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About two months back ‘Lincoya’ (Gene) suggested there be a “Glossary of terms page”, to aid new members, old members, and foreigners like myself, who sometimes struggle with the jargon/slang (from the land of jargon/slang and rhyming slang). I am half English, and I don’t know how, LaPala, Swede, Diemai,Rofish etc etc, can decipher some of this - reading between the lines rules!! I just read two posts tonight, and here are a few, all new to me - ”scouser”., “8 stone fish boxes”, “Fleetwood”. Then there is LOL, IMO, and I can’t remember the others. What I am going to suggest is we COPY & PASTE the previous post of the existing list (correct if necessary) and add any new words/jargon etc, that you know the meaning of, onto your post. This would be a continuous, evolving file of all the different terms we use.Pete Bait - Something alive or dead which is added to a hook/hooks to attract/catch fish. Bait - An artificial decoy, made of plastic, wood, or metal, painted various colors, which is cast, trolled, or jigged, to lure fish. Lure - See “Bait”. Lip - A flat (or curved) piece of metal, plastic or wood which is fixed into a lure (usually at front) at various angles, to influence diving depth and side to side motion of a bait/lure. Dependant on "Reynolds Number" Reynolds Number -I will leave this to Dave Bib - See “Lip”. Lexan - 3M brand name for "polycarbonate". Polycarbonate - any of various tough transparent thermoplastics characterized by high impact strength and high softening temperature (I pinched this one) -commonly known as “Lexan” Jerk Bait - ????????? Diver- ???????? Glider- ???? Swim Bait- ?????????? Who knows?? Blade Bait

Could we have team events for swim-baits as well, we could call it 'Synchronised Swimming'.pete

snax- I'm not quite sure what to suggest, but have you tried D2T, make a jig to hold the lure, then just fill the holes and rotate it until it's set!!! As for the lure pictured, superb bit of work there, love your colours. pete

Phil- I am not sure, maybe just to make it look good, but suspect it is to stop paint build up, by relieving the slight vacuum in the back of the cap, and just outside the nozzle (venturi effect), this would be caused by the speed/expansion of the air coming out of the nozzle - the slots would allow air to get in behind the spray plume and equalise the pressure, which would stop paint being sucked out of the plume and sticking around the sides of the cap....... clear as mud ???? You just wanted to show off your Macro photography skills, good pic. You can use them without the cap, to get close for fine lines etc, but as I am sure you know, WATCH THE NEEDLE. Also see the burrs on the slot edges, I filed these down (and the chrome) with a fine jewelers file, seemed to also cut down the paint build up. Also - see post #22 for 'hot up tips' - http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/13563-buying-new-airbrush-opinions-wanted-3.html Sorry for rambling, I have had a couple of wines tonight.pete

Thanks DT, very informative. pete

D.T- I think you would be on a winner here, and I can only go along with all these posts. There is an amazing amount of interest/frustration, you may have noticed the first 4 threads on 'Hard Baits' are related to topcoats, so it appears to be on everyone's mind. I think there is probably a line though, between durability and presentation, and I would err to the usability/ toughness side, although I can appreciate the requirements of builder/sellers wanting a bit of both, with good looks thrown in. A good glossy, clear finish is relatively easy, compared to the real world of rocks, gravel and teeth. Maybe we should all be weaned off, nice sparkling gloss coats, and onto matte, that would solve half the problems, but then matte is never as hard as gloss is it !! I'm confused. pete

LaPala- media endorsements, one of my pet hates, I miss all those adds on U.S television, laugh, it's an industry there - unfortunately it's happening here too, I think, SOMETIMES it's a sign of our insecurity.pete

Nath- this is all god stuff, but that LED light @$75 is a bit much. good to know what is available though. Thanks 'Hughesy' and 'DT', great info here. pete

DT - I was hoping this stuff would have a place in finish coating lures and rods, I could dip them and take them down to the local solarium, sub let some space in one of those pods with a paying customer (preferably female), checking them at 30 second intervals of course. ****. Oh well back to the D2T, etc. pete

Dan, I have a quite few old lures in the shed, which were made and used about 25 years ago (and sooner) on which I used floor lacquer as a finish. I recently had a look at them and they are still brand new, but as Bob says they have yellowed a bit- this is not that noticable on darker colours, and if using them yourself, who cares. The good thing about this stuff (compared to brittle D2T) ,is it is very tough, or what I would call 'stroft', strong but soft. And cheap.!!! pete

Smitty, you have given me an idea, as your cunning 'flounder' has a similar action to these 'Tassie Devils' -- I will try cutting them in three and see what the resulting action is, maybe also dynamite. thanks pete

