BLT

One of the major issues with tails not taking the dye right is the grease. When you think you have all the fat scraped off, look for more lol. After I get all the fat off, I soak in laundry detergent and greased lightning for an our or so. I stir every so often also when I wlak past the bucket. Greased lightning works great for getting the grease off the hair. I have let it soak for 2 hours with no issues. Pull the tails out and put into an old pillow case, tie the end off and put in the laundry machine on the rinse/spin cycle to get rid of the detergent/water, then I hang to dry. White is ready to go, and the others get dyed.

I love the banana head jig for rocky areas. 1/8-3/8. Work well for walleye also.

S-jaw does it the same as me also. I buy all my thread from "the thread exchange" online and in bulk spools. Saves money. I keep going to the sewing shops to get EMPTY spools, and they never have them.

Don't remember that one, but the old football game I used to have.

If you have a guy that takes pelts from trappers and deer hides, ask him what he charges and dye your own. I get huge tails, some where the white usable hair is 7". I pay $.90 a tail, de-boned, washed and only air dried. I keep them in the freezer until needed. I went through just shy of 500 this year, and hate the thought of having to buy them somewhere else if something happens to him.

From a selling standpoint, I think the poxy gives it a nice "depth" that uncoated can not do. Does it help protect them more from rockville? Always a subject of debate, and nothing but opinion. It's funny and I have said it before.......1/2 the time I fish, I don't even use painted heads, but I wouldn't sell to many telling people that.

I think most here will say 30 minute epoxy. Makes the jig look great if done right. Me, I use minwax polyurethane and just brush on a coat, let dry, do another coat. Doesn't give you the visual that the epoxy does, but protecs the jig from a little more bangs along the rocks.

Size is up to you. Either will work. Look for after Christmas sales for tinsel. I go to AC Moore and other craft stores for "flash" supplies. I use some stuff from the craft store that is meant to be hung from your doorway, and is 6ft long. Pearl and regular silver is what I use. (I think they also had red and gold there) Almost 1/4" wide, but it is going on 2-8oz. jigs also, so the width is good for me. I also tie it onto hooks and people use for FLounder and Striper. No hair, just flash.

Best site I know of for tips/tricks/how to. Been to many that have maybe 12-15 post a month on them, and there are to many sites with guys and ego trips. Now as far as the guy on e-bay giving a bad review.....if he doesn't know any better, that would be his perception of the mold. Now that being said, I hope he did contact collins about this issue before posting this review. I have a do-it shad head mold that is my biggest pain in the but to pour. Ringed and barbed, but getting a complete pour was really hard. (should also say I was using the next size bigger hook like I do in other molds) This is the only mold I use that I HAVE to have the best/soft lead for some reason. Tried everything and this is the only way I can pour it. (1/4 oz.) I wish they would have a production mold of this, I go through almost 1000 a year lol.

How do you deal with the over spray? Did you build a box with a fan? I have the air brush, but still have only used it 2 times.

I'm waiting for this vise to go on sale again for $149.95. Saw it at that price, went on line the next day to get it....missed the sale. I don't know how many jigs a year you do, but I use an Anvil Apex for 5 years now, and the jaws are shot. Use it for around #8 hooks to the same 8/0 you are using for the spro heads. Tied 1000's of hook teasers and jigs with it. If that SWE vise doesn't go on sale in the next 2 weeks, I'm getting it any way. http://www.saltwateredge.com/SWE-Rotary-Jig-Vise.html

There is a great youtube video on doing this with bucktail.

I have the Anvil Apex also. Cam or jaw is wearing out after many 1000's of hooks from #8 to 8/0. E-mailed them and they said they sold that model to another company and would send them my wish for replacement parts......never hear back. Hooks/jigs keep coming unclamped while tying. They are off my buying list now, even though I liked it while it worked.

Sorry, didn't realize they don't carry it.

Did you contack WTP? They do all kinds of eyes and foil and may be able to help you out as far as bulk. I order rolls of eyes from them in many sizes, and I am pretty sure they do sheep foil. Wish I could find my catalog from them to look.

I dye hundreds of tails a year. It's really not hard. Big thing I had to figure out because no one posted this info was......a non reactive pan. I use a good acid dye also, not kool-aid. As far as the original posters question, if you can find someone to dye for you....find where hunters, butcher shops and trappers take their furs. I have a guy I that I can get just about any fur from, and huge bucktails de-boned and washed for .90 a tail. Other saltwater tyers would kill for the tails I get. I have 2 skunk pelts right now I play around with for small jigs.

It was from a just opened, brand new plastic jar from them. Maybe they left the moisture in, but it wasn't me. As mentioned, I already do mix with the clear powder. Mixed it even more to try to help, nada. Maybe I just got a bad batch.....always possible.

Right now, I have the green and white. Yes, it is pricey. Bought a pound of each.

I'm using a 5" cup and it didn't seem to matter how full it was. I also mix with pearl, and some times for the plain white I add extra ultra clear. I mentioned that I was using white from Pro Tec....that was false. I have been using white from Eastwood car catalog because I get it at a discount, along with the ultra clear. Never had issues with it. When I was scopping it out of the plastic jar, I thought it was heavy compared to my other whiter. Most times, pink is my issue, but I only use white in the fluid bed anymore, and use the brush for the other colors.

Anyone try this super glow powder paint? Are you using a white base coat first. Had some customer request for it.

I got a pound to try, and will never do it again. It is the only white powder I have used that I have the dreaded volcanos with. What a mess! Maybe the protec is worth the extra money after all. Is everyone happy with the "Powder by the pound" site? May have to try that.

I'm not sure what my temps are on high. I cheap Harbor freight one that high is 12 watts if I remember right. I use a torch for anything 2 oz. and over.

Another user of U-Line

When I rough melt the wheel weights with the soft lead, I do it outside, and in a large cast iron pot. Atleast 50#s at a time. When I toss the wax in, it doesn't always catch fire right away, so I use my long handled ladle to stir it. Man am I glad the thing has a 2 foot long handle lol. I pops on fire then.

If your mold is hot enough, just let the hook sit inthe mold for 10 seconds before you do the next pour. If I am having that issue, I put the hook in, close it, then cut the sprue off the one I just poured. That gives the hook enoug time to heat up. I do this with up to 8/0 saltwater hooks, and I never need to do other than that. My work area is in the garage, and the hooks do get cold. I do have 2 molds that I have to tilt to pour better, and my Shad head mold, if it gets TO hot, it doesn't pour as well around the collar.