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Cookin, sounds like a Coley/Lincoya duo. pete

BJ, if it does not work, maybe too slow, you could always put it on your ceiling light in the MAIN bedroom .pete

Sorry about that, did not see the part about 'sellers I.D' .. Pete

Always wondered why it (eBay) never came up on a post, I will have to read the rules -That sounds like a good reason too!!! For what it's worth I have purchased 2 from Hong Kong, and that seller is not 'UP' any more, BUT if you got to 'eBay international', do an advanced search and look for the seller DELETED, they have .2 and .3 mm brushes for $20 + $17 postage to U.S, with free hose, Wah !Hoo! - Another tip, look for the ones with the air adjuster knob under the barrel. They seem O.K (mine is .2mm), but I do not use these much with thinner based paints etc. There is a post somewhere here, on how to 'soup' them up also. pete

I have wired a few of these, and know little about 240AC (or 110AC there - white man magic) - just follow your normal wiring colours for active/ neutral and earth, and attach a wall plug. They are a quite durable and tourkey motor despite their low wattage (2.8W). I have used a 2.4 and 5 RPM motor, the 5 does a good job, and 6 RPM would be o.K, but would make it hard to chase when placing the lures on the wheel - the larger the wheel diameter, the easier to attach lures while spinning, although it would have a greater "tip speed". pete

Stick it in some hot oil @ 165C, and if it bends and is still clear, it's Polycarbonate. pete

clemmy - K.C's idea sounds good to me, as long as all your lures are pretty close to exactly the same.I have searched and searched and can't find any of your lures to eyeball. Here's a couple of more ideas (simple). If your lures have no symmetrical flats on them, right angles (aluminium angle) hold curves well, just lay the lure on it's back in the angle, and place 2 posts on the end (of Al angle), slide the lure between them and this will centre the blank. Much more simple - If your lures have some flats on the side (tapered or parallel), just fix 2 pieces of Al angle (one end only, parallel to each other) to a board @ the width of the narrowest part, slide the lure between them (on it's back) and the "wedge effect" should hold it very tight, then you would need to pack under it (maybe silicone with a bit of Gladrap) to stop it rocking vertically. Looks very clear in my head, but is probably very confusing for you without pictures, if you need some pics , let me know. *****pete

Some food for thought - and VodkaMan. Found this on 'FleaBay'. pete http://www.zipp.com/portals/0/technology/documents/Racecar%20Engineering.pdf AND boundary layers explained. http://www.zipp.com/Technology/Aerodynamics/BoundaryLayer/tabid/80/Default.aspx

Bruce - I just googled 'VHS disease', thought it must have been the thing that makes my old tape player run slow ! ! No laughing matter, I can only imagine the fish losses in all those lakes there, and the $$$ losses attached to them- it's probably only a matter of time until we get it here. Sometimes I wonder weather these diseases (foot and mouth, mad cows etc) are not intentionally spread, to gain a market advantage by another country. I know a few people who work for customs here, and the stories they tell of people smuggling in salami's, fruit, pets, pickled eels, you name it. There is big business in smuggling OUT snakes, lizards,crocodiles and all sorts of parrots, to collectors all over the planet, god knows what they are taking out with them. Every few weeks you read about some get rich idiot trying to get something out, here's one guy who tried to smuggle eggs of "sulphur-crested cockatoos, nine were pink Major Mitchell cockatoos, and seven were galahs" - in the past week I would have seen 1000's of these birds flying around here, probably worth $1000 each over there, diseases and all. pete http://www.news.com.au/story/0,10117,18885539-2,00.html

T.H- yes it has a ' plumbed' live well, BUT that's going too, it's too big for my requirements (about 12 gallons), I would only be using it for bait not catch, so something about half this size would do for what I use for bait - besides I could use the extra storage space. What size wells do you guys use there??pete

For me, Maryville say's it all.pete

Gene, Hi- what a coincidence, I found a book yesterday, I think/hope you might like, will post it in the next week, so it should arrive for you to while away the winter, while I am enjoying the sun for a change - only 1 more month to spring??but it snowed on the mountains again yesterday. pete

