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Everything posted by Waterlogged
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RBASS57, Krylon is great paint but it's not a requirement that you to use it. I recommend white Krylon primer base coat because it dries fast but as far as colors go, you can use anything. As a general rule: the cheaper it is, the longer it takes to dry. The hardest part about rattle cannin' is the waiting. Auto parts stores have cool & unique metallic colors. Hobby stores, like Michael's, have gold and silver glitter sprays and nice pearl colors. Experiment, play around and have fun with it. That's what this game is all about.
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The Crappie - A TU right of passage. Anyone who is anyone has a crappie in their gallery so here is my attempt. - Maple wood - Stainless screw eyes - 7/0 treble hooks - Polycarb lip - Createx paints - Devcon 2T epoxy I left the hook off the back to give the tail some extra wiggle. Hopefully leaving a hook off the back won't come back and bite me in the tail! We'll see I guess.
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Very unique mouth shape unlike anything I've seen. I agree with fatfingers - hats off to you for trying to make something that does not exist on the open market . A popper style bait that can be worked in rough water is unheard of. Poppers here in the states are generally used only on dead calm water. Great concept and nice thinking outside of the box! I want to build one for muskies but that cupped mouth shape looks crazy - advanced woodworking for sure!
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Those cylindrical baits can be tough to get going side to side. That's why crankbaits are generally thinner stock with a tall profile versus round bodied like you have - it has something to do with the hydro-dynamics and the lip. This is why Grandmas, Jakes, Big Games and Slammers are so good - they all have similar shape and profile. You're paint job and finish sure look nice so keep tinkering with it. Take a look at a Bucher Depth Raider on Rollie and Helen's site - it has a similar body shape to yours. When comparing, look at the lip. Maybe the lip angle/size/position could be adjusted a bit? Good luck - I know it's heartbreaking to get a bait to this level of finish only to find that it does not work the way you want it to. We've all been there. If you get it working, let us know what you did.
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A table saw works great because you can cut the slot at any angle - slight angle for shallow running and more extreme angle for deep divers. Like others have already said, cut while the stock is still flat on the bottom and sandwich your bait piece between 2 pieces of scrap wood for a clean cut with no splintering. Also, the thickness of the blade will cause a perfectly uniform cut every time. Then, you just have to find a Lexan thickness that matches your saw blade thickness and you're good to go! -Don
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To remove unwanted epoxy from a Lexan lip: If you remove your masking tape and find fingerprints or light epoxy that has slipped under the tape, I've found that rubbing alcohol on a q-tip will clean up most mistakes.
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The painting on the green one is very unique. Looks like you wrapped it in rubber bands before applying the green paint. Gives it nice bars but at irregular angles and also varying degrees of thickness. If this is what you did then I take my hat off to you. I really like low tech deco methods - sometimes they produce great results like yours. I only wish I'd thought of it first! Very nice. -Don
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I've found that E-tex is good if you are coating multiple baits because of its slow cure time but I've recently made the switch to Devcon 2 Ton and I'm very happy with it. It's much less messy (no dripping) and cures in about 30 minutes - perfect for doing one or two baits at a time. Not trying to talk you out of E-tex of course - just my observation.
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I've made a few spray can baits in the past but I'm new at this airbrush stuff. Anyway, I re-painted this Super Shad Rap with my new Badger 360. All colors are Createx paints. Let me ask you this: I put a coat of Minwax spray polyurethane over the top to seal the paint. Do you think this enough or will I need to use a coat of 2 ton epoxy to protect the paint and prevent it from washing off? Everything I've read on this site suggests that I need to use 2 ton epoxy but I don't want it to effect the action. Is spray poly enough? -Thanks!
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