gunnie3035

It does not mean the lure will simply sink until it reaches the 7ft mark and magically suspend. It means the bait will run approximately 7 feet and is a suspending model. Most will actually float to the surface, some faster than others.

This is what I do on any jointed bait. I jam painters tape into the joints to hold it straight when painting. I try to keep it as small as possible. On the rear joint I generally use a piece of wood. I only epoxy the parts of joint that will come into contact with each other. If your getting epoxy in the joints then your either putting it on too thick or worrying about getting epoxy where ya don't need it. Once I have the bait straight for painting the tape/wood never comes out until the clear is done. The only ones that are a little tricky is the Spro shad & Tru-Tungsten baits because of the hook hangers. I had to make a special clamp for those. Think about it like this; you don't put epoxy on the bill of a crankbait so why worry about getting it that deep in the joints.

So I got the Iwata HP-BH Hi-Line brush. Thought I would give an update for those guys who are sitting on the fence wondering if they should spend $60 or $200 on a brush. All I can say is "wow", I should have bought the Iwata in the beginning. It truly is a fine airbrush.......

I got the stuff from Sportsmans Warehouse. Bullets Inc. is the brand I used to buy.

I know the plastic hi-lite powder won't work in the creatix paint, I've already tried it.

I'm no expert, but I think ya'll are making this more expensive and difficult than it is. Color shifts are just a combination or more specifically layers of paint. Take a taxidermist for instance, he can recreate the perfect colorshift replica of a true fish and never spend more than $6 for a 4oz jar of paint. I'm not talented enough to shoot an expensive large pearl auto paint that requires a .10 mm needle on a 2" bait. Plus ya still need to layer the right paint/base underneath or the color shift wont show. Its all about the layering of paint, not a magic color in my opinion. Save yourself some $$ and buy the highlite stuff from Wasco like someone else mentioned. Top it off with some transparent colors and you can create any color shift you wish.

Sure they will, they are no different than any other 3D eye.

There are quite a few companies who offer the clear square pvc gift type boxes w/hangers in all sizes. Not a true clamshell, but this is what I use for cranks if I don't have the original package. I buy mine off ebay in lots of 50. They run about .25 including shipping.

I've never ordered from them, but I sent them an email a week ago that was never answered. I'm trying to match up some skirts to Yamamotos 297 green pumpkin w/black fleck color. If anyone knows their color code for this skirt let me know OR if anyone knows of a close match from any company let me know.

email me dude and I will make you a deal.

While I love the ps900, the replacement needles don't work the same as the orginals, so I was thinking about getting a Iwata HP-BH Hi-Line w/a 2mm needle. I would like some opinions on this brush before I fork over $200.

I put lead inserts in swimbaits all the time. I have some that have been sitting in my box for 3 years with no adverse affects? The only material I had problems with was brass.

There are a few options out there on that bait. #1 use rubber cement or superglue gel. It does work better, but as the others stated if your using WTP type eyes they will eventually come off. #2 Use the plastic doll type eyes with the studs. I clip the studs off and glue them to the bait OR you can heat a piece of wire and make a hole for the studs. #3 Put the eyes on the bait and carefully drip clear plastic over just the eye. #4 As someone else stated use the flat eyes then carefully drip clear plastic over them. I personally think we all get too hung up on whether or not our baits or clear coat will hold up. I've thrown a lot of factory swims and the eyes fall off in one trip. I still keep fishing them........

I poured the chub e bait for a while until I sold the mold. I tried all types of hardness with that mold. I still settled on soft for that bait too because the wings are so tight and medium or tube wouldnt fill in the narrow cuts. The other issue with that mold is the thickness or lack thereof on the tail section. Soft seemed to be too soft and the tail would be all over the place, however it still swam pretty good. I settled with pouring the chub e belly in soft and the back in medium. Sometimes I would go medium on the belly, soft or even super soft on the wings, and medium on the back. The whole tail should completely fold over and touch the side myth is not really applicable to every swimbait.

I use Calhoun soft for my 5" baits [baby e type], but I like to slow roll them and get some tail kick. I've never poured a 10" swim, but I've poured quite a few 8" Ospreys. I used the same soft plastic on those with good results. The softer you go the more wobble and tail kick you will get. I've poured a fair amount of 5" baits with MF super soft as well and even used a combo of soft on the belly and super soft on the upper half [tail]. I don't like anything stiffer than soft. Personally I think it makes the bait too stiff and you really need to crank it to get any action. Then you run into problems with the bait rolling on its side. Of course a lot of this depends on the tail design. A thinner tail section may require a stiffer plastic. If your set on using a stiffer plastic I would buy the soft and a jug of hardner. Then you can add or subtract the hardner to your personal needs.

What kind of SB's do you plan on pouring?? The size of the bait matters too.