gunnie3035

I probably use transparents more than any other color. They are great for fading colors over one another, plus they are thin and spray very nice. As the others stated a transparent color would work really nice for what your trying to do.

I personally don't like salt. I believe is absorbs the oil in the plastic and therefore hardens the bait. If you wish to use lead or perhaps sand then I would pour the bait in two pieces. Just before the bottom section hardens too much simply drop the lead/sand so it adheres to the soft plastic but yet doesn't sink all the way to the bottom. Then pour the upper half and it should work fine. As the others said a microwave is a much better way to heat than using a propane or electric burner. If your worried about the plastic cooling off too much between pours then buy a pancake griddle and set your cup on it between pours.

I've used DN over Wasco paint quite a bit. The first time I used it DN peeled the paint right off before I finished a brush stroke. I heat set the second bait and it worked out fine. I've found if you will spray some automotive clear over the bait before applying the DN you will get a smoother looking finish. Just don't expect to get the same look from DN that you get from 2-ton or etex. It may be tougher, but it doesn't look as pretty in my opinion.

On my ghost pointers I just hit it with a light coat of white and then wasco irridescent blue. I suppose you could mix the 2 together, but the irridescent needs a little base color to stick.

I paint a fair amount of trout baits. I generally dont use much creatix. I use a lot of wasco water based taxidermy paint. The following is the colors I use on every trout: wasco paint: light bass green dark bass green black pearl white pearl silver gill red creatix: trans- light brown trans- violet pearl gold white