akriverrat

was wondering if anyone could help me in finding these skirts or something similar direct. these peticular ones i found on ebay, they are 7.5 inches long and look like they would work great as a tube for the 3 or 4 oz spearhead mold by do it. or any way of making these, i looked in barlows but all the skirt material in there is focused on smaller baits.

thanks for the reply reeves but you misunderstood what i meant by powder coating being limited. i do multiple color jigs myself using brushes and a fluid bed to apply. what i actually had in mind was really intricate painting that dosent seem possible with powder painting due to limited time and application process. if i wanted a face on one of my jigs with teeth and lips and eyes i am not aware of how to do that with powder. shadowing, splattering, stacking, masking all limited as far as i know anyway. if i am missing something fill me in, its just that ive never seen anything powdered like something you would find in the painted hardbait section. not to insult anyone and not trying to start an argument jsut looking to expand my capabilities.

what do you guys think is tougher of the two. the powder sounds alot easier just heat dip and cure. i am thinking about getting an airbrush since powder is somewhat limited when it comes to some really custom paint jobs. is there paint out there that can be heated to 350 degrees and covered with a clear powder coat for a glossy protective topcoat?

About 940 degrees C. But be careful! The fumes are poisonous. Brass (85 Cu 15 Zn) 900-940C 1652-1724F dosent sound like its worth it

well after a few trials i found that if i help the clear get started it will fluidize. im gonna tough it out for now and hope that my next batch is easier to work with. thanks for your replies.

i dont know how i got along without clear powder to top off my jigs before. i got a mirror gloss powder coating from ohio custom coatings and the stuff is great. nice mirror finish, gives everything a melting together look plus the protective coating. only problem is it seemed to work in the bed at first but is not doin so well now. i have to shake my bed to keep the air properly distibuted and get any kind of fluidizing. thought about placing a small vibrator to keep things shaken but thought id ask if anyone has a brand of clear that they are using in there fluid beds with good luck. thanks.

was at walmart earlier and all the toaster ovens will not accomodate larger jigs like 12 or 16 oz spire points or mojos. anyone have any recomendations?

can anyone steer me in the right direction for the american market value of a pound of lead?

very informative info sagacious. thanks for the tips. i actually have a thick piece of rubber sheet that will work great for that. bet its gonna work alot better than the kids paperback book i been using .

its a tape used in the heavy construction to tape vapor barrier in a fire retardant manner. it is fairly thick but transfers nicely and dosent pick up too easily when im rubbing it with my finger or nail. 3m venture tape makes this stuff and i can usually get it for free since its on every job im on pretty much. the coil rod im using is major large thread and pretty long so i will tape the ends so my hands are rolling over a smoother surface. that should help anyway. anyone know of pattern rollers that would transfer scale patterns? this bridal tulle, can it be bought in a form that can be heated to 375 and no damage done? i did a couple wrinkle jigs in the foil, i wasnt real impressed.

that is a 4 oz shad. its 4 inches in length, uses a cc600 wire form. the lure looks alot better in person. guess im not all that great at taking pictures. i caught the eye of one of the local charter captains though in seward and he promised me some awsome photos. big silver holo 3d eye and paint the pec fin should finish that lure off finely.

heres a transparent brass with foil undernieth. topped with copper vein and a polar white belly. finished with a mirror gloss i am pretty happy with this pattern. looks like a juvenile cod that the ling cod and rockfish should find very appealing.

ok im getting into foil now and rolling that piece of coilrod over multiple pieces of high temp tape is brutal. also would be nice to have some different patterns than the standard checkerboard. any ideas?

i am pouring lead jigs.

ok im not too impressed with the water putty molds. they turn out great, good detail but they just dont hold up to the heat and dont transfer the detail all that great. so anyone ever use a grout mix to make a mold? straight up mortar would hold to the heat i believe and i think you could get the same detail as water putty if you used a fine non shrinkable grout mix. ill probably give it a whirl but was just wondering if anyone already tried this.

would say its effective for a mold made out of durhams water putty? dont have much experiance with this stuff and im sure the heat takes a toll on it. more lead more heat, would i be wasting my time on molds 8 oz and up?

well i got my clear powder coat from ohio custom coatings the other day. making up another fluid bed to run off the other line on my compressor and also waiting on my mold to dry that i made of durhams. im sure there will be some trial and error and ill keep everyone informed.

i fish for all species of salmon and the bottom dwellers that alaska had to offer. halibut, lingcod, sea bass and rockfish such as yelloweye all strike my intrest. one of these years i am going to go for a salmon shark when i have the time and money to offer the shark gods

just wondering your opinions on clear powder coat for a protective coating. what is the rocommended application process? does it need some cure time in the oven or is this an aftercoat thing? is it tough? will it work in a fluid bed? seems i have a harder time with the lighter colors in my fluid bed and it dont get any lighter than clear. thanks guys and keep up the good work. summer is almost here.