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Sorry Ken, thought you were looking for a resin tho glue in hinges etc. Pete

Ken---- I think I might be stating the obvious, but how about ''Devcon 2 Ton'', it's pretty strong, there is a heap of tests etc on here. Pete

Scrubs, thanks mate, just downloaded ''Äpache Open Office'' and Dave's Calculator' works a treat'. Pete

GeeeZZZ guys, go onto the ''bay'' and type in 'Digital Scales' .. They range from $8 to about $20 and you can read either Imperial or Metric--- The also come in a range of increments of 100 gm's, -------------------so you can buy a scale that will cover the range of your lure weight. One of the sets I have will weigh a hair and cost $16. Pete

Thanks Dave, looks like NO version, just done a search and can't find it===guess this is the problem Pete

Thanks Dave great idea, I seem to remember you P.M'd me something like this years ago - I just downloaded your calculator but I (my P.C) doesn't seem to be able to open it--have I missed something????? Pete

I think you should consider using the same timber as the original, buoyancy has a lot to do with not only flotation but also action. Pete.

Ichtus--Here's some I made in 2012, I had some feathers I bought in England when I visited 'PhilB' in Leeds and when I got home I decided to try it out---- Pretty tedious though --- I soaked them in 'Polyurethane ' floor coating for a few minutes, then slid them on the side of the lure, when completely dry I then coated them with !!!!!??--- probably Devcon 2T. I found if I cut the stiffer / thicker part of the 'spine' of the feather off they covered better, otherwise you will get air bubbles under the feather which then 'blisters' the top coating. The top lure has 'Mallard Duck' feathers on a 50mm ( 2" ) lure. The bottom two pics (same lure) are covered with 'Mallard Drake ' feathers on a 80mm (3 1/4" ) lure.. The effect certainly makes it worth exploring. Pete P.S---just looking at the date written on the bottom of the lure in picture, they were made in 2011--------

I'm up to version 'Mk3C' and about to upgrade to 'Mk3D', so many blanks lying around in boxes, I don't have the time to sand and paint them . Pete

Thanks Steve, I found one yesterday in the back shed --It's amazing what lurks in those dark corners. also thanks for the walnut tip, I was wondering where you buy that stuff, read somewhere they sell it in pet shops??? I have that many things going at the moment I dare not start on this, 3 or 4 other various projects all half finished :?bloody story of my life. Pete

Also----------If you go to the site I posted yesterday, they recommend 'hardwood pegs' and "Aluminium oxide grit". Pete

Thanks Clemmy--I think they smooth /polish, marble with marble, granite with granite, so I suspect wood to wood, would be good (I'm a poet now). I use all sorts of wood these days, Huon is very rare, and expensive (about $4000 a Cu Meter ) - have been using milled Poplar a bit lately (from U.S) and probably cheaper than you can get it there???, has good weight, it's hard and is supposed to have some water resistance - haven't used Balsa since the early 80's. Yes the sponge idea is a goodie, maybe even cut in smaller pads on wood would help too. Thanks again, as usual some really great input and much appreciated. Pete

Hummmmm, got me thinking Vince, carpet stuck to a grinding wheel (or wooden wheel) might be a good 'fast' solution, must be the heat generated !!!. Also 'Flame Polishing' is used a lot on visors etc??? Pete

Thanks everyone, some great input---as Dave and others are saying we don't need a perfect finish, just need to knock down any sharp edged grooves etc. Bobs idea with the brush may be a good solution, and as Dave says, would need its own stylus--I also like the idea of the sponge sanders, very simple. From what I have read about commercial sanders (a lot), drum size and percentage of drum filled is as important as the sanding medium / speed. Anyway at this moment I am looking for a suitable drum (not too big) , thinking of maybe a pickle drum with screw on lid-- OR, a guy down the road sells brewing kits, maybe he has something in the drum range (I'm thinking about 20-25 litre) If you interested in this have a look at -- Kramer industries online.com--- there is some great info here in the 'finishing guides' section. Thank you again everyone for your very generous input. Pete

