Jwags
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Posts posted by Jwags
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Brent,
When I clicked on a link further up the page, it came up. What do I need to look for in a light? How do I know if one works and one doesn't?
jeremy
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Called my local Wally World and they don't have the Good Earth Lighting black light. They carry this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lights-of-America-24-Fluorescent-Blacklight-Fixture/16879944
Any idea if this will work?
jeremy
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I just saw this thread or I would have posted sooner. I wouldn't wax anything until you're done with the epoxying!!!
jeremy
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Mudhole has a file on their website that gives you the exact dimensions of MHX blanks at several places along the length of the blanks. It makes ordering winding checks a piece of cake!
jeremy
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X3. Spine has no functional value in rod building. When fishing, it's impossible to detect whether or not the rod you're using has been built on the spine. The only time you can detect the spine on a rod...is when you're testing to find the spine. It's the old kind of stuff that someone made up one day and said ,"Hey, we should build rods on the spine!"
Reminds me of the old PA deerhunters who used to say "Once a spike, always a spike." Boy, they couldn't have been more wrong!
jeremy
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Any of the ceramics on the market today will work fine. Aluminum Oxide is about the cheapest and I use it on most builds. The only time I upgrade is if the customer wants to spend more or it I'm using the rod for a heavier application like musky fishing. I usually step up to Alconite for muskies.
jeremy
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I have had great success with broken rods by taking a section of another junk rod and cutting a 2" section large enough to fit over the broken rod. By gluing this 2" section over the broken rod you can save a good rod. I use d2t for the glue to hold the splice together. I also wrap a 1/4" of each end of the 2" piece to keep it from splitting and cover the thread with d2t. It ends up looking kinda like a ferrule and takes away from the looks, but you, usually, won't be able to tell any difference in action, no matter how close to the end of the rod. Trial and error on cutting the 2" section for a semi snug fit, d2t is quite forgiving. Watch it to maintain straightness. Musky Glenn
That's a great way to do a repair but you need to make sure that the oversleeve piece is made from fiberglass. If you try to oversleeve with another piece from a graphite rod, it will shear right above the repair when it's under heavy load. You'll also need to make sure that the sleeve runs 1" past the break on each side it you are making the repair near the tip of the rod. If it's near the butt, you need to make it longer. Like Musky Glenn said, when you're finished, just wrap the oversleeve tightly with thread and give it a coat of epoxy.
jeremy
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Thanks, the diving lips on these were anchored with pins. Do you twist the wire or anything, or does the epoxy just keep it from pulling out?
I also found these videos from the other site... http://www.youtube.com/user/gthem1#p/a/u/2/LsRDGgXnWbU and http://www.youtube.com/user/gthem1#p/a/u/1/hJSdUvPqeTA
This process looks pretty easy also, if I could figure out how to make one of those boring rods.
I do twist the wire so the epoxy has more to hold onto but I'm not sure that's necessary. Ever try to knock out a lip that's been installed properly with just epoxy? I've pounded on some with a hammer just to see what they can take- they won't move! Adding the wire in the lip that is also epoxied in will hold even better. In my opinion, lips that are pinned are extremely durable but probably not necessary (I still do it anyway). Most musky lures are built WAY overkill. That being said, it's obviously better (IMO) to build lures to be extra durable so you have less to worry about.
jeremy
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I stopped by a local outfitter store today while traveling to a work location and noticed some musky crank baits that I had never seen before. They had what appeared to be Newman written down the back of them. I asked the guy if they were made local and he said no, they come from Penn. I do some woodworking have tinkered with some lures in the past, so I examined the lure over and could could see where the lure had been weighted. The diving bill had the wire coming up through it, but the hooks appeared to be on screw eyes and not through wire. I asked the guy what the bait was made of and he said balsa. I tried finding some info on these online but not much out there. They appear to be similar to a tuff shad. they look similar to these, These are Baker Baits. They are made from cedar, which makes me wonder if the newman ones are also.
How do you do the line ties like this?
Are they twisted and epoxied in? If not thur wire then how does this hold up to muskies.