As opposed to your style of wide, long and low bass boats, a 14'-15' boat is quite popular here, with lots of freeboard for the chop on the bays, and wide decks for stability. In the past few years, “big” U.S style ‘bass boats’ (Stratos,Bass Trackers,Triton’s etc) are becoming more popular, and time will tell weather they are really functional in the short coast chop, and BIG swell on the coast- a Stratos could cost as much as $60,000 or more, so that’s another reason to buy Aluminum and local. These days small glass fishing boats are unheard of, we bash them around a bit, on the rocks and oyster beds, and Aluminum stands up pretty well. Something I noticed when over there, is a lot of the Aluminum boats are still rivetted (works of art), which is a thing of the past here, everything is welded, probably not as strong, but easy to build, and easy to repair - some makers, still have problems with stress fractures in welds etc, which probably would not be a problem with rivets. [/img] This is an Aluminum boat I bought recently, 14.5' x 80" beam. My old one was the same make and length, but was getting a bit cramped @ 65"beam, so I went for a wider boat, and hopefully, it’s still something I could handle by myself if necessary. [/img] It came with tiller steering, heaps of pockets and ample deck space, but I like the idea of being able to let go the steering, so out goes the tiller. If I get rid of the tiller, I had to have a console, I personally don’t like them either, as in a 14' boat, space is at a premium, so, similar to my last boat, I’m making a hybrid steering system. When not in use the steering can be folded up (forward and vertical), out of the way, and give me all that side of the boat to fish, and I can easily spin around 360 deg in the seat, without bashing my bony knees on anything. Also when folded up, it allows the boat to be steered from a standing position, which is a real advantage when sight fishing the salt water flats/creeks on the coast, which can be very shallow (2') - I recently spent 5 hours, waiting for the tide to come in, stuck on a mud flat in the middle of a creek, no fun in the hot sun, with no bait and nowhere to go. [/img] Old Boat with old version of steering and seats I have been in denial for years, but now have installed a Minn Kota (my first electric), and am trying to get hold of a remote for it (about $350 here), which is another reason I won’t need a steering wheel/console in my face. I will also replace the seat pedestals, with gas lift office chair stems, they get a bit rusty, but are sssooooooooooooo comfortable when bashing through waves, and they have height and tilt adjustment, at the end of the day, my backside will thank me for these - I get plenty of laughs, but only from those who have not sat in them, best thing is they cost $5-$6 at the recyclers - chuck away the “office seat” and attach your boat seats, they usually screw straight on, when the pedestals get a bit dodgy, go to the recycler, and get another one, they take about 10 minutes to change. I have removed all the stickers (took a day), floor and have most of the cables and hardware ready to go, so will keep you posted. pete

hi Bruce, I think you are 'gilding the lilly' a bit there, the older I get, the stupider I get- the boat is pretty slow at the moment, I tore it apart, and have been working ever since, but should be able to give it a few days this weekend. I will post some pics in the boating section. Pete

Pour some one inch pools of D2T, Etex, Dick Nites onto some 2" Duct tape, and let it set for a month or two (or more) - then start bending/scuffing the resulting flat discs of coatings, you will quickly find which is the hardest/most brittle, and which is the toughest. Some break like glass.pete

Good one Josh, I'm hunting for it. pete

Cal - you certainly started with a hard one, jointed is sooooooooo fiddly, great work. pete

Thomas -I have only ever made one jointed lure, because of the size (3") I used S/S leader wire (coated @ about 15lb) which was the lightest I had at the time. I just drilled the holes and attached some crimps/ferules to the wire ends, then dropped them in the holes with some D2T, back first, let it set, then invert and do the same to the 2 front wires. It is pretty easy and the lure works O.K, but may be better if the wire was finer. Only time will tell if the wire will fray from constant bending, all O.K so far. pete

how about 'latex sheet' ? ? ? pete

Certainly looks good, I have been working on something similar for the past 2 years (on and off) for lures - Had 7 hits on it last week (only caught 2 trout), it either moves the lure too much OR I think they were smallies. pete

diemai - just remember the smaller the wheel the quicker it will wear out. Rule of thumb is, the smallest CONCAVE curve your lure has, is the smallest the wheel has to be, CONVEX curves are not a problem, in fact the bigger the wheel the better for convex curves

Dieter - it is the type that is used to glue shoe soles, rubber, Kitchen laminate to bench tops etc - don't use spray cans, it is nowhere as good (too thin). Various names here 'Kwik Grip', 'Contact Cement', 'Contact Adhesive'. etc etc. pete

Daemai- For attachment, I use contact glue - make sure you coat both surfaces and let dry before sticking. To get it off, just dab some Mineral Turpentine (turps) on to the surface of the garnet paper, it will soak through and then it's just a matter of peeling it off. pete