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Thanks guys, for all the cures, I usually do prime the paint with Pastel Fixative or clear schelac, but for some reason did not with the Mylar - as you are all saying, this would be a major reason for the delamination. I am still using D2T, as I have a few tubes to get rid of, and then will probably go to a version of moisture cure Poly or Etex. Thanks again . pete

Jamie - Just the D2T is coming off, the foil is as good as new, just needs a 'Primer' for the D2T to stick to.pete

Pete - nice work with the foil, and I had a look at Photobucket, you obviously have put in an amazing number of hours on them, for some great colour combos. I recently fished a few of my foiled (mylar) lures, and found the finish coat was chipping off in slabs - we need to come up with a primer to bind to the foil and for the topcoat to stick to, any ideas here? These lures were coated with D2T, which may be the problem . pete

"I think she has been swiping pairs of the spinners I make and selling them on the internet behind my back... I can't prove it, but they seem to disappear when I'm not looking.:?" Bruce -Someone around here keeps stealing/hiding my tools, lures and glues, and I live alone. Get used to those spinners etc disappearing, it's a sign of old age. Still have 2 boats though, can't seem to lose one of them.pete

21xdc - Gee I like that stencil and those natural colours you have used. Great first up lures. pete

21XDC- like it, what a great idea, and like you say shorten them and increase the grip- good thinking .pete

Hi George - Not sure what medium you are spraying, but is certainly good value for money. It is on the high side as far as tip size goes - ".38mm Fluid Tip", but this is maybe just what you need, most guys seem to use a .3 tip, or .2 if you are spraying smaller lures, as I do. All I can see missing is an air valve (MAC Valve) which is usually down under the neck leading to the tip, which is sometimes handy to regulate air flow, without having to go to the regulator all the time. Keep us all posted, as there would probably be a heap of interest in this size tip/nozzle, I note it also has a good parts back up, which is pretty important to anyone in business, and you may need to replace a bent needle/ split tip, from time to time. pete

Dt & BJ- I think I will just hang in 'The Shed,' where in my mind, life is so mono and simple. Sorry I ever posted that. pete

Point taken D.T.pete

Point taken D.T. pete

I recieved an email yesterday from 12spot (Dave) asking what I thought was, "how do you find the centre of a blank" - when what he was really asking was,"how do you centre the eyes on a lure". I went out into the 'Shed' and took a few pics and came back ready to email them to Dave, and just read the question again?????? So his loss (I posted my answer on eyes) is our gain. Here is a few tools to get the centre of a blank, best if square and paralell, but the little 'spider' tool will also do EVEN tapers. Vernier Calipers (everyone should have these), they will measure width/ depth to 1/10 of a millimetre- mine cost about $40, but you can buy them for half that, or a set of plastic ones for $8. [/img] Dress Makers Gague- I bought this at an Amish quilt makers shop in Missouri when I was there in May (cost $3.50)- this will measure depth (lip slot) and length/width , and has a sliding stop, very handy little tool. Just be careful and check the measurements marked on the tool, you may have to file some off the end to make it accurate. [/img] Or this 'Spider', which I made way back, because every stick of wood I cut was a different width. I cut 2 X 'U' sections from aluminium 'U Channel' - file them so the legs are exactly the same width, drill a small rivet hole dead centre, (this is where you really need Vernier Callipers) and rivet the legs together - salvage the broken anvil pin from rivet and sharpen on a grinder to a needle point and drive it back through the rivet as in pictures (this will be the 'scriber'). Straddle it over ANY width piece of wood (as long as it has parallel sides, or which has an even taper, drag it along the stick and you get a scribed centre line. If you are doing multiple lures, it's best to do it along the full length of the stick before cutting off to your desired length lure blanks. [/img] [/img] [/img] I put more time into these jigs etc, than I put into lures - Don't know which I enjoy more!!! Hope you can use something here. pete

Paul - see this thread, it explains heaps about 'Windex' . pete http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/12438-thinning-water-based-acrylics.html

Found this on P /Bucket, interesting possibilities. pete Video of How to test swim in current - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

I just had another look (of about 10) and there appears to be a 'flap sander' buzzing away in the background too?????pete

Dieter / Mark, that wood, if it's 'blond', is probably 'Ramin', it's from Indonesia. see "Gonystylus sp " on this site http://www.worldagroforestry.org/Sea/Products/AFDbases/wd/ which was posted by 'Rofish'. pete

bassn - here's two, looks pretty simple to me - http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/rod-reel-building-repair/12190-no-bass-pro-rod-safe-2.html#post86485 OR http://www.rod-crafting.com/articles/marbling-help.html Pete

Bassn - The marbled one's look similar to plugs, a guy who calls himself 'Black Talon' makes, but his are better - don't hold your breath for information on how to do it though, he seems to love the adulation he gets, but is pretty backward when it comes to giving out 'Recipes' on 'how too's' etc. If you go to some rod building sites (including here) you will find out how, as they do it to rod butts, it's called 'Marbleing'. As for the others, looks like lace (fine -ladies undies!!! etc), wrapped around the lure and then sprayed whatever colour you want - buying the lace is half the fun. Hope this is of some help. pete

"I started building baits about 30 years ago as a kid, just me and my pocket knife and some Testers model airplane paint. Now, while I still feel like a kid, it's me and a boat load of tools, paint booth, drying wheels, compressor, airbrushes and the list goes on. I think I caught more fish on those crudely made baits than what I craft now. I haven't been building lures all that time, I'm really just getting back into it." Bob, I know exactly how you feel, hang in there mate. pete

bbduc- This is one way, http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/11994-thru-wire-technique.html#post82664 SEE POST#9 You need a long SHARP bit, and minimal cross grain, as the drill may still try to follow it . pete

Dave - I am thinking that wood may be called 'Ramin'- is it 'blond', can be soft or hard, and is used for picture frame moulds and furniture framing here, and is an, Indonesian timber. Pete