I would like to learn to make my own cranks for my use, I am not trying to steal or expsose any lure making secrets, If this is one, I would be asking the same questions if I was purchasing one of these.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Zach and I build our musky baits in much the same way. I use 1.5" .092" screw eyes for the hook hangers and line ties on shallow diving lures. On deep running lures, like the one pictured, I run my wire back into the bait about 2" and epoxy it and the lip in place. Depending on the lure, I may also anchor the diving lip in with two .062" stainless pins.
jeremy
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Shoot me an email, I may be able to help you out: jer@tuscaroratackle.com
jeremy
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I'm looking for a source for 12 ft. rod blanks fiberglass , Lumiglass would be great . I have been out of touch with rod building so long I have no Idea where to get the blanks and supplies needed . Rumor has it that Guide Rod is going out of business . Does anyone know if this is true. I would appreciate any and all feed back .
Check out www.mudhole.com. They carry Lamiglass blanks. Not sure who Guide Rod is...never heard of them.
jeremy
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So i have a favorite rod of mine, a gander mountain medium action spinning rod, where the reel seat has come a little bit loose and twists around the blank (or whatever it is supposed to be anchored to on the handle). This makes for pretty uncomfortable fishing as casting has the tendency to make the reel come out
I don't know a darn thing about rod building, so I don't know how reel seats are supposed to be attached anyways. Is this a repairable problem? Anyone know if I took it back into gander if they would fix it?
If I did not sufficiently describe my problem, let me know
Thanks!
I'd take it back to Gander and see if they'll exchange it for you. If not, get a small syringe like the kind used to give babies and toddlers liquid medicine. Buy some Loctite 60 minute epoxy- anything with a short cure time will freeze up in the syringe. Drill two holes in the reel seat, one at each end in front of the hood so that the reel foot will cover them when you're done. DO NOT DRILL INTO YOUR ROD BLANK!!!! Make sure you just drill through the seat. Mix your epoxy and fill the syringe. Squirt the epoxy through the holes. You may have to shoot some in both ends, it depends on what kind of arbor that was used when the rod was built. When you get the space filled, align the reel seat and lay the rod so that the holes are pointing straight up. Allow to sit for at least 12 hours and then go fishing!
jeremy
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No matter what folks say, not all epoxies are created equal.
Skeeter
Very true!
jeremy
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Ha Dave.... That would definitely be a classic!! JWAGS... Devcon is a resin based epoxy. It cures thru heat caused by the activator of the 2 part mixture. The lack of moisture causes the mixture to cure quicker. It will not flow out as well on a wheel. I am not saying that it is the only thing that causes pitting. It could be the paint as mentioned earlier or a bunch of other things. I only know what my experience with the stuff is. Trust me... humidity makes a difference.
Skeeter
My experience has actually been quite different. I keep my basement at a constant 68-70 degrees. It can be as dry as 10% humidity in winter and as wet at 95% humidity when it floods due to rain. I've never noticed the slightest difference in drying time of any of the epoxies that I use no matter what the humidity.
I'm not trying to start an argument, it seems that alot of guys just want to argue these days on forums. It's not that important to me to be 'right'. I'm just stating my experience with epoxy and humidity.
For further reading check out this: http://rodbuilding.org/search.php?2,search=humidity,author=,page=1,match_type=ALL,match_dates=30,match_forum=ALL,match_threads=0
jeremy
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For those of you that don't like the longer cure time of Etex, I've been using Diamond II from Bullard International. It's stays much clearer and it's a medium build so it will give you better coverage than Etex which is a light build. It cures much faster!
jeremy
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I'm pretty sure humidity has no effect on epoxy curing. Epoxies are heat cured, not humidity cured. Stuff like lumiseal and Permagloss that are urethanes are sensitive to humidity. The greater the humidity, the faster they cure. Many rod builders like to apply epoxy on rainy days because it knocks the dust down. Personally I've seen no affect from humidity on the drying times of my lures or rods.
jeremy
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I'm with Matt, I use single foots on everything, even my musky rods. If you don't use a leader, you can go much smaller than a 6 but if you are tying on a leader, you may only be able to go to a 5 or so for the single foot guides, it just depends on the line you are using.
