BLT

I have 2 molds that "need" soft lead. Other than that, I mix wheel weights with the good stuff. In the past 10 years of tackle making/selling, I have bought lead 1 time. Ballast weight for a boat, and paid $.50 a pound for 450 pounds. It was nice soft lead.

Your experience is just that, what happens and works for you is the way to go. On all the tackle making forums I go to, you are the first person I've ever seen that said that. Like I said, if it works for you, that is the way to go.

and there is a big difference between lunch bag and grocery brown bags for filters. Use the lunch bag if you are not. Some powders from certain companies do not play well. Its pink for me.

Synthetics will work, agreed, but I like the action better of bucktail. Nothing wrong with synthetics at all though. You ought to see what the big Chopper Blue fish do to deer tail at the beach lol. They cut through the wraps that hold the hair on lol.

Are you trolling, casting from shore, or sitting in a boat anchored up and just jigging up and down? Answers can vary depending on how you are fishing. Example, if sitting in an anchored boat, I would go with a Spro head because of how it is balanced. Trolling, I like something more of an inline. I am a bucktail fan, but opinions vary. I will second watching Mr. Skinner. I picked up several Flounder tips from watching his videos, but seeing where you live, I assume you are going after fresh water Stripers?

How long are the longest lures?

Won't spend the money because I have never needed one. Just because someone uses one, does not mean we all need one.

I also have painted several year old jigs with no issues. Put them in the cold toaster oven, turn it on @ 325 and let them in there for 25 minutes. I figure 10 for the slow heat up, 15 for the cure.

If you can get it shipped, check out Do-it web site. They sell large ladles.

I like that one. Thanks!

There is a good you tube video on this critter. I may get one myself. Thanks!

Ok, for some reason, I can get on it now. Thanks all.

Anyone know if this place is still open for business? Haven't been able to get onto the website.

What is the max size hook you will be using? This makes a difference. There is a difference between a rotating vise, and a rotary vise. Rotary keeps the hook level as you spin it around, where a rotating vise will not keep it level. (Do not mean to treat you dumb, just don't know what you know). I am a fan of the anvil Apex rotating vise. Found really good prices on them on Amazon. The jaws have 2 different grooves in them for small and large hooks. They have the plain rotating, and a true rotary. I have tied 1000's of hooks and jigs with it. I also have another vise that is a true rotary, and for me it was money I didn't need to spend. I just don't need a true rotary. If you have a Bass Pro shop near you, sit down at one of their desk and size them up. google to see if there is a fly tying group in your area. Maybe they will let you in to look/test different vises. Good luck

Min wax Polycrylic clear coat. Brush a coat or 2 on. No mixing, very fast and cheap. Fish them in saltwater and the stuff holds up. Gloss or matte. Use it for thread lock for tying hair jigs also.

750 for good lead, 800 or so for wheel weights. For the 3/8 and below, good lead, anything above that gets a little "bad" lead mixed in to stretch it out. Have to watch using to much "bad" lead, because jigs will not weigh what the mold reads they should be.

I would like to know also, wouldn't mind having some of these.

The flare is popular in some areas for Cobia fishing. Have seen several custom Squid head molds for this, and the feathers natural bends going all different directions so the flare is really pronounced. Tackle shop owner I deal with just showed me a picture of one they used at the "Outer Banks" off the coast of the Carolina's last week. Not weedless though.

Doubt it is a saltwater jig, they don't use weed guards that I have ever seen in my area.

If this is the newer version, I don't think many/any people here have that one. Never have that issue with the old one.

Don't remember because it was years ago.....but it must not have been to bad because I probably would remembered that.

My RCBS has dripped for several years now. Plunger is probably worn that it won't seal any more. I keep a meatloaf pan under it to control the few drips I do get. Can still get the mold under there with the pan there.

TJ is good people also. My first fluid bed came from him. About 7 years later, and many, many 1000's of jigs later, still using the one from him. Should call him for more filter material.

I would love to hear the results if you do buy it. I have the Badger sandblaster kit. Used it one time and it did work well. Don't know why I don't use it anymore lol. I got it a couple years ago for only $29 on sale. https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-260-3-Abrasive/dp/B000IG2VEO I SHOULD buy 2 more, and I think H.F. has an air manifold so you can hook up several air brushes at one time for multi colors.

I flux to get more dirt out of the lead so the spout stays clean. Not pre heating molds, if it works for you, then that's the right way to do it. Myself, doing some "pre pours" to heat up the mold to a good temp works for us. You have to consider the ladle pour speed versus the pour speed/flow rate of a bottom feed pot. That makes the playing field different also. I use the ladle at times when using my Reading molds for inline/trolling sinkers. I don't care much for these 2 piece Reading molds lol.