e molds [both sizes] make very good baits. But any bait will roll if the plastic is to stiff. It has been my experience that most guys and even the big companys use plastic that is too hard. It causes a problem because in order to get the tail kick the bait must be retrieved too fast for the overall weight therefore forcing the bait to run sideways. Just keep in mind the softer the plastic the slower you can retrieve the bait. Yeah they may not last as long or get tore up by the fish, but at least they got bit....... I use soft plastic and even super soft on the smaller baits.

I assume you dipped the Rapala that had a factory clear coat? This would explain why you got a great finish. I believe the the clear your using is just highlighting the natural orange peel affect we all get when painting a bait. IMO if you add a spray on clear barrier between your paint and clear coat you will be fine. I use U-POl #1 clear on every bait I paint. Basically is smooths out the surface and your clear coat will flow better. I would put it on a drying wheel after dipping.

If I need a transparent pearl effect I dust the bait with white and hit it with Wasco shimmering green, gold, blue, red, etc.....

I've painted a lot of paddle tail tube SB's with an airbrush. It doesn't take any special paint if your going to dip in clear after. I've used createx, but its rather expensive for soft plastics. The .99 cent craft paints work just fine if thinned right. The biggest challenge is the oils from the plastic. I've found if you let the baits set overnight and then wipe them off with alcohol the paint will stick a little better. After painting place them on wax paper while installing the eyes or the paint is going to stick and peel off. I made a painting stand for the baits. It is nothing more than a piece of sheetrock. I pin the tail down on the edge of the sheet rock and I have pre-drilled holes so a finish nail will hold the bait up right while painting. If you need to lay the bait on its side to paint then use wax paper under it. I use a standard 4 cup pyrex for dipping my baits. I leave the cup sitting on a pankcake griddle while I dip. I pin them by the tail from the edge of the table until they cool for a minute then drop them in water. Its a lot of work for a plastic bait. I had a bunch of pictures in the gallery, I assume they are still there, take a look and if you have any other questions I will try to help ya out.

I would start by clouding up the plastic with a drop or three of white. Then add your watermelon green and perhaps a little chartreuse.

Hit the D2 with the blow dryer while it is still in the syringe. Hit the lure a little with the blow dryer after you apply the D2 and quickly stick it on the wheel. It will smooth out and look like glass...

If you don't heat set good with DN it will peel the paint off for sure. As Rayburn said, don't heat them up too much or you will cause the glue to become soft and split or deform the lure. I've found you can heat set a re-paint a little longer than a cheap lure blank. I suppose it has something to do with the factory top coat. I always heat set after the lure is finished and never had a problem. I personally think you run a higher risk of deforming the lure if heat is applied after every color.