Jwags

My Solarez was to arriver yesterday...then I got a message from Fed-Ex that the package was damaged and being returned. I'm dying to try this stuff!!! jeremy

Brent, When I clicked on a link further up the page, it came up. What do I need to look for in a light? How do I know if one works and one doesn't? jeremy

Called my local Wally World and they don't have the Good Earth Lighting black light. They carry this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lights-of-America-24-Fluorescent-Blacklight-Fixture/16879944 Any idea if this will work? jeremy

I just saw this thread or I would have posted sooner. I wouldn't wax anything until you're done with the epoxying!!! jeremy

Mudhole has a file on their website that gives you the exact dimensions of MHX blanks at several places along the length of the blanks. It makes ordering winding checks a piece of cake! jeremy

X3. Spine has no functional value in rod building. When fishing, it's impossible to detect whether or not the rod you're using has been built on the spine. The only time you can detect the spine on a rod...is when you're testing to find the spine. It's the old kind of stuff that someone made up one day and said ,"Hey, we should build rods on the spine!" Reminds me of the old PA deerhunters who used to say "Once a spike, always a spike." Boy, they couldn't have been more wrong! jeremy

Any of the ceramics on the market today will work fine. Aluminum Oxide is about the cheapest and I use it on most builds. The only time I upgrade is if the customer wants to spend more or it I'm using the rod for a heavier application like musky fishing. I usually step up to Alconite for muskies. jeremy

That's a great way to do a repair but you need to make sure that the oversleeve piece is made from fiberglass. If you try to oversleeve with another piece from a graphite rod, it will shear right above the repair when it's under heavy load. You'll also need to make sure that the sleeve runs 1" past the break on each side it you are making the repair near the tip of the rod. If it's near the butt, you need to make it longer. Like Musky Glenn said, when you're finished, just wrap the oversleeve tightly with thread and give it a coat of epoxy. jeremy

I do twist the wire so the epoxy has more to hold onto but I'm not sure that's necessary. Ever try to knock out a lip that's been installed properly with just epoxy? I've pounded on some with a hammer just to see what they can take- they won't move! Adding the wire in the lip that is also epoxied in will hold even better. In my opinion, lips that are pinned are extremely durable but probably not necessary (I still do it anyway). Most musky lures are built WAY overkill. That being said, it's obviously better (IMO) to build lures to be extra durable so you have less to worry about. jeremy

Zach and I build our musky baits in much the same way. I use 1.5" .092" screw eyes for the hook hangers and line ties on shallow diving lures. On deep running lures, like the one pictured, I run my wire back into the bait about 2" and epoxy it and the lip in place. Depending on the lure, I may also anchor the diving lip in with two .062" stainless pins. jeremy

Shoot me an email, I may be able to help you out: jer@tuscaroratackle.com jeremy

Check out www.mudhole.com. They carry Lamiglass blanks. Not sure who Guide Rod is...never heard of them. jeremy

I'd take it back to Gander and see if they'll exchange it for you. If not, get a small syringe like the kind used to give babies and toddlers liquid medicine. Buy some Loctite 60 minute epoxy- anything with a short cure time will freeze up in the syringe. Drill two holes in the reel seat, one at each end in front of the hood so that the reel foot will cover them when you're done. DO NOT DRILL INTO YOUR ROD BLANK!!!! Make sure you just drill through the seat. Mix your epoxy and fill the syringe. Squirt the epoxy through the holes. You may have to shoot some in both ends, it depends on what kind of arbor that was used when the rod was built. When you get the space filled, align the reel seat and lay the rod so that the holes are pointing straight up. Allow to sit for at least 12 hours and then go fishing! jeremy

Very true! jeremy

My experience has actually been quite different. I keep my basement at a constant 68-70 degrees. It can be as dry as 10% humidity in winter and as wet at 95% humidity when it floods due to rain. I've never noticed the slightest difference in drying time of any of the epoxies that I use no matter what the humidity. I'm not trying to start an argument, it seems that alot of guys just want to argue these days on forums. It's not that important to me to be 'right'. I'm just stating my experience with epoxy and humidity. For further reading check out this: http://rodbuilding.org/search.php?2,search=humidity,author=,page=1,match_type=ALL,match_dates=30,match_forum=ALL,match_threads=0 jeremy