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Milia "sometimes the finished lure isn't even what I thought I was going to be when I started carving it....what about you guys ?" Signs of a good mind here, maybe even an artist Milia, I wish I could do that!!! - I just set a target and head for it, which sometimes blinds me to being able to rectify faults before they happen, so I finish up with a lot of blanks which turn into 'duds'. Anyway, show us those 'babies'.Pete

The CLEARS I use (and probably any other brand ) can be mixed to create the desired colour, but I prefer to spray them in layers, this way you get a graduated colour mix rather than going one colour to another. Pete

I have recently gone from weight to volume measuring and the epoxy sets quicker and harder without that not quite cured feel. BUT as Bob says if you don't mix it properly you will get this anyway.Pete

hybrideye- again sounds like you have all the gear to get you going, BUT also record all you do, weight, length, where you weighted it, lip angle and length etc etc - Also make some templates as you go, that way you can repeat the performance shape etc, even if your first one does not work, you will have a 'yardstick' and know what you had and where to start to rectify any faults, I spent years NOT doing this, and years trying to repeat that elusive 'magic lure action' and I'm still looking - good luck.pete

Just from one F/F to another, I have never used an 'Iwata Revolution', but I suspect you can change needle size (within reason), but you probably would have to buy the corresponding size 'tip', so you buy a 3mm needle and tip and a 2mm needle and tip. The luxury of two bodies at half the cost - it would not cost a lot to find out.pete

I thought I had (for me ) the perfect timber for my lures, I used MDF and sealed them with Prop then cleared them with Etex, this stuff worked really nice and the finish was the best I have ever done - problem was I was catching fish with them, but the lures were growing as I looked at them - they had a leak and I think the problem was the Prop (and me), I had not let it dry for long enough so it gassed off in the sun and broke the seal, never seen 'wood' expand so quickly. I don't use MDF any more and I let the prop 'gas off' for about 36 hours before I do anything else with it, it's great stuff but you have to let the wood give up all the thinners before painting/sealing/top-coating. I really know how you feel, hang in there.pete

Marlake-- The guy who done those lines and dots is probably in an asylum- he was locked in a room for three months until he could produce a small sheet of paper with perfect lines and dots, they photo copied and reduced it, then sold copies to all the other airbrush manufacturers and made a fortune- It's amazing what you can do with a printer/photocopier. Save yourself some frustration and your marriage, do as Bob says and make some stencils. I'm also a sceptic.pete

About three.pete

'Dope under 'D2T' under 'Dick Nites Clear Kote' with a final coat of 'Future' just to keep everything on the up and up. If we knew, this forum would not exist.pete

You're only as old as the lure you feel!!!!Have a good one. Pete

Have one for me spoopa.pete

Ben I am pretty sure it will be xylene - never used D,N because we cannot fly it over, but there are similar moisture cure products around - I have one here that is NOT moisture cure but has pretty much exactly the same properties (except the drying problem) but it is twice the price.pete

Ben - like you say whatever you use it would save a lot of problems if it were collapsable, and also has to withstand the thinners used in D.N etc, which I think if it is the same stuff I have used is xylene, not too sure weather rubber would stand up to this - I was thinking along the lines of the small plastic bags used in 'wine casks', which at least stand up to the acid in wine. We just have to be game enough to waste $50 on a can to find out???.pete

Yep I used to use the cordless drill but 'Ball's' method is the best I have seen, perfect loops and dead straight spirals - If you can get your hands onto some those 'safety wire' pliers, you get the same result, I found the wire ahs to be on the soft side though.pete

Like Bob is saying, get a slow cure epoxy (30 min) and I think 'Loktite' does make one but have never used it. I also have been using epoxy (D2T 30 min) for an undercoat and as I have been building a couple of new rods recently I decided to see what 'AftCote' is like for a top coat finish . The D2T gives a nice, although brittle, firm/smooth base to work on (using PVC foam) and as a top coat the 'AftCote' is a lot more flexible, shatter proof and scratch resist, and gives IMO, a superb clear top coat which flows right out and NO bubbles - the biggest drawback is the cure time (apx 8 hrs to touch)- also no matter what they say about epoxies, this stuff also yellows just like all the others, but it's a very slow process compared to some. As for durability, the jury is still out on how it handles teeth/hook rash etc.Pete

Nathan I still havn't got one of these, but waiting patiently. Congratulations to all of you - I do have a nice calle Ellie though, shes Swedish which is really bizarre trying to have a conversation with her in that funny language. pete