hazmail

Hoki--Ned------Not many secrets here- Never be afraid to ask anything on L/L, the lure "brains trust" of the world in on here and most guys are willing to help . I have only made two of these and really it's easy-- If you know how to make and apply a 'waterslide decal' (called 'Transfer' here) just do it the same, BUT you need to add some sort of water based 'medium' to the water to make the feather stick - if you have never done this, Google "water slide decals how to". Adding "Water based mediums" -- matte is best??? take your pick of brands, depends on the brand of paint you like to use, they are pretty much the same anyway. Oh yeah sorry Hoki, missed that Q, "how do you get a feather design on a bait"??-It's not a feather design, it is a feather, you can buy by the bag, from the fly fishing shop. Needs at least 3 coats of epoxy clear to cover all the high spots (quill etc)--watch out for air bubbles when laying it out. Pete

Gee there is some 'Od Boys' in this thread-------Sorry - I Missed the Xmas thing, BUT ---- Happy New Year, one and all. Pete

Thanks Jerry-----------------Steve thanks also - memory has gone, I have a bag full in the shed but too lazy to have a look, bought them when I was in U.K last year--amazing the stuff they kill / have over there. Pete

Sorry for the delay, been away for Xmas, hope you all had a good one. Thanks Ben, it's only taken about 4 years and still not perfect. Brent--Yes it is a feather, forget which bird. Mark - although the lip is curved the rear end is flat to fit the precut slot so you can just turn the lip over for a different depth /effect. These are about 27mm long (1 - 1/16" ) Pete

Yep Mark it does work (cupping), I still use either convex or concave - just finished a new die (Mach # which took about 130 blanks to get it right. I have not tried this but maybe try and slump some over a piece of pipe in the oven @ about 180-200 C some bakeing paper may be handy. All mine are set a 17mm length (apx 3/4") and the Convex lips will go to 2.4 M (8'). Concave lips @ same dimensions (green lure) go to 5m (15') @ a slow troll. Worth a trial I think. Pete

Great vid Dave--I appreciate your time here, must have taken a heap of video to get this edited version. Also makes a great step by 'step by step' vid for beginners. Keep it up mate. Pete

Thanks Bob, great info and for a change relativaly easy for us layman to grasp. Pete

H.A Been using this for years - Fill with the appropiate thinner for the paint in use, stand the tip in this every time you pause in spraying, it should eat the paint off the tip---Just remember to give the 'brush' a quick blast before you start spraying to blow off the drops. I used a tapered nozzle / cap, off a small 'silicone sealant' tube. Pete

Try here J . http://www.tacklemaking.com/default.php?pageID=98 Pete

Me too, but I'm something like 14,000 miles away --Jerry is usually pretty quick though. Pete

Mac- not too sure about this NEW stuff (Solarez Polyeurothane)), but when I was making surfboards 40 years ago , wax was always a problem, as the resin cured the wax rose and left a thin coating on the surface. What you are doing is probably correct, but something like 'Shellite' or 'Prepsol' MAY be better, anyway whatever you want to call it, use something to remove wax and grease like panel sprayers use (and a light sand does not hurt either). Pete

Only you would have the time, patience and persistance to try this Mark- I like the two balls with one always off center, great lateral thinking. Thanks for shareing. Pete

SS - I used to vacuum Propionate a few years back (after shaping a blank), worked pretty well, just light sand and then undercoat-- Problem was the propionate went in a fair bit and took a week to "gass off", if you sealed it too soon it would blister everything above it. The secret is to immerse the blanks completely, suck a vacuum, then leaving blanks submersed release the vacuum and let normal air pressure force the brew into the wood (replacing evecuated air) for about 15 min, you would be amazed how much air the vacuum removes from the wood - don't fill the jar with your brew, leave about 20% for the evacuated air bubbles. Pete

CLM-- Been waiting for the Epoxy (3- 4 weeks), checked out PayPal today and they have refunded $'s, " they don't ship outside U.S" - sorry but I can't shed any light on how it works. Pete

BaZ - see 'Thermoforming' and even @ 1mm you will need some good suck. http://www.perspex.c...lycarbonate.pdf Pete

Love your persistance Nath, beautifull result, Phil would love this--I just have to say the movie was NOT made in your farm dam, it would have had a fish hanging off it . Great work and unique action. Pete

John--Celuka is the original name (Dupont or 3M I think)--also try googling "expanded PVC sheet australia"- OR if you have some large scale printers in your area, try them as they make billboards out of it- also 'Plastic suppliers' (Polycarbonate, perspex etc)-----ask for 'expanded PVC sheet', they will know what you are talking about - ( @ apx $180 per 15mm sheet) I have some bits here, but I'm thinking they might not be enough. Like steve I'm a bit over it, but for saltwater toothies and BREAM this stuff is indestructable compared to wood. Pete

Yep,I ordered some of this a few days back, figured I should stay with resin I know a little about, I believe Devcon, AFC, E-Tex etc are all epoxie's and as we know they all have great gloss compared to any polyester resin. Whatever we use here, the UV cure should be a real bonus, and as someone said, someone will figure out how to level, paint, spray and cure it to a gloss Pete

HUUUUUMMM-that lure is really nice Ben. Pete

Not quite an 'as older hand' Gene, but still lurking, looking and learning mate- Hows retirement treating you??. Pete

Made and tried these trolling on a 8cm lure (3 1/4"), useless and decreased the action--BUT if you change the speed (twitch the rod tip) the action does become random and erratic-----------got me thinking this is where one of these, teamed up with a "Jig A Jig" might be a killer--for trolling anyway . Pete

P.M sent Rick. Ben /Gary--Me too, no idea where Joe Ma Guires Pub is either--- the 'Croc' incident is by no means unusual, I was up there (Northern Territory) recently and a mate fell out of the boat trying to retrieve a lure in a tree- it was truly a religious experience, watching a man walk on water . Pete

Sorry Mark, missed your reply / question. Yes 'sides down' (convex) is a slower action and shallower lure. Pete

Craig--don't sell / cast any of those lures if they are made with wood $$$$$$$$$$$$$$--- Probably hard to believe but they do make Bass lures here (similar fish to your Bass, but a nicer colour - http://www.ausbass.com/bass.asp ). Native's in rivers, hard to find and grow to about 3lb ( http://en.wikipedia....lian_bass_2.jpg, ) in dams (a recent introduction) they grow to who knows yet, but from what I have seen, not unusual to maybe 5- 8lb-- Big lures -big fish, this makes a Murry Cod look small " I recently caught this Barramundi on the Peel river across from Joe Maguires pub The fish weighed 113kg's (254 lbs) and unfortunately, could not be released as a crocodile attacked it when they had the fish boatside. "

Hi Mark-- the concave is a wide, slow action and goes to 7-8' (slow troll)- The concave is a tight/ fast action and goes to about15' (slow troll) ---before forming the original flat lip would be somewhere in between--I like it because you can use the same lip for different actions/depths, just turn it upside down. LaSnapse--thanks for the compliament, it is appreciated.--- If you click on 'Hazmail' and then click 'gallery', there are a lot of pictures there, mostly older ones. Pete