My best advice for you on your first 3 guides is this: mount your grips on the rod and then mount your reel and run the line through your first guide. Tape the guide in place and make adjustments to it and try different sizes to see what works. You need to make sure that your line will not cut your thumb if you hold the foregrip when fighting a fish. Too low of a butt guide will allow the line to rest on your thumb and it will cut you badly if you have a big fish make a powerful run. If you never use the foregrip then you don't have to worry all of this.
For the bumper guide, I personally use a single foot but it is recommended that you use a small double foot for durability. You can bend the guide feet to make it sit closer to the blank. Using double foot guides for your first 3 won't add any noticeable weight.
For my LGM102XH, my guide train is double foot 20(for height), single foot 6 (bumper), double foot 10, and single foot 6's to the tip. It is super light and casts very well. I've noticed that I hardly ever use the foregrip so on my next rod I'm going to drop down to a smaller butt guide like Matt does.
jeremy
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Keep us posted on your progress!
jeremy
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Go ahead and build your frog rod. Might as well build what you want to fish with. I would stay away from the SiC guides, they are overkill. Go for the aluminum oxide guides that Fuji makes, they are cheap and will hold up to braid no problem. Building a rod isn't rocket science, but you need to do your homework and practice your wrapping skills. For your first rod I would recommend using C or D thread, it's much easier to use than A. Shoot me an email to jer@tuscaroratackle.com, I'd be happy to help with any questions you may have.
jeremy
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Great job on the video, it gave me a good laugh. I like your sense of humor!
jeremy
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Thanks for the response Bob. The varnish I'm using is advertised as varnish. Gudebrod rod varnish. Janns has rod dancer rod varnish that appears to be the same. I've been turned off by the idea of epoxy due to it's relative complexity. With rod varnish I can get a heavy build in two coats, water cleanup and it's like $1/oz. I tend to wonder if the epoxy is better, or just has a higher markup and therefore pushed by sellers more, hence my desire to learn from those who have experience with both products.
I've used both on my rod builds but I prefer epoxy. It's really a matter of personal preference. I would advise you to try some epoxy, both high build and light build and see what you like best. You may end up sticking with varnish. Have you tried permagloss?
I don't find epoxy complex to use, but there are rules you must follow. The important thing with epoxy is to mix it and apply it and then leave it alone. I use Diamond II from Bullard International and it's some great stuff. It's considered a medium build epoxy and it's super clear and levels very well.
jeremy
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@Fatfingers
Like all epoxies, it will yellow over time. But I can definitely tell you that it won't yellow near as quickly as Etex. I've seen white rods that are years old that have Diamond II on them and they are still perfectly white. It does not have UV inhibitors in it.
@CedarLakeMusky
I now use about 2/3's as many coats with Diamond II as I used with Etex. It was so frustrating for me to put lures on the drying wheel and end up with dust spots on them when I checked them hours later- that doesn't happen to me anymore with Diamond II. I was pretty happy with Etex's durability but I've found Diamond II to be a bit better.
jeremy
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I am curious on what your thoughts are in general about the actions of crankbaits.
What do you think are the key aspects of a good swimming crankbait.
Is it the following:
The shape and width of the lip?
The angle of the lip?
The thickness of the lip?
The placement of the line tie?
The shape of the body?
Is it the curve of the back?
The weighting inside of the body?
The bouancy of material for the bait?
The size of the hooks?
The placement of the hooks front to back?
"Rookie" you better not say "its the paint job"
John
All of the above. I'm not sure that you can take any of those off of the list.
jeremy
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I started out using Etex but I've made the switch to Diamond II by Bullard International. It's manufactured as a rod building epoxy for thread wraps but it does wonderfully on lures. I hated having to put lots of coats of Etex on (it's a light build) and I was also frustrated by the amount of dust that Etex seems to attract. Diamond II is a medium build so it's just slightly thicker. You don't need as many coats and it levels like water. Don't think of Flex Coat high build- it's nothing like that. It get's rock hard and it's clarity is also superior to Etex.
jeremy
Solarez Uv Top Coat
in Hard Baits
Posted
My Solarez was to arriver yesterday...then I got a message from Fed-Ex that the package was damaged and being returned. I'm dying to try this stuff!!!
jeremy