hazmail

I looked at water troughs Kelly, too shallow for my purposes I thought. Thanks Dave, everything is "fluid" at the moment, the 'pump' will have to move something like .16 m/sec to get 3-4Kph- all good on paper but once you add diffusers and curves this could easily go to .2 m/sec, so as you say, "the alley may need to be squashed / expanded"--should be fun working it out though--still sourcing some glass but got the 'speedo' running, the first thing I made about 8 months ago . If it doesn't work it will make a good coffin. Thanks again for your input Kelly. Pete

Here's my little ongoing effort, hope this advances this thread a bit, if we all add a bit we may eventually get it, I think "crowd sourcing" is what this is called . I thought if I was going to make a test tank it would be large enough to actually swim lures or tether them in a current -- As I, and probably others have posted, I feel the only way to get enough water flow is with an outboard, so six months back I bought this 55lb 'cheapo' 10 speed Electric outboard on fleabay for about A$130 . I'm using the 'divided tank' idea posted by (?? ??? sorry mate) last year in another thread here. Inside dimensions of tank are 6' x 3' x 3', the side viewing window apx 48" x 20"--finally sourced some free laminated glass for it a few weeks back, tried to cut it but break went everywhere, probably caused by old glass and very hot day - 39 -40C. Have since found it would not have been thick enough anyway, so I'm now looking for some 8-9mm plate glass - it will hold 600 litres of water (230 gal). Will have a 'speedo' in tank, not sure how much water a 55lb motor will push but confident it will be enough, as a smaller motor (40Lb) will get my 14' 6" boat to about 10Kph (6mph). ----Weight 600 Kg or .6 of a ton, so will have to be pretty permanent, wherever I put it . To do - "Baffles", "Corner Cowling", "Divider" --ah well it's only time, it's probably taken me 8 months to get this far. Pete

Kris--I have a couple of Iwata's, but none of above-- I have been using 'Spamax' for a couple of years (.35 and .5mm OR .7mm) , check them out here 'Luckymodel.com' - @ $74 ea , pretty good for the price (with hand grip and small / large pots etc), these would not be much good for really fine painting though. Pete

I posted some of these pictures years ago but AGAIN, I could not find them on here- so I rifled through my picture files and here is another way, works O.K . The gauge can be made from Polycarbonate or PVC sheet (brass is best)- For accuracy the thickness of the eye gauge should be close to the thickness of bib slot - The bib slot should be 'square' and at r/angles to blank length. See also- http://www.lurelovers/forum/some-tools-i-found-add-yours_topic6863.html I now use a drill press and drill a small hole through the blank as discussed in above post (Bob's I think). Pete

Gee Bob I thought we were the only people on the planet that paid $25-$30 for a plastic Jap lure , very surprised. Pete

Here are some you may not have see, it's amazing how varied the wire/ ballast arrangements are. http://www.lurelovers.com/forum/rare-aussie-lures-expos-what-lies-beneath_topic954.html Pete

Nice Dieter - thank you for your time, WOW all 46 min-great video. I suspect that timber you used is 'Meranti', probably from Indonesia or Phillipines, we see a lot of it around here. http://www.daff.qld.gov.au/forestry/using-wood-and-its-benefits/wood-properties-of-timber-trees/meranti Usually the whiter it is, the lighter it is. Pete

Jo---Dave is having some large computer issues (in Indonesia !!)----stand by, he WILL be back. Pete

Paul HAS done an excellent job here Dieter, thanks for posting it-- It really shows the possibility of video compared to photographs. Pete

I am assuming this is what you are talking about and not the plate style tie that connects to the lure body !!!!!!!! Here is the patent- I think he even explains how it all works: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6578313.pdf

Great 'tute' Ed and soooooooo easy to understand-- Thanks for posting, I DO appreciate how much work there is in photographing and putting together one of these. Pete

We are a pretty lazy lot over here and have been using "Omega clips" on Murray Cod and Barramundi lures for many many years - never used/made them myself as I think they reduce the potential depth of a lure--(just a hunch). I reckon about 80% of any lures made here would have this style of tow point (or a variation)--I will do a search around here and post a few pictures of local makers lures, some lures with these clips have massive lips. Not up on why they use this 'Omega clip' tow point other than the "self tuning", also why it works????? BUT I think with the clip being able to tilt away from the downside of an 'off centre' planning lip (clips usually has about 5 degrees play either way), it would counteract any tendency of the lip to roll and pulls/steers it back on line--- the least line of resistance ??. Pete

Dieter-- No surprises here, I have a few of these 'banana's' but don't chase cod so have never made one- 'Flatfish and Quickfish' are legendary here too, great Brown trout catchers. Pete

Phew Dieter, I just went through that thread, great info and again it highlighted your tenacious dedication to the physics of LURE BUILDING--------- http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/13043-new-banana-lure/?hl=%2Bbanana+%2Blures -great work. Thanks ----Pete

Some more hints Ardentangler -- "Peter Newell - how to roll your own" -- http://www.lurelovers.com/forum/peter-newell-lures-how-to-roll-your-own_topic1024.html Pete

Thanks Dieter, great idea with the 'staple' type of hanger, this must be super strong compared to screw eyes. Thanks again for posting this. Pete

Really sorry to hear about your dog Mark, we certainly do get attached to them--- Make the most of the corks mate, here it's hard to find one anymore, in the past 5 years most wines have gone to screw caps, corks are just about obsolete. Pete

I never noticed that Dieter, I know a lot of home builders use S/ steel pins in them but the proof is in the pudding here--a lot, if not all of these are 'commercial models' !!! Pete

AA and Dieter-- Here are some X-Rays of all sorts of Oz lures, might be helpful - certainly is to me. http://www.lurelovers.com/forum/rare-aussie-lures-expos-what-lies-beneath_topic954.html?KW=x%2Dray Pete

'Google Images' shows any number of ways to do it -- I first saw this being done on lures about 25 years ago here, so it has probably been used over there for about 50. Pete

B-J-R---From what I have seen here they use 'Pad Printing' to do scales, dark patches, or signatures etc. Pad Printing uses a very soft (in this case) silicone pad which picks up the image and then stamps onto object. With this process you can get very fine lines onto a curved or flat object. Pete