Jwags

My Solarez was to arriver yesterday...then I got a message from Fed-Ex that the package was damaged and being returned. I'm dying to try this stuff!!! jeremy

Brent, When I clicked on a link further up the page, it came up. What do I need to look for in a light? How do I know if one works and one doesn't? jeremy

Called my local Wally World and they don't have the Good Earth Lighting black light. They carry this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lights-of-America-24-Fluorescent-Blacklight-Fixture/16879944 Any idea if this will work? jeremy

I just saw this thread or I would have posted sooner. I wouldn't wax anything until you're done with the epoxying!!! jeremy

Mudhole has a file on their website that gives you the exact dimensions of MHX blanks at several places along the length of the blanks. It makes ordering winding checks a piece of cake! jeremy

X3. Spine has no functional value in rod building. When fishing, it's impossible to detect whether or not the rod you're using has been built on the spine. The only time you can detect the spine on a rod...is when you're testing to find the spine. It's the old kind of stuff that someone made up one day and said ,"Hey, we should build rods on the spine!" Reminds me of the old PA deerhunters who used to say "Once a spike, always a spike." Boy, they couldn't have been more wrong! jeremy

Any of the ceramics on the market today will work fine. Aluminum Oxide is about the cheapest and I use it on most builds. The only time I upgrade is if the customer wants to spend more or it I'm using the rod for a heavier application like musky fishing. I usually step up to Alconite for muskies. jeremy

That's a great way to do a repair but you need to make sure that the oversleeve piece is made from fiberglass. If you try to oversleeve with another piece from a graphite rod, it will shear right above the repair when it's under heavy load. You'll also need to make sure that the sleeve runs 1" past the break on each side it you are making the repair near the tip of the rod. If it's near the butt, you need to make it longer. Like Musky Glenn said, when you're finished, just wrap the oversleeve tightly with thread and give it a coat of epoxy. jeremy

I do twist the wire so the epoxy has more to hold onto but I'm not sure that's necessary. Ever try to knock out a lip that's been installed properly with just epoxy? I've pounded on some with a hammer just to see what they can take- they won't move! Adding the wire in the lip that is also epoxied in will hold even better. In my opinion, lips that are pinned are extremely durable but probably not necessary (I still do it anyway). Most musky lures are built WAY overkill. That being said, it's obviously better (IMO) to build lures to be extra durable so you have less to worry about. jeremy

Zach and I build our musky baits in much the same way. I use 1.5" .092" screw eyes for the hook hangers and line ties on shallow diving lures. On deep running lures, like the one pictured, I run my wire back into the bait about 2" and epoxy it and the lip in place. Depending on the lure, I may also anchor the diving lip in with two .062" stainless pins. jeremy

Shoot me an email, I may be able to help you out: jer@tuscaroratackle.com jeremy

Check out www.mudhole.com. They carry Lamiglass blanks. Not sure who Guide Rod is...never heard of them. jeremy

I'd take it back to Gander and see if they'll exchange it for you. If not, get a small syringe like the kind used to give babies and toddlers liquid medicine. Buy some Loctite 60 minute epoxy- anything with a short cure time will freeze up in the syringe. Drill two holes in the reel seat, one at each end in front of the hood so that the reel foot will cover them when you're done. DO NOT DRILL INTO YOUR ROD BLANK!!!! Make sure you just drill through the seat. Mix your epoxy and fill the syringe. Squirt the epoxy through the holes. You may have to shoot some in both ends, it depends on what kind of arbor that was used when the rod was built. When you get the space filled, align the reel seat and lay the rod so that the holes are pointing straight up. Allow to sit for at least 12 hours and then go fishing! jeremy

Very true! jeremy

My experience has actually been quite different. I keep my basement at a constant 68-70 degrees. It can be as dry as 10% humidity in winter and as wet at 95% humidity when it floods due to rain. I've never noticed the slightest difference in drying time of any of the epoxies that I use no matter what the humidity. I'm not trying to start an argument, it seems that alot of guys just want to argue these days on forums. It's not that important to me to be 'right'. I'm just stating my experience with epoxy and humidity. For further reading check out this: http://rodbuilding.org/search.php?2,search=humidity,author=,page=1,match_type=ALL,match_dates=30,match_forum=ALL,match_threads=0 jeremy

