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hazmail

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Everything posted by hazmail

  1. "redg8r" has a great Video tute on vacuum forming here somewhere, probably posted about 2010. Pete
  2. Have you tried a vacuum instead??, This will extract air out of anything, I often use it to get air out of, and the sealer deeper into wood, I use a pickle jar, works pretty good. Just a thought ?? Pete
  3. Also make sure the Prop is cured - The prop I have used (disolved in lacquer thinners) takes weeks to cure right through, especially 5 coats --sniff it, if you can smell it, it's still cureing, so the solvent gassing off will probably effect the top coat. This solvent has to escape somewhere so it makes small 'windows' in the epoxy ("fisheyes") and also would probably dilute the epoxy on the way through maybe wrecking the chemistry of the top coating. Just another thing to check mate. Pete
  4. This is the other one, smaller @ 5cm (2") The belly of larger 8cm lure, feathers can be plainly seen underneath . Pete
  5. Hoki--Ned------Not many secrets here- Never be afraid to ask anything on L/L, the lure "brains trust" of the world in on here and most guys are willing to help . I have only made two of these and really it's easy-- If you know how to make and apply a 'waterslide decal' (called 'Transfer' here) just do it the same, BUT you need to add some sort of water based 'medium' to the water to make the feather stick - if you have never done this, Google "water slide decals how to". Adding "Water based mediums" -- matte is best??? take your pick of brands, depends on the brand of paint you like to use, they are pretty much the same anyway. Oh yeah sorry Hoki, missed that Q, "how do you get a feather design on a bait"??-It's not a feather design, it is a feather, you can buy by the bag, from the fly fishing shop. Needs at least 3 coats of epoxy clear to cover all the high spots (quill etc)--watch out for air bubbles when laying it out. Pete
  6. Gee there is some 'Od Boys' in this thread-------Sorry - I Missed the Xmas thing, BUT ---- Happy New Year, one and all. Pete
  7. Thanks Jerry-----------------Steve thanks also - memory has gone, I have a bag full in the shed but too lazy to have a look, bought them when I was in U.K last year--amazing the stuff they kill / have over there. Pete
  8. Sorry for the delay, been away for Xmas, hope you all had a good one. Thanks Ben, it's only taken about 4 years and still not perfect. Brent--Yes it is a feather, forget which bird. Mark - although the lip is curved the rear end is flat to fit the precut slot so you can just turn the lip over for a different depth /effect. These are about 27mm long (1 - 1/16" ) Pete
  9. Yep Mark it does work (cupping), I still use either convex or concave - just finished a new die (Mach # which took about 130 blanks to get it right. I have not tried this but maybe try and slump some over a piece of pipe in the oven @ about 180-200 C some bakeing paper may be handy. All mine are set a 17mm length (apx 3/4") and the Convex lips will go to 2.4 M (8'). Concave lips @ same dimensions (green lure) go to 5m (15') @ a slow troll. Worth a trial I think. Pete
  10. Great vid Dave--I appreciate your time here, must have taken a heap of video to get this edited version. Also makes a great step by 'step by step' vid for beginners. Keep it up mate. Pete
  11. Thanks Bob, great info and for a change relativaly easy for us layman to grasp. Pete
  12. H.A Been using this for years - Fill with the appropiate thinner for the paint in use, stand the tip in this every time you pause in spraying, it should eat the paint off the tip---Just remember to give the 'brush' a quick blast before you start spraying to blow off the drops. I used a tapered nozzle / cap, off a small 'silicone sealant' tube. Pete
  13. Try here J . http://www.tacklemaking.com/default.php?pageID=98 Pete
  14. Me too, but I'm something like 14,000 miles away --Jerry is usually pretty quick though. Pete
  15. Mac- not too sure about this NEW stuff (Solarez Polyeurothane)), but when I was making surfboards 40 years ago , wax was always a problem, as the resin cured the wax rose and left a thin coating on the surface. What you are doing is probably correct, but something like 'Shellite' or 'Prepsol' MAY be better, anyway whatever you want to call it, use something to remove wax and grease like panel sprayers use (and a light sand does not hurt either). Pete
  16. Only you would have the time, patience and persistance to try this Mark- I like the two balls with one always off center, great lateral thinking. Thanks for shareing. Pete
  17. SS - I used to vacuum Propionate a few years back (after shaping a blank), worked pretty well, just light sand and then undercoat-- Problem was the propionate went in a fair bit and took a week to "gass off", if you sealed it too soon it would blister everything above it. The secret is to immerse the blanks completely, suck a vacuum, then leaving blanks submersed release the vacuum and let normal air pressure force the brew into the wood (replacing evecuated air) for about 15 min, you would be amazed how much air the vacuum removes from the wood - don't fill the jar with your brew, leave about 20% for the evacuated air bubbles. Pete
  18. CLM-- Been waiting for the Epoxy (3- 4 weeks), checked out PayPal today and they have refunded $'s, " they don't ship outside U.S" - sorry but I can't shed any light on how it works. Pete
  19. BaZ - see 'Thermoforming' and even @ 1mm you will need some good suck. http://www.perspex.c...lycarbonate.pdf Pete
  20. Love your persistance Nath, beautifull result, Phil would love this--I just have to say the movie was NOT made in your farm dam, it would have had a fish hanging off it . Great work and unique action. Pete
  21. John--Celuka is the original name (Dupont or 3M I think)--also try googling "expanded PVC sheet australia"- OR if you have some large scale printers in your area, try them as they make billboards out of it- also 'Plastic suppliers' (Polycarbonate, perspex etc)-----ask for 'expanded PVC sheet', they will know what you are talking about - ( @ apx $180 per 15mm sheet) I have some bits here, but I'm thinking they might not be enough. Like steve I'm a bit over it, but for saltwater toothies and BREAM this stuff is indestructable compared to wood. Pete
  22. Yep,I ordered some of this a few days back, figured I should stay with resin I know a little about, I believe Devcon, AFC, E-Tex etc are all epoxie's and as we know they all have great gloss compared to any polyester resin. Whatever we use here, the UV cure should be a real bonus, and as someone said, someone will figure out how to level, paint, spray and cure it to a gloss Pete
  23. hazmail

    Gold Foil

    HUUUUUMMM-that lure is really nice Ben. Pete
  24. Not quite an 'as older hand' Gene, but still lurking, looking and learning mate- Hows retirement treating you??. Pete
  25. Made and tried these trolling on a 8cm lure (3 1/4"), useless and decreased the action--BUT if you change the speed (twitch the rod tip) the action does become random and erratic-----------got me thinking this is where one of these, teamed up with a "Jig A Jig" might be a killer--for trolling anyway . Pete
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