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I use a lot of small lip's and this limits the distance from my hand to the band saw blade, so a few years back I fleaBayed a 'Ticket Punch' which punches a nice slot any length up to about 3/4"' long, nail clippers are also good--- I use 1mm Polycarbonate though (.040 ") Pete

Thanks Dave--I tried to paste that link but it's beyond me, doesn't seem to work like it used to around here - I had the feeling I may have already posted it , but on searching my history I could only go back to October 15th - 2015 ---Pete

Gee -- I reckon I have made or used all of these dust extractors, including the "Thein'' which was pretty good (and simple)----BUT I have used this one for the past 2 years with excellent results, and you can just chuck the wet dust on the garden or compost heap - If you have a fan, very easy to make --- Pete

I reckon I'm with you Dave, well put. Pete

Me too to all the above. Pete

Submerging blanks in a jar of your favourite (thinned) lacquer with a slight vacuum works, BUT it takes a week (warm week) for the blanks to 'gas off ' - I had a bit of a fad on this about 5 years ago. Just make sure you use a diaphragm pump, not anything where the fumes will flow through an armature -------------- Pete

Welcome back Nate,, stay back mate. You must be a nervous wreck after all this. Pete

Hav eyou tries dipping it. Pete

Yes Mark thanks, I should have remembered that, nice lady, nice family-- Debbie is also my brothers parrtner's name!!!!!!!-------! How is Nate going anyway. Pete

Geez Mark, looks like they misdiagnosed it again, hope they get it right this time - Makes me wonder about that health system over there, maybe he should fly out here, or anywhere where he can get some satisfaction AND comfort---My thought's are with him and family, must be rally hard on his wife (forgot name) and children too. I'm not prayin, BUT I AM with him. Pete

I have been running one of these "Master Airbrush" models for about 5 years, thought it would last 1 (same compressor, different brand name) --no problems with noise, only thing that was I didn't DRAIN it regularly, I didn't do this because it's so dry here, never thought it would be a problem but that was my fault --. Pete

Beautiful thing John, --should also be in the Tute section along with your foil idea. thanks for sharing. Pete

WOW !! just read this Nate, been in Tasmania for 3 weeks and missed it--Good to hear you are finally coming good, although it would be good for you to know what happened or is happening?? Anyway sounds like you are on the mend and I'm sure all will be well and you will soon be back in the shed--- MY theory is, you probably got an infection from those 'Rats' you make . Hang in there mate,and all the best to your family----Pete

Dave J-- here is a picture of some Corrorobree Frogs I dug out of the files, it shows 8cm and 6cm lures with concave or convex lips ( Just turn the lip over), as I said previously the concave lip goes to 15', and when turned over '' convex'' up they will dive to about half that depth (8'), using a normal flat bib of the same length you get somewhere in the middle, maybe 10'. The curve is 2mm on a 20mm wide lip, a bit less than that on the smaller lures which have a smaller lip. Mark--yes, concave up is hard and wide, convex up is tight with a medium action. Sorry I have to run, going to Tasmania tomorrow, fishing for sea run Brown Trout--nowhere near ready. Pete

Jason-- One variable I have used for quite a few years is putting a curve in the lip (concave)--On a 8Cm lure (3 1/4") with a lip overhang of 17mm ( apx 3/4'') they will dive to 15' as opposed to the same standard flat lip of the same size and overhang, this will dive to about 8'-10' at best--this is with the tow point on the nose of the lure -Dave would be able to enlighten you on why this is so, I'm not up on "Vortex Shedding" although it really fascinates me. Dave- Great post's as usual, it's always an education when you get involved . Pete

Thanks fellas, must be the foil I'm using as I too am using Devcon etc. Pete

Good news, bad news Dieter, I went through all this 2 years back and sympathise with you, it's just what we have to do mate-- try and find some ''ME'' time, you really have to look after yourself / wife too, I know how this can wear you down. Hang in there ----- Pete

Very nice lures 'Gliders', can you tell us what you use as a ''primer'' on top of the foil and under your top coat --I have tried this and with a small knock the top coat is chipping off (not sticking to foil). Pete

Hey Dieter hope all is well, was watching one of your vids on U.T just last night, inspirational - you do what most of us just think about-- we and your bath tub need you. Pete

Can't beat them Whackett, makes cleaning or changing guns soooooooooooo easy. Pete

Dip the shank end of a drill bit in some paint (W/ B Acrylic my choice), this way you can easily change the desired eye size. Pete

To add to Dave's description - I have some propionate pellets here, only used it a few times and seems to be a good sealer, as a top coat it's a bit brittle-- A bit (a lot really) of research many years back told me it is/ was used in lot's of plastic apps, including those clear yellow chisel handles we use (very tough), sunglass and eye glass frames, for it's toughness and the weird property of always feeling like it is at body temperature when you put a pair of glasses on, (never noticed this until I read it)-----also used for spectacle lenses , so here's what seems to be the ideal plastic for our purposes. But the best bit------- Beg, steal, or bludge all the old sets of those cheap reading glasses from your friends (make sure they are not GLASS), pop the lenses out of the frames and place them on a piece of heavy cloth and cover with some more cloth, find a jar with lid, THEN bash the crap out of them (lenses) until you have reasonably sized pieces and tip them in the jar, then add some GOOD QUALITY lacquer thinner (about 4 :1 mix of - thinners : lenses), shake it up and leave it for a few hours and shake it again and again for about 48 hrs, if it looks a bit thick add some more thinners and you will have a jar of' "Prop"- thin it to your requirement and don't let it thicken too much, over time (weeks / months) it will turn into a clear solid lump, so keep an eye on it. Also- DON'T just dump the lenses in the thinners without crushing them, they will stick together and it will take a week or two to dissolve. Over time it seems to yellow a bit, just like all the other 'upmarket' clear coats we use. Pete

Nice insight Dave, the simple life , I saw it in Fiji a few years back, not a care in the world over there either. I done a conversion of what the minimum wage is here- US $12.01 (A$17.29), no wonder no one wants to make anything here !!! Pete

I remember buying and using ''clear shellac'' about 7-8 years ago- at the time it seemed to be the SIMPLE do all coating, unfortunately was not. As has been said above, it yellows, is hard (brittle), it marks easily and after a few months it will start cracking/ crazing all over--does not like the wood expanding OR sunlight. Pete

Still got mine- about 1978 vintage. Pete