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Hey Jonister, Just a warning--watch out for the cheap copies of ''Stump Jumpers'', OR ''Down Under - Boomerangs'' some made in China @ about $10. I have a couple here (plastic), if you want a wooden original "S/Jumper" / '' Boomerangs'' etc, they sell in the 100's even 1000 of $'s. BUT there are plenty of other brand named or hobby makers here who make so called ''Cod Lures''- Most are horizontally very wide, and shallow in depth which gives them stability and a very wide action, all seem to have to have a very large lip, preferably made of aluminum, not so much poly carbonate, and most are deep divers, from about 15' to 30' (claimed) -- Here are some examples of 'Power Lures", very nice lures and very fish-able/ collectable today, some @ about 6"-8" total length. http://www.lurelovers.com/forum/power-lures_topic6261.html Here is a great site with just about all Australian lures ever made (historical and modern day) including current "Power Lures", just scroll down, it's alphabetical. https://www.lurehuboz.com/aus-o---q.php AND the whole story of ''Stump Jumper" for you - https://www.lurehuboz.com/jjs.php Pete

Hi Todd--I haven't made a balsa lure for years BUT I have made many 2 piece lures out of harder timbers here-- You just use ''double sided tape'' and press the 2 parts together, don't tape the whole piece just use a few small tabs here and there and then you will be able to prize them apart easily (heating it just makes it easier), the tape will just roll off when you have them separated. Pete

Well said Skeeter Here on TU is where I moved into 21st century lure building. Pete

Yes ''JawjaBoy'', I think I know how you feel, I worked out a while back, I have been making lures since 1978-9 and still fiddling with wood - funny though, in that time most other things I got sick of. Pete

All good here Vince, I'm thinking it would be a bit cool up where you are --Its Summer here but you wouldn't know it, has been raining for the past week. I have been looking/reading about Detroit rising from the ashes, seems to be some real innovation there, so maybe I might come across and have a look next spring (your spring), so if I do I will certainly make it a point to drop by mate. When talking about Russian innovation, I was talking more about anything they need to make, not necessarily lures--Like I said it amazes me how they (Russians) can make something out of nothing,, maybe because they have had to for so long !! ''Sonoman'' don't look too closely at us, we seem to have the same problem here, ''Murray Cod'' lures haven't changed in 30 years, some say because they work. Although I don't fish for them much, I say we should be trying something like BIG ''Musky'' lures on them--It took 15 -20 years for them to get onto using spinner baits here, which have been very successful, so maybe in another 20 years we might try some whopping ''Musky'' style divers Maybe I should TRY and make some . Heaven Forbid. Pete

Great topic, and without looking too deep it seems all the ''old heads'' are still coming up with the ideas. Great to see your post Vince, long time no hear --I have to agree with most of what is above and all of Vince's post--From the outside looking in, it seems to me nothing much has changed since I joined in 2007 EXCEPT, "Swim-baits", what a marvelous thing, once mastered, which took me many months, it was like a whole new field in lure making-- BUT over here and elsewhere (Italy, even Russia, Brazil, Japan etc) there seems to be a real renascence in colors, shapes, finishes and ACTIONS in some of the newer lures-- I think we probably owe a lot to you guys for some of the lacquers, epoxies and finishes that seem to have come out of the U.S, but wood is still wood and has to be shaped, plastic has to be printed or molded into a pre-planned shapes, this is I think is where a lot of the innovation occurs, "because it works'', just isn't good enough anymore, otherwise we would still be using wommera's or shooting cross bows. IT'S all there to copy and stimulate new ideas if you want, it has always been the case, BUT it seems the U.S is always looking inward for new ideas and invariably sometimes misses out on what the rest of the planet offers- It seems to me this has been the case since 1946 when the whole world was looking inward ( at the U.S) , times have changed, most of the planet is doing their own thing now, pinched your ideas and have moved on, now we are all looking at one another and not necessarily the U.S- Have a (real) look at China and keep an eye on India, there is no comparison to where we have been and where they are going- no matter what our leaders tell us. Get on Google (or uTube) and check out some of the other lure forums around the world, it will keep you reading late into the night, I love Russian innovation, literally something out of nothing, and thank god for ''Translate''. There is really nothing new out there, but there will be something different---AND as for paint and color, I and many others still drool at some of your creations Vince. Pete

Just found this Bob, some more info on resin characteristics etc, UV, epoxy and polyester, which may be usefull--------- It's a Japanese company but has heaps of info on all sorts of glue /resins and their problems/cures, including ''super glues'' https://www.threebond.co.jp/en/technical/seminar/ucuringvresin.html Pete

Good to hear you have done this Chuck but I have to agree with ''Eyecatcher'', you need to watch the sparks coming off the armature in those motors, you can use a sealed motor (no sparks) out of a gas furnace fan OR evaproative cooler fan (''swamp box'') You can pick them up anywhere for next to zero $'s AND they move heaps more air. Good luck with it. Pete

Nice setup Gino- we have the same problem here 38C in the summer -6C in winter. I have been using a 100 W spot lamp on a timer for a few years now, it raises the temp by about 20C in winter, I put it in my spray booth and everything is nice and warm and great for curing epoxy on a cold night. I like your thermostat/fan idea, saves on power and we get a constant temp. Well done . Pete

I think we went through this bead thing years ago Nath, never ever thought they would stand up to a good fish, BUT those poundage's quoted in your attachment has certainly changed my mind. Thanks for posting . Pete

