gunnie3035

I love the Junior D as well. I'm not sure about the relationship between the two companies, but Zipbaits made the Junior D or vise-versa. The B-switcher and Switcher-mini are hard to locate in the states. The B-Switcher will run 15ft on 10lb flourocarbon. They are costly little fellers.......

+ 1 on what Mark and Bob said. I have a trigger control adjustment [if that is what you call it] for the Iwata HP series. I don't use it anymore. If you want it PM me and we can work out the details.

I don't know if this is the best method, but I use rubber bands to hold the joints.

There you have it. Isn't too many folks who can paint fins better than JP!!

What is wrong with a $2.99 Mirco pen?? Sign it, hit it with the hair dryer, and your done.

If your selling a bunch of lures then I would buy them from the manufacturer by the case. They are half the cost. There is a plastics company on Ebay who sells a 100 different types of "PVC" boxes. I think they even sell tubes. The boxes fold up flat for shipping and are fairly cheap.

Ordering from overseas will require 10-15K minimum order. It might help if you specifically name the lure eye your searching for. Not really sure why, but eye sources are protected information by a lot of guys. The Boss lure eyes are a good quality product similar to taxidermy eyes. They do cost 3-4 times more than regular eyes. They don't offer a lot of different colors, but they super cool. The only two places I have ever seen them is Tackle Warehouse and fishingskirts.com

Your right, the 2-ton is not going to fill in the holes and the 2-ton bubbled because your paint wasn't completely dry or 2-ton wasn't fully curred when it got wet [maybe from improper mixing?]. You have some options, either use some sort of bondo filler and fill in the holes or switch clear coats and dip each section individually. I suppose you could always spray DN too. Etex will even be a bigger problem if the holes arent filled in. I love 2-ton, but on resin baits its DN all the way.

I've had the same problem and I think it is heat setting the paint. On resin/wood baits I will heat so long the paint will nearly bubble and don't have any issues dipping DN. But on plastic baits, especially the cheaper made baits I cant heat set them as much or it will split the bait and half of them end up with some cracking or wrinkle. For some reason it seems to happen more on the belly of the lure rather than the back?? If I'm using DN on plastic baits I just spray it on, but you don't get the same glossy finish. I don't know what the answer is maybe someone else has figured out a solution..

I'm not real familar with auto air, but I havent seen a good transparent olive green in regular createx. I've mixed green and black to get the olive color, but it wasn't transparent. The gold marker pens are used for carvings or taxidermy where scales are present. They are difficult to work with and my opinion aren't worth the $4. Your going to need to create your own scales with gold over black and use transparent green to get the look your after.