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Mark - To be honest, I don't know, BUT suspect it has something to do with paint pooling in the tip, other brushes I have appear to get a slight vacuum just inside the tip and blobs of paint can settle and dry here, so maybe these 'flutes'!! relieve that vacuum. Saying this, these still get some paint in there, but not as much as some. I think I tried an Iwata tip on it (same threads) or you can spray without it if you want- this is supposed to give even finer lines etc- BUT it also exposes the needle tip to being easily damaged. The thing that suprised me is, you can buy parts for them, which is a plus. I keep calling it the 'Tip', but really it probably should be called a cowl, cap or hood- sorry if I have confused anyone. pete

This is what I use, I suppose it is an Iwata copy; it

KC- I was just driving home and for some reason I recalled 'That cap and ball pistol', you had, and how much rust was on it- Have you ever used the molasses trick to remove rust/dirt off steel tools etc. I have done a fair bit with old woodworking tools, planes, spokeshaves etc and they come up pretty good? Just wondering!! pete

AND, don't forget Monica

I think the thinners would destroy these valves (never tried them though). The vacuum only has to be held for a minute or so, until sufficient air is removed, it's when you let the vacuum off that the sealer/lacquer is forced into the wood by atmospheric presure. Mark-I use it mainly to prime the wood, as I have had some problems in the past with the whole paint /sealer system lifting. The wood I use is quite dense and seems anything has trouble penetrating it. I could use all these commercial primers etc, but it's just another system I have to deal with, so I just use Prop, lacquer or Acetone base, to keep it simple

You think you guys have problems!!. Here, we like to think we speak a brand of English, and we still can't understand some of the meanings of words here, and elsewhere on media etc. pete

Kc, I will hold you to that, and look forward to it - I'm saving up as I type. pete

Nice work Dave, obviously you have put a lot of nights in at 'The Test Tank' - BUT, what's that dripping noise in the background??? Have a beer for me. pete

This is not for everyone, but if you want to make your lures look a bit special, and get a different action try it. The lip blank does not have to be round; it could be a coffin lip, square lip, any lip. They can be reversed (concave to convex), which will change the action and depth. Whatever size former you want to use, it will also mould anything under this size to the same curve. The flat rear tab of the poly lip, can be bent (in a hair straighter) to vary the lip_former.pdf lip_former.pdf lip_former.pdf lip_former.pdf lip_former.pdf lip_former.pdf lip_former.pdf lip_former.pdf lip_former.pdf

Daymon I reckon I drove within 100 miles of there, beautiful country right through there. pete

Daymon- Yeah --I like the square one, I think I will order some------------ and form a curve in them, and SEEEEEEEE how they run. Wish you could have made it to Clinton Dave, I like "13.7" , incidentally the pool was about 15' long, so may have been a test for lips, rather than lure characteristics , and in the 2 weeks I was there I saw one person (male) in it. pete

Dave I have just been using food preserving jars with the rubber seal. I drill a hole in the lid, push valve stem out of a bike tube through it (remove valve), make a rubber washer and run a nut and washer down so it seals OK, then just hook up some heavy rubber hose and suck away, then clamp the hose when it's vacced enough and leave it. I used to us e a mattress inflater, with the hose on the suck side but it packed it in - then I went to WALL MART and spied the Reynolds kit. I know what you mean about drying, which can be a real trap if you don't let it gas off for at least a few days, I have had some blistering in the past, so try and leave them for as long as possible- sniffing them, is my best suggestion. pete