Here's a bit of info, just to cloud the words HARDNESS / TOUGHNESS, a bit more. The last paragraph, is a bit deflating. pete SHORE HARDNESS The shore scleroscope measures hardness in terms of the elasticity of the material. A diamond-tipped hammer in a graduated glass tube is allowed to fall from a known height on the specimen to be tested, and the hardness number depends on the height to which the hammer rebounds; the harder the material, the higher the rebound [14]. Shore hardness [15] is a measure of the resistance of material to indentation by 3 spring-loaded indenter. The higher the number, the greater the resistance. The hardness testing of plastics is most commonly measured by the Shore (Durometer) test or Rockwell hardness test. Both methods measure the resistance of the plastic toward indentation. Both scales provide an empirical hardness value that doesn't correlate to other properties or fundamental characteristics. Shore Hardness, using either the Shore A or Shore D scale, is the preferred method for rubbers/elastomers and is also commonly used for 'softer' plastics such as polyolefins, fluoropolymers, and vinyls. The Shore A scale is used for 'softer' rubbers while the Shore D scale is used for 'harder' ones. The shore A Hardness is the relative hardness of elastic materials such as rubber or soft plastics can be determined with an instrument called a Shore A durometer. If the indenter completely penetrates the sample, a reading of 0 is obtained, and if no penetration occurs, a reading of 100 results. The reading is dimensionless. The Shore hardness is measured with an apparatus known as a Durometer and consequently is also known as 'Durometer hardness'. The hardness value is determined by the penetration of the Durometer indenter foot into the sample. Because of the resilience of rubbers and plastics, the hardness reading my change over time - so the indentation time is sometimes reported along with the hardness number. The ASTM test number is ASTM D2240 while the analogous ISO test method is ISO 868. The results obtained from this test are a useful measure of relative resistance to indentation of various grades of polymers. However, the Shore Durometer hardness test does not serve well as a predictor of other properties such as strength or resistance to scratches, abrasion, or wear, and should not be used alone for product design specifications.

Sorry Bruce, posted in wrong THREAD, should be in 'clear coat question for the engineers out there...' Heres some 'Quotes', sounds ideal! ! ! FISHING LURES EPOXY COATINGS CO. formulated a clear, high gloss dip or spray coating for fishing lures that increases their beauty and life. Dipping is normally used because it is quick and easy and eliminates waste from over spray. After dipping and a few seconds delay to drain the coating is cured in a few seconds to greatly increase production rate. This formulation is designed for 100% adhesion to all surfaces including metal foil. It has outstanding resistance to repeated abuse from striking the surface of the water. We have UV curing equipment at low cost. 1. INCREASED PRODUCTION The coated rods can go into the UV curing oven immediately after coating. The UV Coatings are cured in 5 seconds or less. 2. SINGLE COMPONENT UV Coatings are single component materials. No mixing of two or more components is required. 3. STANDARD APPLICATION UV Blank Coatings are applied by squeegee in the same manner as other types of coatings. No change in application procedures is required. 4. ONE COAT APPLICATION Only one coat of UV Blank Coatings is required to give a high build, rich looking finish because there is no evaporation. WHAT GOES ON, STAYS ON. 5. HIGH GLOSS UV Blank Coatings give a high gloss and durable finish. 6. ZERO EMISSION-NON-POLLUTING UV Blank Coatings contain no organic solvents so the volatile emission is zero. 7. INDEFINITE SHELF LIFE The shelf life of UV Blank Coatings is indefinite when the containers are kept closed and not exposed to fluorescent or UV light from windows or other sources.

Hughesy - is this stuff something anyone could use or do you need NASA engineered lamps - OR will a good dose of sunlight do??? Maybe if you have the time, could you give us a brief run-down, pros and cons etc???? what do you use now, D2T, ETex or UV Cured??? This appears from time to time, but rarely any first hand info, and I would be interested in a trial, there's plenty of light here, even in winter. Pete

Rod - hard to know as I have never used either, but I would suggest the coating is not completely waterproof, OR a small hole where the hangers and lure meet, allowing water to enter, OR you may have trapped some moisture under the coating, say if you top coated it when there was high humidity or your paint was not properly dry. Maybe when it is immersed in water, the small amount of moisture under the coating condenses and clouds up the colours underneath (between the topcoat and paint), appearing to cloud the topcoat. Whatever it is, it's water - spraying/dipping in lacquers when the humidity is high will cause this, it's called 'Bloom', and usually can be cured (in lacquers) with another good coat (on a low humidity day), this will activate the coat underneath and allow the moisture to 'gass off', so maybe google it for more info or search for 'bloom' on the manufacturers site. I think 'KCdeno' (Dan) is a bit of a guru on this and lacquers, so maybe send him a PM. pete

Delw - that's not a sock, its a pile of cotton cleaning rags, plain white to match the paper. Don't worry I know, where, and what everything is. pete

Crikey, he is still causing controversy - good fishing up that way.pete Irwin mining court case result due - Yahoo!7 News

AAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH Diemai, that's beautifull, very reminicent of "FatFingers' basement. Dave, do you want to sell that tube on the floor (R/H wall)? pete

Hi phil, I was beginning to doubt my guess, but it looked much like the rainbows here, although they live a lot longer, maybe 4-5 yrs. They are throughout the East coast river/dam systems here, especially alpine, but are kept in check by the summer water temperatures, in the shallow rivers/streams, which probably get to about 23-25C and higher. pete

With all the fascination with mega 18" articulated/jointed lures, I thought I would post this one, 7 segments and 6 joints. I have not got a clue how to make it, or what they use for hinges - top coat looks like dust. pete

Good on you Bob, you covered it all, took the words right out of my mouth. 'droptine', use the search function for anything you don't know, there are years worth of experience in there, and as bob is saying, keep it simple/basic and work up from there.pete

Manu- Very impressive work, banana lures would have to one of the hardest, and most time consuming to make, but as you say they get results - I personally have given up on making them years ago, and just buy 'Flatfish', Brown Trout here love them. pete

Thanks Mark - I have moved the live well (live bait tank) to the back of the boat and halved the size - I only use 2-4" live baits (mullet), so it should be big enough. The formica strip is a great idea, and I will have to get some, know what you mean about fragile in a square tank too. I have put these baits in coloured buckets before with interesting results, white is good, with yellow, they turn a light yellow, green and blue kills them, pretty quick too. pete

Yeah , I will say a not too bad rainbow, but, that dorsal looks a bit tired???.pete