gunnie3035

White specifically is a little thicker as stated. What I generally do is have one bottle of white (not thinned) for things that need quick coverage and another bottle that is cut with 4011 and a drop or three of retarder. Or buy a bottle of auto air white and a bottle of regular createx would be about the same thing. You will notice when your bottle get down to the last third the paint doesn't flow as good anymore. Adding a little 4011 will get it flowing good as new...

Paint is paint for the most part, but some do spray better than others. For instance auto air or wicked will spray better out of the bottle than regular createx. I personally like black auto air but prefer white createx over the auto air white. Createx gold is harder to spray and control than auto air gold but has better coverage. And auto air gold will go bad on you if ya don't shake the bottle on a regular basis. The brown wicked colors can't be matched for things like craw baits. So ya can't just limit yourself to one or two series of paints. Pick the colors you think you will use the most (regardless of brand) and go from there... PS Waco gill red or deep red createx for gills.

I paint lures to catch fisherman not fish....lol If I could paint a flat surface I would make a heck of a lot more $$!!!

+1

What Ben said; get rid of the rattle can paint. Dip your baits to cut the time in base coating rather than using a rattle can otherwise mixing the two will cause you nothing but problems. Even with an epoxy top coat I suspect once the hook rash gets deep enough the baits will peel like an orange.

A little trick I stumbled on a while back in dealing with those scratched up lips you get on the Jan's baits is to brush on some etex and then wipe it off with a clean rag. The etex will fill in the scratches but by wiping it off it won't look like epoxy. In this case you could probably sand the glue off and do the above and it will look good as new. 2-ton can be used as a clear coat when you have cracked the paint on a bait with DN or some other solvent clear coat. Give it a try on the next "gosh darn-it" bait. Sometime you can't even tell the paint was ever cracked,,

Double post

I fly by night and shoot from the hip + I never write anything down. Sometimes is works out and sometimes it looks like recycled mule dung. The later ends up in the blemish box. Once in a while I forget how I did something but it comes back pretty quick. I usually take a picture of the new or odd stuff and add it to my photobucket. It drives me nuts to paint the same thing over and over. If I need some inspiration I copy one of you guys...

The Hi-Line is a super nice brush, but it has a small needle. In my opinion it is best suited for detail with reduced paints. If your using it for all purpose work ya might want to consider getting a gun with a bigger needle.

I don't know how to remove it, but just curious why would you? Maybe to replace the O-ring? If your still having problems I would remove the needle & nozzle and run a cleaning brush through it. Harbor Frieght sells them for about $5.

A few years back I bought a couple baits from 6th Sense. I painted a few up resembling his primary shad pattern that everyone and their dog copied. He sent me a couple nasty messages and threatened he'd sue me. I told him to pound sand & asked if he had permission to use those photos in his ads(most of them are copyrighted if ya didn't know). Anyway, I said to myself I would never get upset and act like a 2 year old if someone ever copied me. So knock yourself out....

The type of tail you use will also play a factor. At least it did on the rat bait I tried to make. I found if you add another hanger in the tail position and then use a hitchhiker spring to attach your plastic tail it will let the tail swivel thus allowing the bait more back/forth motion. Plus it is easier to swap tails.

+3 on what Bob said. I stole ideas from someone else anyway.

If this is the first time you have used 2-ton and your used to brushing etex your probably trying to make it too thin. 2-ton is thicker and cutting w/alcohol will make the problem worse. If you brush to hard the brush will actually pull the epoxy off and leave brush strokes. Most will fill in but some marks will leave potholes. I'm guessing the clumps are from brushing it too long. Ya got to get 2-ton on there quick. Try one w/o the alcohol and see it it works better for ya....