For those of you that don't like the longer cure time of Etex, I've been using Diamond II from Bullard International. It's stays much clearer and it's a medium build so it will give you better coverage than Etex which is a light build. It cures much faster! jeremy

I'm pretty sure humidity has no effect on epoxy curing. Epoxies are heat cured, not humidity cured. Stuff like lumiseal and Permagloss that are urethanes are sensitive to humidity. The greater the humidity, the faster they cure. Many rod builders like to apply epoxy on rainy days because it knocks the dust down. Personally I've seen no affect from humidity on the drying times of my lures or rods. jeremy

I'm with Matt, I use single foots on everything, even my musky rods. If you don't use a leader, you can go much smaller than a 6 but if you are tying on a leader, you may only be able to go to a 5 or so for the single foot guides, it just depends on the line you are using. My best advice for you on your first 3 guides is this: mount your grips on the rod and then mount your reel and run the line through your first guide. Tape the guide in place and make adjustments to it and try different sizes to see what works. You need to make sure that your line will not cut your thumb if you hold the foregrip when fighting a fish. Too low of a butt guide will allow the line to rest on your thumb and it will cut you badly if you have a big fish make a powerful run. If you never use the foregrip then you don't have to worry all of this. For the bumper guide, I personally use a single foot but it is recommended that you use a small double foot for durability. You can bend the guide feet to make it sit closer to the blank. Using double foot guides for your first 3 won't add any noticeable weight. For my LGM102XH, my guide train is double foot 20(for height), single foot 6 (bumper), double foot 10, and single foot 6's to the tip. It is super light and casts very well. I've noticed that I hardly ever use the foregrip so on my next rod I'm going to drop down to a smaller butt guide like Matt does. jeremy

Keep us posted on your progress! jeremy

Go ahead and build your frog rod. Might as well build what you want to fish with. I would stay away from the SiC guides, they are overkill. Go for the aluminum oxide guides that Fuji makes, they are cheap and will hold up to braid no problem. Building a rod isn't rocket science, but you need to do your homework and practice your wrapping skills. For your first rod I would recommend using C or D thread, it's much easier to use than A. Shoot me an email to jer@tuscaroratackle.com, I'd be happy to help with any questions you may have. jeremy

Great job on the video, it gave me a good laugh. I like your sense of humor! jeremy

I've used both on my rod builds but I prefer epoxy. It's really a matter of personal preference. I would advise you to try some epoxy, both high build and light build and see what you like best. You may end up sticking with varnish. Have you tried permagloss? I don't find epoxy complex to use, but there are rules you must follow. The important thing with epoxy is to mix it and apply it and then leave it alone. I use Diamond II from Bullard International and it's some great stuff. It's considered a medium build epoxy and it's super clear and levels very well. jeremy

@Fatfingers Like all epoxies, it will yellow over time. But I can definitely tell you that it won't yellow near as quickly as Etex. I've seen white rods that are years old that have Diamond II on them and they are still perfectly white. It does not have UV inhibitors in it. @CedarLakeMusky I now use about 2/3's as many coats with Diamond II as I used with Etex. It was so frustrating for me to put lures on the drying wheel and end up with dust spots on them when I checked them hours later- that doesn't happen to me anymore with Diamond II. I was pretty happy with Etex's durability but I've found Diamond II to be a bit better. jeremy

All of the above. I'm not sure that you can take any of those off of the list. jeremy

I started out using Etex but I've made the switch to Diamond II by Bullard International. It's manufactured as a rod building epoxy for thread wraps but it does wonderfully on lures. I hated having to put lots of coats of Etex on (it's a light build) and I was also frustrated by the amount of dust that Etex seems to attract. Diamond II is a medium build so it's just slightly thicker. You don't need as many coats and it levels like water. Don't think of Flex Coat high build- it's nothing like that. It get's rock hard and it's clarity is also superior to Etex. jeremy