Dan-- Don't get me wrong, we do need to protect ourselves, especially with the '' 2 Pak'' clears etc. The respirators I have (similar or same as you quoted) are hanging on the shed wall, I never throw anything out . There a a lot of plans for ''spray booths'' See Google images) on the web, I think the main thing is to have a fan system with a sealed motor, commonly found in oil and gas heater fans, ''evaporative cooler'' fan motors are also sealed and all are readily scavanged from these appliances- another thing also in common with being sealed is they are all ''pelton fans'''(I think you all call the squirrel cage fans there) which are relatively slow revving but move quite a bit of air--- Sealed motors need to be used to stop 'flash back' when using thinners based paints--BIG Bang if you don't. Hope this is of some help. ----------------Pete

I have a few of these, I wore them until it got hot (summer) and that was the end of them, very uncomfortable -- build yourself a spray booth and save your money, all you need is some ply and a trashed gas heater fan and some power. Pete

Yep ! I have mine in my spray booth, just close the sliding poly carbonate door and turn on a 100w spot light, heats it to 20c in winter and about 30c in summer--(usually turn it on at night), has a timer on the power cord so it turns off after a few hours---Good for drying primer etc too. Pete

Just found this Bob , nice one, and thanks for doing the legwork. Pete

You can get plastic ''pipettes'' for a few cents each on ''the bay'', BUT you might have to buy a 100--very handy- I use them all the time and they are immune to most solvents. Look I even found some-- https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xplastic+pipetts.TRS0&_nkw=plastic+pipetts&_sacat=0 Pete

I think the residue thinners you originally cleaned it with is turning the ''Createx'' (water base) to a gloopy plastic which then blocks the ''tip''. Always--After cleaning with thinners, flush with acetone or alcohol and then water before adding any water based paint. Thinners and water based are not compatible. Solution would be to clean with acetone like everyone is saying (backflush etc) and then a quick flush with alcohol, then another quick flush with some water---I cross over paints all the time and this is what I have to do, its a pain but sometimes incompatible paints give some good effects. Pete

No problem Harry- another plus I forgot is a convex lip (curve up ) tends to shed the weed etc---which as we all know is a never ending problem when trolling. Have fun with it. Pete

fshng2-- I have probably bent around 500 lips over the past few years and have found ''rice oil'' to be the best (it has highest heat range so it smokes less), the oil needs to be about 182-1823 C ----------''Lexan'' (poly-carbonate) is solid up to about 180C and it starts to melt at about 186-188C. You can use a bent lip either way up too (concave or convex) which will give 2 different actions and depths, and out of one bib ''blank type'' you can make/have flat, concave or convex - Let us know how you go--Pete

Nice Dave, long and slender, a yellow/ black ''Hornet'' it's my favorite lure colour-- Well done mate . Pete

Baz--I think you may be starting at the wrong end of the process ?? Get the required amount your medium (I'm assuming it's water based) and add DISTILLED water until your medium is close to thickness you want for spraying, then add green pigment (or paint ) and mix in until you get the color you like--you may need to test this at stages, simply take samples and dry them (with a heat gun) to get the color intensity you want--thin again to desired viscosity for your brush and spray away. It's the same with any medium for C/Colors, add the color to the medium, NOT the medium to the color, this makes the colors semi opaque or ''clear''. Pete

Had forgot all about this post--2009 ??? This is what I do to get the ''rib and cap'' marks out of the used corks, they come out round and square on the ends, and slightly larger in diameter---nearly like new. I get a big pot of water (in the shed preferably) and about 1/4 fill with water, boil it, then throw all your corks in and turn the water DOWN to simmer, WITH a lid on for about 15 min-- Don't fill the pot with corks , they will expand push the lid off. When you think you have got the best shape, drain the hot water and place them on a cake grate (WARNING they will be hot), then put them in the sun for a few days to dry. WARNING--don't do this inside the house, your wife / partner will crack, the stale Champagne and hot cork are a pretty smelly. Pete

I have not been here that long, but in your post some of those names jogged my memory, one was Hiro with whom I used to receive and send PM's occasionally--Every time I think of, or see something about Japanese lures I wonder if he was killed in that tsunami/ earthquake all those years back, as I have not heard of him since that time--Hiro used to fish the coastal lakes in a kayak/canoe, (on the East coast I think)--Anyway I hope not, too many of these ''old timers'' have just disappeared and some too soon have passed away -- Hoping Hiro just got sick of me /us . I know ''LaPala'' is still around, in Asia somewhere. ''Jeff Thompson'' used to play cricket here in the 70's, world class fast bowler . Pete

Of course---thanks mate . Pete

Musky Glenn --Looks genuine to me, BUT I thought you were buying a ''hand made lure'' not a plastic, so have never heard of him. I looked at his ebay site and it say's ''NIP'' which I am assuming ''means not in package ???'', also, he only ships within Australia, but I would send an email and ask if he ships O/S, a lot of times this is what I have done and usually find they will ship no problem, just extra postage cost (from US to me in Au) unless you buy them in numbers which would cut the cost a bit--I also note they have them on Amazon, so maybe it's a bit cheaper for you to buy from there. hope this helped . Pete

Musky Glenn -What's this guys name (ebay name), I will check it out for you, might even know him as I have spent a month there fishing, twice in the past 3 years- they do make some nice Trout lures down there. I buy from the U.S all the time, never had a problem (bar one), postage from here is pretty much exactly the same as from U.S, run by the Government pretty reliable AND we just got rid of our version of 'Donald' . Pete