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Everything posted by hazmail
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When you see their Joy it makes it all worth it, and like you say, it's a heap of fun. Pete
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Mark, I'm feeling for you here-------I'm thinking the ratio between the thin and wide bait to the SAME bib width -- the thinner bait has marginally more bib width on either side compared to it's body width, also less buoyancy (resistance) on these comparatively narrower sides. ???? .Which in my old mind may cause a roll.. I'm making (trying to) a new shape at the moment and am having similar problems, although in my case I think it's too much wood on the bottom, I have plenty of ''X'' and a wild roll even with some ballast, no matter where I put it , it all sucks your brain mate. Pete
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Exactly Jonister--If you get it right and remove the paint when it starts to ''crinkle'' (maybe brush it off with the same thinners you use) then give it a quick dip in the same clean thinners again you will have no paint and a perfect glossy plastic and it will harden up again---Just don't touch it with your fingers. ] Dale--after a few hours things will get going, check it every hour - things have a tendency to accelerate when it starts working !!!! Pete
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Acetone is pretty savage but at least it removed the paint--Obviously it's metallic underneath, just leave it a while as the chrome must be glued on with something--I have been using it lately (with thinners) to remove gold leaf, it's all about timing . Pete
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Jonister, also consider "fuming", this is a process they use to remove layers of paint from old paintings, saw it done years ago when working as a picture framer-- You hang the object on a jar lid and add a small amount of solvent to the jar (attach the lid without the object being immersed in the solvent) until you find the right one to dissolve the top coating, start with turps and work through alcohol, thinners and on to acetone and MEK etc until you find something that will dissolve the coating-- Because it's only fumes attacking the coating and not a liquid, it's pretty mild (and slow). How much time have you got?? I often use this to clean out an air brush overnight---this is good to strip back plastic lures, BUT keep an eye on it. Pete
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Sorry Dale, I called it ''gold leaf'', it's metal leaf (silver or gold color)-- Real ''Gold '' would add $25 to the cost of a lure ---- Pete
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Here is an example of some silver leaf scales, nearly as good as chrome BUT much more natural flash than chrome-- IMHO. Pete
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Like someone mentioned above, you can find anything in the ''archives" on T.U ------------- You just have to look !! http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/13053-polycarbonate-lexan-lip-former/ http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/11740-compound-bending-lexan/ Still using mine . Pete
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Mark--I seem to remember Roswell N.M had a past association with a famous UFO incident- Although it was supposed to have happened 2 years before we were born!!!!! Maybe she added some sort of radioactive isotope her dad gave her from this UFO crash---This may explain why it was so hot, AND melted the plastic cup-------------------- Sorry,,,,,I may have started another conspiracy theory here Pete
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Me too Ben, been trying heat shrink as a stencil but struggleing to get any wide enough. Pete
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Facinating stuff Angus, I saw your blog a few months back and was really impressed, love the shape you have come up with too- Wish I was younger and could get a handle on this I would be all over it. Then again I have so many irons in the fire around here I doubt weather I would ever get the time- I have spent about 18 months making / tweaking that ''copy lathe" and still at it , although it's entirely different I think I know what you must be going through--hang in there mate. Pete
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If you are using clear lacquers try mixing in some talc, or just buy some ''Matte Base'' and mix @ apx 30% ( @ 70% lacquer x 30% BASE) --if you do a search, ''matte lacquer'' or ''matt lures'' there should be a mile of info in here. Pete
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Well done Mark, as they say, a good day fishin always beats a good day at work. Pete
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Making Your Own Aluminum Mold For Pouring Belly Weights
hazmail replied to Lincoya's topic in Hardbait How To
Just discovered this beaut tute-- an elegant solution Gene and very well presented- Appreciate ALL the time you would have spent on this mate. Thanks --Pete -
Yes Mark, whatever you need to know is in here somewhere ----------- although over the years I have found some bits missing . Soak it up mate. Pete
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Increasing Roll And Swimming Action On Prototype Shad Crank
hazmail replied to DiametricD's topic in Hard Baits
Thanks Ben, I see it all now -- I have always done the opposite and hung the lure off a piece of cotton on the back (stuck on with a apiece of tape) , moving it along until lure hangs level --In the end it's the same result whichever way you go and as we are all saying, a good starting point . Pete -
Increasing Roll And Swimming Action On Prototype Shad Crank
hazmail replied to DiametricD's topic in Hard Baits
Trying to understand this 'Balance Beam' Ben,, --do you have a slot down the centre of the lure,?,, CONFUSED here. Pete -
Yes Dave, between the drill press and band saw I don't know how I coped with it-- I sometimes used my drill press for quite a few years as a lathe, until I finally bought a 'Mini Lathe', and use it about every second day. Pete
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Anthony- as Ben says , "super magnets" are the go here, just make sure you water proof them, with magnets, electrolysis is public enemy No1 here - I have been using them (3mm) with my snagless hook setup in salt water and had to seal them off with epoxy to stop any corrosion - fresh water would be less of a problem, but still a problem.. Pete
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Craig--could be that you are not allowing enough time for the glue/ glues to dry, a lot of glues shrink as they dry which puts a lot of tension on the material used, OR because it is now sealed with epoxy it is still ''gassing off'' which can cause bubbles to form under a top coat. Everything has to be dry before sealing it up !! Hope this helps. Pete
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Rapala and Nilsmaster (both from Finland --I think!!!) , these were my ''mentors'' back in the 70's-80's Tsurikichi - Here the larger Nilsmasters were renowned Barramundi catchers back then, and if you can buy them still are. Although balsa is not real durable, it is quick and easy to shape and allows you to make prototypes easily-- Just remember when you DO graduate to carving harder/ heavier wood, balsa which is also very buoyant generally will give you a lot more and different action than the heavier woods . Enjoy your journey. Pete
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I have used it on swim baits to 'free them up' a bit, also on twitch style and walk the dog baits, (anything that moves sideways)--as everyone is saying, the probability of cracking the epoxy when tuning is a big possibility. Pete
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Yeah mark, I have a shed full of ''intriguing looking'' stuff .. pete
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