Been looking at these for a while but most are too small and made for polishing stones etc--Also what is used for the 'cutting compound', I hear Pumice is good but I have no idea what else it's used for (except grinding girls heels) so can't locate a place where I could buy it??? Pete

A curling iron would be o.k for curves--maybe !! A correct EVEN temperature is critical with 'polycarbonate'--- Try heating cooking oil (rice oil is best) in the 'crockpot' and dipping the poly into it---AGAIN, constant temperature is critical (about 175 -180C). Pete

Yep. Pete

Me too Dave, I always admire the Finns machines, air everywhere and not a chain to be seen, and quick. Pete

Hi Gino-- yes they both have a 10mm arbor--You should be able to get the 76mm (3") @ Lowes as that's where I bought mine, except they have a different name here (Masters) the blade brand is called "Worx" handy cut--The larger 80mm x 36T (3 3/8") can be bought at "Proxxon" where they have a few different tungsten and fine spring steel blades, these are pretty good quality tools- There is an outlet in the U.S --Google "http://www.Proxxon.com" (German company I think) then search "saw blades", there is quite a few if you scroll through. I don't know what's going on with this site but I can't attach anything like we used to - addresses Or pictures, very odd ! ! ! ! ? ? ? Pete

Gino--I made pretty much exactly what you describe quite a few years back (just added a 18V Ryobi last month) --For many years I had been using a home made spring steel blade but recently I have been using a 85mm x 2.0 x 24T and a 76mm x1.5 x 24T blade (both tungsten T), both blades cost about $20 ea and the saw drives them through hardwood no problem-- If we can get these here, they must be over there somewhere?? Pete

Try a kiss---sorry Jackg, couldn't resist that. Pete

'Widow' , wade through this site, there is a lot of stuff hidden in here: http://www.woodgears.ca/index.html. Pete

Not sure what you are after Ken but here's mine (this is Mk3), it's not a 'duplicator, these are usually called 'copy lathes'--If you have a spare 6 months and a lot of spare gears and motors around it's very doable. As Ben and Dave said, there is a huge thread on here somewhere and most are made to the same basic principles--search 'Copy Lathe'. Still 'tweaking' this one but it's self feeding (8' sticks) so you can walk away for an hour and do something else, OR have a beer- Power is 12V so you can get bits anywhere AND not electrocute yourself- Cutting head is very quiet compared to angle grinder/ router cutting heads- It will fit in the front seat of my van so I could take it anywhere, hook up to my car battery and carve away (I don't though ) - depending on the size of the lures it cuts about 12-15 / hour and creates a lot of saw dust, but the 'dust buster' handles that. ----------Cost??? , probably about A$400 for about 6 bearings and a 240V to 0 - 24V transformer and some switches , a few CNC parts etc- I used a lot of gears shafts and bearings out of old (real old ) 12V cordless drills, some good quality bits and pieces in these. Like I said this shows the basic setup and am still tweaking it, I added some timers / limit switches this week so it is even more 'Auto' and looks a bit different now. Pete Sorry for the blurry Pic, it's running in this one.

Mark- the 'Sebile' you quoted,,, is it a soft plastic or wood / hard plastic (hard bait).?????????? Why I ask is, someone asked if I had copied a 'Sebile' lure when I made the one pictured (this is 'Mk 2')--I had never seen any Sebile 'hard baits' with a retractable hook, so I went and checked their site, all I could find was moulded soft plastics with single hooks, with some sort of special rubber weighting system - BUT when you start looking at patents there is all sort of angles and hook set ups in there. Just wondering as I would like to get a look at it. Pete

Sounds like you have at least a good curnell of an idea Mr Bait, getting it to fly might be a 'life work', but don't let that stop you. I don't know how I could help but if I can I'm in. You also have to realise that there are people from all over the world reading this post and Forum, so try thinking / looking outside the box (U.S), the lure knowledge in Asia, Russia, Finland and the rest of Europe dwarfs what we have here. I'll be watching for sure. Pete